Should I buy a Henry .357 Single Shot?

Ugly Sauce said:
No offense, but that does not sound like a very good idea, the "feel" thing. Not to mention using a .357 rifle to develop loads for .38 Special revolvers, Might want to re-think. You DO have a chronograph, right?? Just work up from low velocity in the pistols, and stop at your desired velocity.

However, don't let that stop you from getting the rifle. I'd love to have one of the Henry single shots. I love single shots. As I already have a Rossi 94 in .357, I'd probably go with a .44Mag.

Anyhow, good luck. !!
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my desired velocity is how it feels. they are target/practice rounds. fun to shoot is my goal. testing them first in the rifle is an unecessary step, but - I think I'll feel better about putting a few through the rifle before putting them into a 17 oz. ultralight revolver.
 
film495 said:
my desired velocity is how it feels. they are target/practice rounds. fun to shoot is my goal. testing them first in the rifle is an unecessary step, but - I think I'll feel better about putting a few through the rifle before putting them into a 17 oz. ultralight revolver.
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Well, not to be mean or snarky, and I say this all with concern, but I really think "feel" will/could/might get you into the danger zone. A load that "feels" very mild in a rifle could still be excessive in a light revolver. Maybe not blow-up-the-gun excessive, but possibly loosen up the action. I don't think a sevenish pound rifle is a very good test bed for a 17 oz. pistol. Especially going with this feel-thing. (but again, get the rifle) One really can't feel velocity.

Again, why not just start low in the pistol, and work up? Why not get a chronograph???

I have a friend who was always into a "feel thing", and reloaded accordingly, which I always thought was crazy and made no sense to me. Here's one of his .38special revolvers. Again, just trying to help, don't hate me! :)
DSC07797.JPG
 
Ugly Sauce said:
Well, not to be mean or snarky, and I say this all with concern, but I really think "feel" will/could/might get you into the danger zone. A load that "feels" very mild in a rifle could still be excessive in a light revolver. Maybe not blow-up-the-gun excessive, but possibly loosen up the action. I don't think a sevenish pound rifle is a very good test bed for a 17 oz. pistol. Especially going with this feel-thing. (but again, get the rifle) One really can't feel velocity.

Again, why not just start low in the pistol, and work up? Why not get a chronograph???

I have a friend who was always into a "feel thing", and reloaded accordingly, which I always thought was crazy and made no sense to me. Here's one of his .38special revolvers. Again, just trying to help, don't hate me! :)
View attachment 1184117
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I can't help but think if he tested that load in a rifle, the rifle and pistol would most likely be fine. A chrono is on my list, but probably not for a while. Before I do any .357 loads designed for the rifle is my guess. but, factory rounds are fine just to get a feel for it. Probably years from now at best is my guess.
 
I am sticking with my recommendation to stick with reloading manual data to avoid what is shown in post #29. "Feel" doesn't do it for reloading. Since you seem bound and determined to do it that way though here is hoping you destroy no guns and shed no blood with your experimentations.

Edited to add: Some years ago I bought a Rossi 92 in 357 and went looking in very old to almost new reloading manuals for 357 rifle reloading data. I found it in each manual and It was exactly the same as for handguns in each and every one.
 
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I wanted a 350 legend single-shot for deer hunting last year.
I wanted a Henry but they were unavailable every where I looked so I ended up with a Traditions Outfitter single-shot.

I did buy a Ruger 77 in 357mag a few years ago and my 11 year old grandson was shooting a 24 inch steel target at 385 yards and hitting it a one hundred percent of the time.
 
doubleh said:
I am sticking with my recommendation to stick with reloading manual data to avoid what is shown in post #29. "Feel" doesn't do it for reloading. Since you seem bound and determined to do it that way though here is hoping you destroy no guns and shed no blood with your experimentations.

