Sig people, I need a trigger question answered

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I'm looking into a p229 classic carry, and it looks like it has a similar trigger shape to the M11-a1. My problem is that my trigger finger gets pinched between the trigger and the rear of the guard when I shoot the M11-a1...and while the trigger on the classic carry LOOKS similar, I can't tell for sure (I haven't physically held the CC version yet).

My real question is, could I purchase a trigger similar in shape to a standard p229 (one a little "thicker") to replace the original trigger? To muddy the waters, I'm not sure if they make a wider trigger compatible to the SRT (Short Reset Trigger) trigger on the CC, or if it would be compatible with a Short Reach Trigger system (unfortunately, I'm unsure if the p229CC offers this or not).

My next step is to simply call Sig's customer service, but I've always had good luck picking the brains of the fine people on THR. Thanks for whatever info you can pass my way.
 
My real question is, could I purchase a trigger similar in shape to a standard p229 (one a little "thicker") to replace the original trigger? To muddy the waters, I'm not sure if they make a wider trigger compatible to the SRT (Short Reset Trigger) trigger on the CC, or if it would be compatible with a Short Reach Trigger system (unfortunately, I'm unsure if the p229CC offers this or not).
The regular trigger is a drop-in replacement for the Short Reach trigger...they do not make a wider trigger.

I gather you are referring to the P229 Classic Carry that was a special TALO edition. It does not come with the SRT (Short Reset Trigger) parts installed...however the SRT is compatible with either the regular trigger or the Short Reach one. The largest visual difference is the return to the half-height cocking serrations.

One thing to be aware of is that the frame is of the original 9mm 229 (pre-dash) dimensions and will only accept pre-dash 9mm 229, 228 and M11 magazines. The current production 229-1 or M11-A1 magazines will not fit
 
The Grayguns P-SAIT trigger will provide a little shorter trigger reach than the standard P series trigger, but not as short as the SIG "short" or "reduced reach" trigger that comes on the M11-A1. It has a nicer contour than the stock P series trigger and a much nicer contour than the SIG short trigger. And it has an over-travel stop adjustment screw. It won't pinch your finger like the short trigger and it works fine with the SRT sear and safety lever, as do both SIG triggers as was said.

The P-SAIT costs $39 at Grayguns. I have one on both of my P229s.
 
I checked out that trigger, and it looks like the answer! I've never had a Sig torn all the way down, but it doesn't seem impossible to install at home. Thank God for YouTube.
 
No, swapping the trigger on a DA/SA P-series SIG is not too difficult as long as you know the steps and are patient. If you have not already done so, check out Steve Jenkins' ("Ferrari Steve's") video on installation of a Grayguns P-SAIT trigger. This video shows installation in a P226 but the process is identical for a P229. The video also shows the difference between the SIG stock P trigger, the SIG "short" trigger, and the P-SAIT trigger visually, and covers adjustment of the over-travel stop screw on the P-SAIT trigger.



Pay particular attention to the alignment of the trigger pin notches that fit into the locking block. I have found that the trickiest part of the installation can be the removal and re-installation of the trigger bar, especially the latter. The clearance for the bar inside the frame is really tight. The bar won't go back in unless you have it oriented just so. Don't get frustrated with it and don't force anything. Just keep jiggling it around and trust that it will drop back in place, eventually.

Reinstalling the locking block can be a little frustrating because the "wave spring" (that tensions the slide stop lever and the take-down lever) will want to fall out of the block before you get it back in, and the slide stop lever will want to walk inboard away from the left side of the frame and block it going back in, as happened in the video. Applying a bit of thick grease on the frame side of the take-down lever to temporarily "glue" it in place sometimes helps.
 
Greyguns P-SAIT is the way to go. Dropped one in my M11A1.
Make the short re-set feel even better with the overtravel adjustment.
 
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