Silver Brass For .30-30 ?

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Cullodain

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Dec 25, 2013
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1st Random Question:
Is anyone familiar with silver brass for reloading .30-30? I'm a total noob and haven't seen any advertised. Is it possible to buy silver brass for another caliber and then cut it down to fit .30-30? I should probably ask if it's possible to do that for ANY brass to fit .30-30... I know wildcatters seem to do all sorts of crazy stuff with brass/bullets/powder/etc.

2nd Random Question:
What was so special about the Winchester "silver tip" 170gr rounds produced 10 years ago that are now impossible to find? Were they so popular that Winchester quit making them so they could sell other stuff as well? I can't seem to find it online or in any of the stores and online searches for "Winchester Grizzly Silvertip" brings up all sorts of useless (to me) pictures and info; nothing like what I'm after although I'd swear that's what was on the box a few years back.

Anywho, thanks for entertaining a noob's goofy questions.:confused:
 
I'm sure someone at some time made nickel plated 30-30 Brass. I don't remember seeing any.
Nickel plated brass in a necked cartridge will reduce the cartridge case lifespan.
 
Welcome to the forum.

I've had nickel plated .30-30 brass in the past, and may still have some.

As for the Winchester Silver Tip rifle ammunition, it was good stuff, but expensive to make. It required a couple of extra steps in the bullet making process. With new technology, they are able to attain the same level of performance with bullets that are easier to make.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Nickel brass is just plated. No problem, I think it splits faster but that is just me. It will work just fine. I use it in certain calibers, like 357 magnum just so it is easily identifiable from my 38 Special. Yes, you can make 30/30 brass from other calibers, .32 Special and .25/35 would be the ones that comes to mind. Just run them through a .30/30 FL sizing die, trim and cut the necks if they are too thick.
 
It's probably more of a personal preference thing, but I really like the nickel plated brass. I like the way it shoots, goes through the dies, and doesn't ever tarnish, great stuff.

I remember using those Silver Tips, before I started reloading I think. I think it's a pretty good bullet, and I do believe it's still in production for various calibers, including 30-30.

GS
 
PLmitch, I guess I see more split necks on my .357 magnum nickel brass thinking that it was the nickel, might be the 20 grains of H110 that is making em split now that I think about it.
 