Edited to add: Some years ago I bought a Rossi 92 in 357 and went looking in very old to almost new reloading manuals for 357 rifle reloading data. I found it in each manual and It was exactly the same as for handguns in each and every one.
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you seem to making assumptions that are not correct. I've loaded the same cartrdige with the same published data a few times before. Adjusting it by feel or recoil, to shoot in various firearms, for fun, is fine unless someone has an actual safety reason this is not totally fine, but it is totally fine I already know that. I might go up or down a few tenths of a grain based on published charge ranges, to taylor the round for use in an Ultralight revolver or a heavier K frame, to get the best feel when shooting as a fun hobby, cause it is fun. you seem to have jumped to the idea that I'm filling cases with powder by "feel" which would be IMHO insanity and asking to get hurt, which nobody is talking about.
 
For 38 Sp, loading can be real simple and real safe. Most folks know this, but lets just go over the basics.

There is tons of data out there that has been pressure tested to be safe.

If any of your guns might be considered "low margin" for strength or durability, do not push things to the max listed charge unless your components are real close to an exact match for the data you want to use (exact bullet & powder, same general primer type). If you want a serious self defense load, start by picking the right bullet. Select one specifically marketed as appropriate for this application. Ask for help if needed. Find exact data for this bullet and pick a powder that is is both good for published velocities and is available. Figure it all out before buying anything.

The vast majority of 38 Sp reloads are not fired in self defense. For this use, less than the max listed charge will do just fine. Loading to somewhere in the "published range" based on "feel" is just fine and dandy.

For the really small / light guns, custom "low recoil" loads are worth considering. Light bullets, fast powders and a charge that is just good enough for around 650 fps from a 4" revolver are what I use for my "low recoil" loads.

If you want to use a bullet that does not have exact data for it, use data for something as close as you can get. It is best to use data that has a seating depth at least a deep as you want to use. The 38 SP is pretty forgiving because of all of the free space in a typical load. However, unless you really know what you are doing, it is better to ask for help if you are not sure about this detail.

Check, double check and possibly even triple check that you are measuring out the correct charge and that you do not have a double charge.

Follow the above, and there is no real need to "test" your loads in anything other than the guns you want to use.

Get a rifle if you want one. Shooting a 357 rifle with mild loads can be very fun. However, do not expect to "feel" any difference between a normal 38 and a load that is over proof pressure for the 38. In a Henry lever gun, my mid range 357s loaded with fast powder are very mild shooting.
 
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The more I think about it, I'd really like to have one in .30-30 to play with some spitzers.


Ugly Sauce said:
Well, not to be mean or snarky, and I say this all with concern, but I really think "feel" will/could/might get you into the danger zone. A load that "feels" very mild in a rifle could still be excessive in a light revolver.
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I agree 100%. The rifle barrel length and weight really tame the recoil and blast of the revolver magnums. First time I shot my Marlin .44, I thought something was wrong with it. I don't know how in the wide world of sports you'd get any sort of "feel" of how hot/mild a load was going from rifle to pistol.

To the OP, the problem with "feel" is that pressure signs in a straightwall revolver cartridge, especially used in a single shot rifle with really thick chamber walls, is that you could easily be way over safe pressure limits and have no idea what was going on. I'm all for hot-rodding where applicable but not sure this is the way to go about it.
 
CraigC said:
The more I think about it, I'd really like to have one in .30-30 to play with some spitzers.



I agree 100%. The rifle barrel length and weight really tame the recoil and blast of the revolver magnums. First time I shot my Marlin .44, I thought something was wrong with it. I don't know how in the wide world of sports you'd get any sort of "feel" of how hot/mild a load was going from rifle to pistol.

To the OP, the problem with "feel" is that pressure signs in a straightwall revolver cartridge, especially used in a single shot rifle with really thick chamber walls, is that you could easily be way over safe pressure limits and have no idea what was going on. I'm all for hot-rodding where applicable but not sure this is the way to go about it.
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nobody is hot-rodding. It is just a field test, fire a few out of a box through the rifle before the pistol. that's it. Observe by feel if anything seems off, that's it.
 
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film495 said:
nobody is not-rodding. It is just a field test, fire a few out of a box through the rifle before the pistol. that's it. Observe by feel if anything seems off, that's it.
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Did you snot rod ?
 
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