Slide grease preferences for using on CCW auto?

[DaddioDan]

I've used bearing grease on the slides of my Ruger and Smith 3rd gen semis forever.

But I use a toothpick to apply a little dot to the rails. Reassemble and cycle the slide a bunch of times and still have to wipe off a little excess. Albeit a tiny amount. Doesn't take much.

My old man - the world's greatest shade tree mechanic - once told me "if it rotates, oil it. If it slides, grease it." Good advice for cars and guns.

 

[ilmonster]

Another fan/convert to Lubriplate on my pistols. Also use Slip 2000 EWL on my AR based on Pat Rogers experience (much more severe duty cycle than I'll ever experience).


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[Stumper]

I have been very pleased with SuperLube grease. Slick, Clear, Non staining, Temperature stable. I've been using the same tube for years and it is still nearly full-"A little dab will do ya."

 

[MIL-DOT]

Lubricated is proper amounts is more important that which lube you use.
A gun is not much different as far as parts wear to the millions of machines that get oiled and greased in factories across the world every single day.

Everybody has a favorite lube and it is very much like fishing lures, they all tout amazing performance but in the end the only thing they accomplish well is separating gun owners from their money.

I suspect that if you bought a quart of good synthetic motor oil and a tub of bearing grease, as long as you cleaned your gun semi regularly that you would never be able to tell the difference in performance or wear between a tiny little tube and bottle of gun specific lubricant and that big giant tub of red Mobil 1

EXACTLY, well stated ! Despite beliefs to the contrary, there is no possible way that any person or their pistol is going to tell
an iota of (non-imaginary) difference in generic Wal-mart grease, and the most expensive, premium stuff they can find.
People claiming to have years of flawless service with their Triple-Mega-Ultra-Super-Slick-9000-Deluxe lubricant, would have gotten the same flawless service from any other product, yet they always manage to convince themselves that this and only this product was the reason for the flawless operation.
Lubricate properly and often, clean properly and often, then the exact product is basically irrelevant. I constantly rotate betweem LSA, CLP, Rem-oil, Mobil1 synthetic,Tri-flo, Dupont multi-use teflon spray,Bel-Ray waterproof grease, etc.etc. and yet somehow, ALL of my stuff runs perfectly.

 

[Warp]

EXACTLY, well stated ! Despite beliefs to the contrary, there is no possible way that any person or their pistol is going to tell
an iota of (non-imaginary) difference in generic Wal-mart grease, and the most expensive, premium stuff they can find.
People claiming to have years of flawless service with their Triple-Mega-Ultra-Super-Slick-9000-Deluxe lubricant, would have gotten the same flawless service from any other product, yet they always manage to convince themselves that this and only this product was the reason for the flawless operation.
Lubricate properly and often, clean properly and often, then the exact product is basically irrelevant. I constantly rotate betweem LSA, CLP, Rem-oil, Mobil1 synthetic,Tri-flo, Dupont multi-use teflon spray,Bel-Ray waterproof grease, etc.etc. and yet somehow, ALL of my stuff runs perfectly.

Who says you need to clean often??

 

[berettaprofessor]

I have been very pleased with SuperLube grease. Slick, Clear, Non staining, Temperature stable. I've been using the same tube for years and it is still nearly full-"A little dab will do ya."

Ditto here. SuperLube is great and best of all, it's clear; all the white greases just show up on that pretty black metal. Sometimes it is stocked in odd places, though, for instance, Cabelas doesn't place it in the gun cleaning aisle, it is placed in the black powder supplies aisle.

 

[MIL-DOT]

Who says you need to clean often??

Wait, I thought this thread was about pistols, not AK's ?

 

[primalmu]

Ya the grease went everywhere once I fired it. I pulled the trigger the grease splattered on my hand.

Ran like a champ, but that's probably because it was a Glock.


I've done that with GP bearing grease too.

When I pulled the trigger the grease splattered on my hands

Looks to me like you are applying WAY too much grease! No wonder it was splattering everywhere! Like another poster said, I apply my grease with a toothpick, and probably only apply 1/10th of what you are picturing here.

 

[JohnKSa]

I typically apply grease with a small watch screwdriver. It makes a good "spoon" to dip out a little dab of grease and a decent "knife" to spread the grease where it needs to be. And it's small enough to put it right where I want it.

What was left on the wooden stick in the picture would be enough to lube a couple of pistols.

The grease I use most often for steel-to-steel contact is made from Breakfree CLP mixed with a super fine molybdenum disulfide (moly) powder. It's essentially a dry lube, but the oil gives it enough "sticky" to stay put.

For steel to plastic contact I tend to use a light white lithium grease.

I have also used Lubriplate [strike]SFL-B[/strike] SFL-0 grease for steel-to-steel and steel-to-plastic and have no complaints. It's non-toxic, non-staining, and virtually odorless which is nice for a carry gun.

 

[I6turbo]

I have the last tiny tube of Gunslick black grease on the planet.

No you don't.

 

[Ironicaintit]

I still have a tube of gunslick, too! Sometimes I use it...
Most times, I grab whichever grease is close to hand. I tend to grab the red synthetic valvoline for grease, or CLP if I'm using oil.

I have a ton of pipe cleaners, so I use those to apply it.

 

[normslee]

Lubriplate SFL-0 Grease

I use Lubriplate SFL-0 Grease on the rails of my semi-autos.