So, since everybody was so great, let me give y'all a little more background about how/why I suddenly showed up on your reloading board. I grew up on a farm in the midlands of SC and grew up deer/duck/dove hunting. The only reloading we ever did was during long summer nights my dad would pull out the old MEC Progressive (non-auto) and we'd spend hours reloading AA 20ga hulls to take to the dove field the following Fall. It was sort of like a right of passage when Dad would let my older brother and I do our first box by ourselves and then, later, let us experiment (by the book, of course) with heavier charges or different size shot. But anytime one of us asked about reloading bullets for the family .243 Winchester, my dad would say "No way! Too complicated!" and that was that. After graduating high school I joined the Army and spent the next 11 years all over the world, mostly in the middle east or central america. On those rare occasions when I happened to be home on Leave during deer season, I'd borrow the .243 and head out to the woods. After 11 years in the Army, I got out and joined the US Coast Guard for 6 years. My first two years were down in Key West, FL...can't hunt Key Deer and a 15 hour drive was a little much just to go deer hunting. Then I spent a year back in the middle east and then I spent 3 years in south Georgia...barely 4 hours from home and not only that, but every other weekend I had a long weekend and plenty of time to go hunting (gas was still cheap). One day, I happened upon an inexpensive Winchester '94 AE that I liked and I picked it up new for next to nothing. That was in the Fall of 2005. I bought a box of Winchester Grizzly Silvertips at the local sporting goods store and several days later took off for the deer stand. Now, all those years of shooting Dad's .243 (Winchester Model 88--Midas grade stock, B&L 3-12X40 scope), I was used to excellent shot-placement inside 150 yards and satisfactory placement inside 200 to 250 (and not bad results at 300 yards on the range), but I was used to deer taking a few steps, sometimes a few hops and a leap or two, before finally collapsing. So imagine my surprise the first time I lined up those iron sights on that .30-30 at 100 yards on a 170 pound 8 point...and rolled him! One shot, one kill. Dead on arrival. DAMN! I was hooked!! Later that season I shot a 110 pound doe (on a doe-day) at 90 yards and cut her a flip...no hops, no leaps, no wondering if I'd have to test my tracking skills...just, blam! The following year, I shot two deer with the exact same results: one shot, one kill. The following year I had limited hunting opportunities because of job conflict and didn't shoot any. The year after that I got one. Then I had an opportunity to hunt somewhere with some long-distance shooting and I borrowed Dad's trusty .243 for another season. I moved again and in the moving process I left my .30-30 with a relative who, not knowing any better, moved all of my possessions to an outdoor storage barn...with a leak. My .30-30 went through a year and a half of wet/dry/wet/dry/wet/dry....lots of surface rust and the wood foreend got soft in one area. I rescued it as soon as I realized what had happened to it, but it sat in my gun rack for another year before I tackled the process of learning how to tear it all the way down, cleaning with a red-pad, 0000 steel wool, RemOil, and Hoppes #9. I got all the rust off but my rifle has some permanent scarring that will never go away. 90% of the bluing is gone and every time I touch it I have to coat it down before it goes back in the gun rack. And I love it more than ever. I've got 5 deer with it this year and all of them were right at the 100 yard mark (with one exception...a spike at 40 yards from a ground blind). Needless to say, that original box of 20 rounds of Grizzly Silvertips is just about gone and that's what led me to start looking for an alternative. I picked up a box of Federal 150gr flat tips and promptly missed the first 3 shots I took with them. That box went back on the shelf in the gun cabinet...I'll pull the bullets and dump the powder and start over. Which leads me to my next point: my cousin recently picked up a nice Dillon Precision progressive reloader from an estate sale that came with 10 or 12 dies/plates. He's offered to teach me to reload my own rounds if I'll buy the die/plate for .30-30. Is there any way to attempt to exactly-recreate that 170gr load that I love so much? Will that reloading data be in one of the reloading books or will I be able to find it on one of Winchester's websites?

Thanks again for all of the great replies.
 
That ammo was 170 grain not 150 grain I bet. Those "Silvertips" were a special blend of lead/aluminum/other alloy. ReloaderFred is correct There are better bullets by design out there now for your purposes. The Hornaday LeveRevolution ammo or for reloading, their Flex Tip bullets/Hodgdon LEVERolution propellant with the Hodgdon manual will net you a better round than what you already have IMHO. There are better bullets out there made by several others as well. Good for you wanting to learn to roll your own ammo. The key here is the heavier bullet works best at 100 YDS and that was what your sights were set for.:)

IMHO a 243 with a 100 grain bullet is just not the deer stopper (as in bang flop/DRT) that a big old 30-30 bullet is.
 
I reload for about a dozen different calibers, including 3 different calibers on a Dillon 650. In my opinion, the Dillon is one of the finest pieces of reloading equipment on the market -- IF you are going to reload a LOT of brass, and AFTER you get it adjusted and tweaked at each station.

What I'm leading up to is, reloading is a lot of fun, and I fully recommend you get into it, but I'm wondering if you shoot enough 30-30 to justify the cost of a change package for the Dillon. It sounds to me like you'd be just as well off with a single stage press and a decent electronic scale, which would be about the same price as the change package for the Dillon. You need a solid table to mount it on, with good lighting, and a good reference for loads (available online for free, based on bullet weight, caliber or powder type).
 
One other thought on reloading for the 30-30: my experience with that cartridge is that you need to check case length pretty regularly. The long shoulder on the cartridge allows the brass to stretch, and I found that I needed to trim it after 3-4 reloads. Of course with stretching comes the possibility of weakening, and I had some cases separate around the base. That's a real pain if you're trying for rapid follow-up shots and the separated case is left in the chamber.
 
