Silly guestion about shotshell

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Officers'Wife

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I went to an auction yesterday and bought a "junk" box. Included in the junk was some (empty) 20 gauge shotshells that are all brass. If I had a certain unnamed idiot that shall remain my brother reload them would they be safe for Dad's ancient "J.C Higgins" break open shotgun or should I just put them on a shelf somewhere as curios?
 
I would feel safe reloading them. I would not feel safe having an idiot reload them for me.
Actually he is quite experienced and safe. He does the reloads for both my ancient 92 Win and the Enfield.

Item last: I'm the only one allowed to call my brother an idiot.

Just out of curiosity, will the ends be crimped to keep everything together? I don't want to look completely ignorant when I give the things to him. Are all brass shot shells common? This is the first time I've seen any and quite frankly if not for the head stamp wouldn't have known what they were.
 
Do some research on reloading brass shot shells. Not really any more difficult than plastic shell, but different. It takes some different internal components.

I've dabbled with loading brass .410 shells over the years.

As far as closing then end, generally, the is an over shot wad that is glued and/or crimped in place.
 
it is againt the law to reload for some one else, do what you what. just saying. the liabilty issue would keep me from doing it. eastbank.
 
It is against the law to "reload to sell" to others. You can reload for others if you wish. They can buy the components, or pay you for the components (No profit) or you can give them the reloads for free. You just cannot reload to sell to others.
 
To manufacture and sell ammunition for profit, you need a Type 6 FFL, $150/3 yrs.
18USC 922(a)(i) and 923(a), 27 CFR 478.41
 
Not if Dad's ancient "J.C Higgins" break open shotgun is a 12 gauge. HAHAHA
Look inside 'em for any green colouring. Then do a net search for loading brass shot shells. Although, like RC says, it's probably not worth it for just a few of 'em.
"...I'm the only one allowed to call my brother an idiot...." I call my brother an idiot all the time. So there. snicker.
 
Brass shells?
How many do you have?

Unless its quite a few, I doubt it would be worth the expense of buying the proper card wads to load then.

You can get the wads here:
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Card-Filler-Wads/departments/211/

Manual
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Reloading-Brass-Shotshells-manual-VanDenburg/productinfo/00MBRASS/

rc
That's essentially what he told me. When I left he was polishing the things with a Dremel buffer and jeweler's rouge. I get the feeling I won't get them back.

And for the wag who's name I won't mention... The shotgun in question is a .22 on the top barrel and a 20 gauge with a full choke on the bottom. I'm told back in the day when Indiana had game wardens rather than Conservation Officers Dad carried it on the combine when picking corn as it is equally effective for rabbit as it is for pheasant.
 
So, what you have is a combo gun. I have one as well but 20 gauge on the top and 243 Winchester on the bottom. I've used it to slay coyotes, squirrels, a pidgeon, etc. Very handi.
 
safe for Dad's ancient "J.C Higgins" break open shotgun
It isn't that old if it says J.C Higgins on it.
And for sure isn't ancient.

Sounds like what you have is a Sears & Roebuck store brand Savage Model 24 made for Sears.
They were made from 1950, to 1965.

It should be perfectly safe with any modern 20 ga shells you chose to shoot in it.

Look on the barrel for 2 3/4" or 3" chamber length.

rc
 
It isn't that old if it says J.C Higgins on it.
And for sure isn't ancient.

Sounds like what you have is a Sears & Roebuck store brand Savage Model 24 made for Sears.
They were made from 1950, to 1965.

It should be perfectly safe with any modern 20 ga shells you chose to shoot in it.

Look on the barrel for 2 3/4" or 3" chamber length.

rc

One person's modern is another's antique. Since I tend to think of anything before 1986 to be ancient and my Dad acquired the weapon when he was in high school it's only out of respect to the honored elders on the board that I don't label it prehistoric.

That said, we have a highly refined system around here. I take my empties to my brother, he asks me which weapon I will be using it in and he loads them accordingly. Every so often he will casually mention he is low on such and such a powder, primer or ball and I give hubby the checkbook and a shopping list. The brass was something new to me and I didn't know if it would be a waste of his time for me to take them over to him. Considering he is trying to talk hubby into building a presentation case for the things I would say they were a good investment even not being reloaded. As I mentioned before, I had never seen shotshells that were all brass before and didn't want to look like a complete tulala when I took them to him.
 
The empty brass shotshells are currently sold by Magtech. I have about 300 in .410 and 100 in 12 GA. I use them to ID my buckshot hunting loads but most CAS shooters use them for period looking rounds along with their costumes. They do tend to last a looong time compared to plastic hulls. Good find BTW.:)
 
One person's modern is another's antique. Since I tend to think of anything before 1986 to be ancient and my Dad acquired the weapon when he was in high school it's only out of respect to the honored elders on the board that I don't label it prehistoric.

Nicely said. Using your criteria, all my shotguns are "ancient", and I routinely shoot one that is 5 years older than I am, so even I could consider it "prehistoric", at least to my history on this orbiting rock. :D I'm 60, BTW.

Question about the all-brass shotshells: I reload for pistol and rifle, but not shotguns (yet). What could be considered an average number of reloadings from a brass shell before it's no longer suitable? I assume the same things (split cases, thinned-out bases, loose primer pockets, etc.) happen with them like they do centerfire rifle cases, but the stress dynamics are maybe a bit different?
 
I think its cool you found some all brass shotshells! And a plus that your brother can do a reload for you.
Personally, I would keep them as collectables.
Mark

ps: We understand. Sisters have "dibbs" on how brothers are addressed! :D
 
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I have some .410 that have 25+ reloads on them with no problems. After every 5-7 loadings you have to FL size the brass ( I use a honed out 444 Marlin sizing die) or it becomes sticky. I do not crimp the overshot cards in, I use Duco cement to seal them as this stresses the brass less. They also use regular large pistol primers not shotgun type primers and the loads are more like handgun rounds pressure wise rather than high power rifle.
 
There is a roll crimper, that chucks to a drill press
or you can try to find one of the Lyman dinosaurs, that clamps on the bench...
for 'authentic' you'll need some WaterGlass, a Cellulose type glue

Cool proposition, just it takes a bit, there are YouTube step by step instructionals
I guess Brass Shells are popular among some types of Cowboy Action Shooters.
 
I think its cool you found some all brass shotshells! And a plus that your brother can do a reload for you.
Personally, I would keep them as collectables.
Mark

ps: We understand. Sisters have "dibbs" on how brothers are addressed! :D
We decided the added expense of the components wouldn't make loading 14 rounds worthwhile. My sis in law tells me he has spent most of the day hand polishing the things. I have a sick feeling at least one will end up in a presentation case starting with one of my 32-20 brass and going upward to the 20 gauge or possibly one of Dad's 50 BMG.
 
Your right, trying to remember what the celluloid glue is
remember it was used because it, um... burns well?
but is kinda dangerous because it... um... burns well
 
The old Duco model airplane cement was Nitrocellulose glue.

Very flammable, and make you high with a splitting headache breathing too much of it!

rc
 
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