scythefwd
Member
hey invented the HiPower, which was double stack double action
Hi power is single action
hey invented the HiPower, which was double stack double action
old_lady_new_shooter said:Are you saying stainless steel will rust?
Stainless steel is an alloy that contains 10.5% or more of chromium (Cr) and iron (Fe) in excess of 50%. Chromium is the element that makes stainless steel so resistant to stains. In fact, stainless steel should be called stain resistant steel, as it can stain but is less likely to do so than pure steel. Stainless steel is also very easy to care for and doesn’t require regular maintenance to keep its beauty.
michael_t said:How many of todays plastic wonders still be around in 50 or 75 years .
Eeek, I haven't even started learning about how to take care of a gun (All you guys here who grew up with guns, try to imagine being already old and having to learn everything from scratch!), I figured that would be more cut-and-dried than developing a gun owner mindset and learning how to shoot properly, but I was thinking to get a 686 Plus (probably 6"), which is stainless steel (official description "satin stainless") and thought an added benefit would be that stainless steel would be easy to keep nice... what do I have to do so it doesn't end up looking like those photos?Yes it will. It's very common to see stainless guns pitted from rust.
Here's as couple of pics of a .44 Mag Ruger Redhawk that was caught in the rain several years ago. The owner very carefully wiped down the outside but never disassembled it to dry or lube the internals. Only indication of anything wrong was a slightly gritty feeling action which the owner (and everyone else who shot it in the last few years) never noticed. Probably the only reason that I noticed it was because we were shooting it side by side with my .357 Redhawk and it wasn't quite as smooth. However, it cleaned up very nicely with only minor pitting where it couldn't be seen.
LOL, barring the zombie apocalypse people keep mentioning, no crawling in mud or rain. I probably won't even go to the range if it's raining as long as we don't have concealed carry here because until we get it I'd only ever be using it inside my house, so no need to practice in the rain.Just wiping down on the outside will keep a 686 (or any other stainless revolver) working and looking like new for the lifetime of the vast majority of owners. Based on your user name, I'm assuming that you're not going to be low crawling in the mud and rain anytime soon!
Try not to let it get soaking wet so water gets inside it. If it does, no big deal, have someone that knows what they're doing remove the cylinder and sideplate and clean/lube the internals within the next few weeks. Or learn to do it yourself, lots of good books out there. Don't trust the internet for ANYTHING until you have done some basic research and specifically know what you're looking for. Lots of yahoos with NO background or knowledge out there that are free to post whatever crosses their mind.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to have it disassembled and cleaned every couple of thousand rounds or every 10 years or so, whichever comes first. Do that and your grandkid's grandkids will be passing it down to their kids!
NOTE: A basic firearm cleaning kit should include: a brass bore
brush and a cleaning jag of appropriate size for the bore being
cleaned, high-quality gun cleaning solvent and gun oil/lubricant,
cotton cleaning patches and a cleaning rod that is long enough
to push the brush and jag completely through the barrel.
• Remove excessive firing residue from the bore and cylinder
using a properly fitted brass brush dipped in gun cleaning solvent.
Finish the bore cleaning process by running a dry cotton
cloth patch through the bore and cylinder charging holes to
remove residue and solvent.
• Clean the exterior of the firearm using a non-abrasive cleaning
cloth.
• After cleaning, lightly coat the metal parts, internal and external
with a high quality gun oil.
• Clean the exterior of the firearm using a non-abrasive cleaning
cloth.
• After cleaning, lightly coat the metal parts, internal and external
with a high quality gun oil.
Whenever your firearm has been exposed to sand, dust, extreme
humidity, water or other adverse conditions, it must be cleaned
and lubricated.
Wow, thank you so much!!!There are different levels of cleaning. More guns are ruined by over-zealous cleaning, lost parts, and improper re-assembly than are ever worn out by shooting.
If you've shot 50 rounds and are going to shoot it another 50 the next day? Wipe it down with a soft cloth and put it away.
If you're taking a week long combat pistol class shooting 200 or 300 rounds per day? Clean it per the S&W manual every evening after class.
If you shoot a box through it once a month? Go here, download the S&W revolver manual, and follow the cleaning instructions on page 31. Should take you about 10 minutes. Basically run a bore brush through the barrel and chambers, run a cloth patch through the barrel and chambers, then wipe it down. Should take you about 10 minutes. It will last forever. Maybe every 5 or 10 years have a qualified gunsmith do a complete disassembly/clean/lube if it's your primary self-defense weapon and you're a believer in the belt and suspenders approach. Make sure you test-fire it after re-assembly before you trust your life to it.
If you drop it in a mud puddle or get caught in a sand storm for a couple of hours while shooting? Take it to a gunsmith and have it completely cleaned.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...4_750001_750051_757821_-1_757814_757812_image
<g>You'll "want" to go to the range every week once you get in the routine! Shooting a nice S&W revolver is fun!
Walnut and Maple were chosen because they are the best choice of wool for stocking firearms. Pine would have been much cheaper but been inferior....Most guys don't realize that walnut and blue didn't become the preferred choice years ago because they looked good. It was chosen for exactly the same reasons plastic and matte finished metal is the preferred choice today. At the time they were the cheapest, easiest to manufacture options available that were adequate. There have always been better options, and better looking options. These were the cheapest. I'm sure there were some interesting campfire discussions 200 years ago about the crappy walnut being used on guns of the day just as some complain about plastic today.
I enjoy a pretty gun as much as the next guy, but can't see the point in getting all teary eyed over a very common looking stick of wood wrapped around 95% of the wood stocked rifles/shotguns made in the last 50-60 years. I burn wood by the truck load to heat my house every year that looks as good or better than what is on most guns.
All of my lever action rifles are in walnut. I just haven't found anything in plastic that works well with them. But I haven't hunted with a wood stocked bolt action since I bought a Brown Precision stock in 1983. The better synthetics certainly don't look any worse than common wood, and are far more functional. Even the high end synthetics cost less than a really nice piece of wood.