I'll go backwards in reverse order:
@epoletna: I honestly don't have a clue how many times I'll reload these individual cases...I suppose it will depend on whether I enjoy reloading rifle/pistol brass as much as I enjoy reloading shotgun shells. =) I'm pretty sure my cousin bought the Dillon 650; I've only seen it once but it had lots of bells & whistles; there's not a doubt in my mind that it is WAY more machine than I actually *need*, but since he's got it already and he's willing to show me the ropes and allow me to use it whenever I want, I figure I may as well shell out the bucks for something that will help him out as well as myself. He's already got the stuff for .45ACP and I'll have use of that as well which will suit me just fine for running rounds through my Springfield xD-M.

@Frogo207: You're correct...my silvertips are 170gr and that's what I'll be trying to recreate. The rounds I had issue with were Federal 150gr. Yuck! I'll definitely be buying a box of Leverevolution 160's to see how they work in my particular rifle (I've heard that different rifles of the exact same calibre/model react differently to the Leverevolution rounds). Obviously, the first bulk bullets I buy will be 170gr in some tip-variety that promises similar performance to the aforementioned Grizzly Silvertip. As for powder, I don't have a clue. Hogdon is on my list to research as is IMO and Winchester.

Thanks again, guys.
 
Take those 150's out to the range and see where they are hitting. The point of impact at 100 yards might be the reason you missed, not the ammo. Try em before you give up. welcome to THR.
 
There could be a significant difference in point of impact between the 150 grain and 170 grain bullets, especially at the velocities the .30-30 shoots them. It may just be a matter of adjusting the rear sight to hit what you're aiming at.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
I know you like the Win Silvertip ammo and with good reason but like said above, there are very good bullets out there and you can build ammo that is just as effective. There are those who like a 150gr bullet in the 30-30 because they can generate more velocity but I feel a 170gr bullet is a better choice and has more punch. You will probably agree since all the Deer you shot with a 170gr bullet were anchored. IMO the good results you got from the Winchester ammo has more to do with the 170gr bullet than anything else but of course accuracy is a necessity.

Sierra makes a Pro-Hunter bullet in 170gr that's a good choice and the bullet I use in my 30-30 ammo meant for Deer.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/58...meter-170-grain-jacketed-flat-nose-box-of-100

The Hornady 170gr InerLock bullets meant for the 30-30 work very well too although I like the Sierra bullets a little better because they are more accurate in my rifle.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/41...r-308-diameter-170-grain-flat-nose-box-of-100

Speer Hot Core bullets work very well on thin skinned game like Deer too. They make a 170gr bullet meant for use in the 30-30.

Nosler makes a 170gr Partition bullet and Swift makes a 170gr A-Frame bullet for the 30-30 but IMO at almost 3X the price as the others for the Nosler bullet and over 4X the price for the Swift bullet they are just too much bullet for killing Deer.

There's always the Remington Core-Lokt bullet that will still do a good job on Deer even though it's older tech but no older than the Silvertips you like.

Of course the Hornady FTX bullet used in their Leverevolution bullet is supposed to be good but i have never shot a Deer with them I will recommend Hodgdon Leverevolution powder without a doubt because it does deliver higher velocities than other powders without sacrificing accuracy. That's a good combination IMO. I'm not saying the additional velocity is good just for the additional speed but because it can keep the bullet flatter out at distances past 100+ yards.
 
I'm a huge Dillon fan, owning 3 of their presses currently. However, they are probably the wrong tool on which to learn reloading. They are also the wrong tool on which to load a handful of hunting rounds. They are the right tool on which to load a large number of action match rounds.

The main reasons:

-Dillon powder measures work only so-so with stick powders. They work very well with ball powders. Stick powders are generally known to be more accurate than ball powder.