Lubriplate grease has been well known for many years to be a fantastic firearm lubricant. Used by the military, it was issued for use on the M14 rifle. With tighter tolerances on newer firearms the SFL series, specifically SFL-0 is the best.

It's also resistant to water washout and acid/alkali environments, has great shear resistance, and doesn't oxidize like lithium greases will.

One tip on using the slide grease: Use just enough to make the slide lube points look wet. That all you need.

Lubriplate can be found at www.lubrikit.com:)

 

[HoosierQ]

No you don't.

Good to know, great stuff. Miss it. Don't use it on aluminum I guess.

 

[Highcaliber]

I'll 2nd the vote on the SuperLube synthetic grease. Any gun grease should be applied sparingly. Just a light film, enought to appear "wet" without blobs and mounds of grease everywhere. Too much of ANY gun grease can actually impede fast moving parts.

I was thinking that the Greasy Glock in the previous post, was supposed to be a joke. Or at least I hope it was a joke.

 

[200Apples]

.
I just started using high temp wheel bearing grease w/ molybdenum on my SA wheelguns' base pin/cylinder interface... but just a smidge.

Was pondering whether or not to start using it on my 1911 slides...

rc

About the slickest thing I have found is Wilson Combat Ultimate Lube.

It is thicker then oil, thinner then grease.
But slicker then snot on a glass doorknob!!

SOLD!

 

[Deanimator]

I wouldn't use grease on a firearm, other than as a long term rust preventative. Grease attracts and holds foreign matter which can act as an abrasive.

I use ClenzOil on all of my firearms which are not in storage. It's very slick, but neither gums up nor holds onto foreign matter.

 

[Schwing]

IMHO I would not use grease on your rails. My XD45 went 4K rounds with no FTF or FTE. I applied a highly touted (and expensive) grease to the rails. I got short stroking and feed issues immediately. 2-3 FTF per 50 round box. After a good cleaning and some RemOil on the rails over 3K rounds with zero malfunctions.

this has been my experience as well. Grease on handgun slides just doesn't seem to be a good combo for me, more so when it gets cold.

 

[MIL-DOT]

I wouldn't use grease on a firearm, other than as a long term rust preventative. Grease attracts and holds foreign matter which can act as an abrasive.

This doesn't apply to anyone that regularly cleans their weapons.

 

[Deanimator]

This doesn't apply to anyone that regularly cleans their weapons.

It DOES apply to anyone who SHOOTS their firearms.

 

[MIL-DOT]

It DOES apply to anyone who SHOOTS their firearms.

No, it doesn't. At least not any more than it does to an oiled firearm (because oil collects gunk,TOO, ya know.) If you clean your weapon after firing, as you should, then an internally greased rail is no more of a gunk-attracting liability than oil is.
You can get as huffy as you like, this is still a fact.

 

[Miky]

I would spend the extra $5 and get a lightweight grease specifically designed for guns. Don't go throwing wheelbearing grease on there because a $6 tub has the potential to last the rest of your life. You frequently see cost as a reason given to use something other than gun lubricants and that really puzzles me.

Wheel bearing grease has the consistency it has because its designed to be packed in a wheel bearing and left there for years. Will it work? Sure, i bet it will. But that's a pretty low bar. You can use grandpa's rusty screw driver to open a beer bottle and it won't cost you a dime - but that doesn't make it smart, espcially when you can buy a bottle opener for 99 cents.

I can recommend g96 synthetic grease and tw25-b, ive used them both and they work. They have a light consistency, almost like cold cream. They are thick enough to keep from running or drying like oil, but thin enough to not slow the action of the gun. If your grease is collecting dirt, you are using too much and not cleaning enough.

And, guess what - a $12 bottle of tw25b will most likely last you a couple of years, that really isnt that bad.

Lets say you own the gun for 20 years, you could spend $120 lubing it with tw25b, or you could spend $6 on wheel bearing grease. I promise you won't notice the $114 over 20 years. Thats ~$6 per year. You can save that by cutting a shopping coupon and avoiding a toll road once per year.

And another note, if your gun is as lubrication sensitive as you suggest, grease instead of oil might be a good idea because it will stay-put longer. But even still, you need to consider field stripping and re-lubing at least monthly.

 

[C0untZer0]

I love Walmart grease too !!!

Its FAAAAAAAAAN-Tastic !

.

 

[Warp]

No, it doesn't. At least not any more than it does to an oiled firearm (because oil collects gunk,TOO, ya know.) If you clean your weapon after firing, as you should, then an internally greased rail is no more of a gunk-attracting liability than oil is.
You can get as huffy as you like, this is still a fact.

I don't believe it necessary, at all, to clean a firearm after every session.

My belief is supported by, among other things, my own guns.

 

[Miky]

I don't believe it necessary, at all, to clean a firearm after every session.

My belief is supported by, among other things, my own guns.

Depends on what you are using the gun for Warp. Informal bullseyes at the range - regular cleaning probably not necessary....competition, self defense, duty, - Why wouldn't you clean it?

Olympic skaters sharpen their skates before every skate for one reason...they work better that way. Even if the benefit isn't noticeable, it puts them further away from the point where dull skates become an issue.

Not only does regular cleaning put your gun back into the condition in which it was designed to function, it gives you the opportunity to inspect it for wear an parts breakage.

 

[Big7]

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