-High volume presses like the Dillon 650 are designed to be set up for one specification (charge weight, OAL length, etc) and then pumping out a LOT of rounds. The set-up is time consuming, so you won't want to mess with it, once you have it dialed in. Since you are reloading for a new rifle, you don't have a load worked up. Load workup involves fiddling with a bunch of variables to determine the best combination of components for your rifle.

You would be better served with a Lee Challenger press for $70, a Lee Collet die set, a scale, a Lee Perfect Powder Measure, and some other sundry tools while you work up a load. Then, when you've worked up a load for your rifle, set up the Dillon 650 and pump out a couple hundred rounds.

Or, since it doesn't sound like you shoot 100's of rounds per year, much less per week, just load up what you need on your single stage press.

What sort of reloading gear does your Dad use? Maybe borrow his, get a Lee Collet die in .30-30, and use his stuff while you figure out what you like.

Good luck!

-John
 
Again, nothing to say but "WoW!!!" Tons of great answers and great responses. First and foremost, I am a LOOOOONG way from being a true "shooter". I know what has worked for me in the past, and that's all I have to go by. Most of you guys (gals?) are so far out of my league of rank beginner that it isn't even funny. Everything that everyone made perfect sense except for the remark about the Nosler partitions...I saw them on several of the websites but couldn't/can't understand why they're so much more-expensive. I would've thought that with the "newness" and "revolutionary" characteristics of the Leverevolution bullets that they would be the priciest (sic?). My main goal, as originally stated, will be to re-create the 170gr silvertip round that I love so much that I can't find anymore (duh! obviously because it isn't made anymore).

@ReloaderFred: I think you hit the nail on the head and you were being overly-nice about it. I'm 99.9% sure that the 150gr Federals were hitting anywhere between 5" and 7" lower at 80 to 100 yards than the 170gr silvertips. I would have thought that from a 18' fixed ladder stand shooting slightly downhill that the rise/fall would have been negligible, but obviously that isn't the case. The 150's definitely have more velocity and therefore more felt-recoil. I did not and have not dialed in the 150's and I originally set up the rear sights for the 170's. Did I mention that I'm not a "true" shooter?

@ArchAngelCD: would you not agree that "punch" is more of what I'm after at the 80yd to 120yd range? My absolute MAX range for my shots on my farm are under 150yds (although I haven't taped off/lased that range). I just like that "good ole feeling" of lining up the shot and controlling my breathing long enough to get a good trigger squeeze without pushing or pulling with my index finger or without screwing my parallax 6-ways-from-Sunday with my breathing/heartbeat. Keep in mind that this year's hunting has been ALL ABOUT putting meat in the freezer (as well as learning how to make sausage of several varieties) with a little bit of QDMA Herd Management thrown in for good measure. I'm not shooting for trophies and have, in fact, left several of the nicer bucks for the hunt club that leases the majority of my property. That Sierra Pro-Hunter looks like it (thanks to you) has moved to the top of my priority list...

@JohnC: Man, you just gave me so much to think about regarding the Dillon that it's going to take me a good 48 hours to process. If I enjoy reloading as much as I *think* I'm going to like it, there's a good chance that I *MIGHT* shoot 100 rounds during the off-season this year, but I might not make it quite that much. I ordered the scope-mount bases for my 1894AE and am going to put an inexpensive Nikon, Redfield, or B&L on it to see how I like it...basically just something to give my eye more light in the early-AM/late-PM time-frame. I hit a 3" spike at 100 yards this year that i would have SWORN was a doe....because I took the shot about 10 minutes after it was clear enough to make sure I was shooting a deer as opposed to, say, a Moose (in central SC, mind you...). I think with something as simple as a 30mm tube with a 40mm Objective I could have probably ascertained that I was shooting a spike rather than a doe (I was after a particular doe although a spike this late in the season with a decent neck-mass size was probably a good management decision....even if it was an accident).
Yes, for a rank beginner with no designs on turning pro anytime soon, the inexpensive Lee option is probably the way to go. You've definitely given me something to think about. My dad's reloading gear consists entirely of a Pre-'82 MEC 600 Jr 20 guage shotgun shell reloader. That's it. Other than my cousin who aquired the Dillon 650 about 18 months ago, that MEC is my family's cumulative total of reloading experience. =)
 
Everything that everyone made perfect sense except for the remark about the Nosler partitions...I saw them on several of the websites but couldn't/can't understand why they're so much more-expensive. I would've thought that with the "newness" and "revolutionary" characteristics of the Leverevolution bullets that they would be the priciest (sic?). My main goal, as originally stated, will be to re-create the 170gr silvertip round that I love so much that I can't find anymore (duh! obviously because it isn't made anymore).

@ArchAngelCD: would you not agree that "punch" is more of what I'm after at the 80yd to 120yd range? My absolute MAX range for my shots on my farm are under 150yds (although I haven't taped off/lased that range). I just like that "good ole feeling" of lining up the shot and controlling my breathing long enough to get a good trigger squeeze without pushing or pulling with my index finger or without screwing my parallax 6-ways-from-Sunday with my breathing/heartbeat. Keep in mind that this year's hunting has been ALL ABOUT putting meat in the freezer (as well as learning how to make sausage of several varieties) with a little bit of QDMA Herd Management thrown in for good measure. I'm not shooting for trophies and have, in fact, left several of the nicer bucks for the hunt club that leases the majority of my property. That Sierra Pro-Hunter looks like it (thanks to you) has moved to the top of my priority list...
Even though the Nosler Partition is now probably a senior citizen it's still an excellent bullet and it costs so much more because it's expensive to manufacture. Many hunting bullets are still compared to the original Nosler Partition bullet.

I totally agree it's the "punch" along with proper bullet placement that anchors game. That's why I like loading and shooting a 170gr bullet in the 30-30 above all other weights. Here in the Northeast of Pennsylvania the woods are fairly thick and if you get a 80 yard shot on Deer it's a long shot so I know what you mean.

You will like the 170gr Sierra Pro-Hunter bullet and on the outside chance your rifle isn't happy with them the Hornady bullets will probably do the trick. I like the fact Hornady breath new life into the good old 30-30 with the FTX bullet but in reality it's not necessary IMO. If where I'm hunting will requite long shots that might not be in the 30-30's wheel house I would use my 30-06 bolt action rifle instead.

Please don't forget the range report...
 
Just curious, how many .30-30 cases do you currently have?

Here's one tip that I wish someone had told me when I was starting creloading: Skip the conventional dies and get a Lee Collet die. It neck sizes only. This saves a lot of wear and tear on your brass.

After a couple of loadings, the shoulder of your brass will stretch out and become hard to chamber. Use a Redding Body Die ($20 or so) to bump back the shoulder .001 or .002. Then use the Collet die to neck size the case.

One more tip: Depending on how tightly your rifle is headspaced, slip an O ring around the rim of your .30-30 cartridges (this only works on rimmed cartridges) so that the cartridge is held as far back as possible in the chamber. The brass will fire form more uniformly.

If money is REALLY tight, consider getting a classic Lee Loader (the whack-a-mole) kit. For $26 you can start loading today (less on EBay). There are some serious compromises with this system, namely priming, but these produce great ammo. I'm a big fan, although I use my with an arbor press and a hand primer. If you're just loading a box at a time, these work great!

Good luck!

-John
 
Just curious, how many .30-30 cases do you currently have?

Here's one tip that I wish someone had told me when I was starting creloading: Skip the conventional dies and get a Lee Collet die. It neck sizes only. This saves a lot of wear and tear on your brass.

Good luck!

-John
John,
Neck sizing only for ammo that will be used in a levergun is not a good idea. It does not work well and is not recommended by Lee either.
 
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