Smith&Wesson M&P Sport: Range reports and Q&A
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Breakmyfootoff
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That made me lol a little
ugaarguy
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Another New Sport Owner
Rather than start another thread (there's also the thread about the nitrided / melonited bbl. of the Sport going) on the M&P-15 Sport, and fragment the info, I figured I'd add my experience here.
I also picked up an M&P-15 Sport on 6/12. As noted previously in this thread the M&P is really a mid tier / pushing top tier AR, missing a dust cover & FA, for a bottom tier price.
Immediately after picking up the Sport I headed to the local indoor 25 yard for break in and test fire. I'd packed all my goodies (eye pro, ear pro, sight tool, etc.) in my range bag, but managed to forget my small bottle of CLP :banghead: . There wasn't much packing lube on the gun, and the bore was clear of obstructions, so I decided to go ahead and run it semi-dry as it was. Ammo was 100 rounds of Hornady Brass Training 55gr FMJ. Mags were the supplied P-Mag, and two C-Products Mags which I had lying around, w/ Magpul anti-tilt copy followers factory installed.
I used the military 25m point blank zero method. Groups were acceptable for sighting in. I, however, am rusty, and need to practice my trigger control . After zeroing, and trying to work on my trigger control for a bit with short strings, I fired the remaining 50 rounds rapid fire, standing. Rounds were fired in two groups of 25 shots each, one group from each C-Products mag. I did this to test both the mags, and the rifle in rapid fire. Groups were, once again, acceptable for rapid fire & reiterated my need to work on trigger control.
My initial testing backs up my previous comments here on the Sport. Those previous comments were based on hands on inspection of the Sport, and prior experience with an M&P-15 A. As Z-Michigan has noted, the forward assist really isn't necessary, and may not even be desirable IMO.
The dust cover is also probably of minimal utility on a non-military rifle. If you live in a desert / dusty environment, and ride around with the rifle exposed to the elements (I know some ranchers & farmers actually do) then a dust cover may be something you need. For most needs non-military needs though, even including an LE patrol rifle, an AR type rifle is going to ride around cased and/or in a vehicle. In those cases the dust cover would come open anyway to chamber a round, or during firing.
The barrel has already been discussed at length. I will add that it has proper M4 feed ramps, and the upper does have the proper matching M4 feed ramp extensions.
The forged in trigger guard mimics the Magpul enhanced trigger guard. Unless you plan to use the rifle in truly frigid conditions requiring thick gloves (and I know some of you live in places like Alaska and may actually do this), you shouldn't need to open the bottom of the trigger guard. If you can break the forged in trigger guard, well you've probably damaged the grip and/or mag well also.
My only real gripe is the unshielded handguards. However, single heat shield handguards are under $20 at Brownells, and true M4 style dual heat shielded models can be found for just over $20 at Brownells & many other reputable AR parts websites.
Initial Conclusion: Out of the box, the M&P-15 Sport is a steal. At $600 NIB from the big box places, it shatters the price barrier to get into a quality AR. Adding $25 for upgraded handguards is the only real need I see. I bought this rifle as a cheap backup to a top tier M4gery, and it compares surprisingly well to that rifle which cost nearly twice as much.
Unnecessary, but helpful, info about my background below
To put my opinions on the M&P-15 Sport into perspective, I'll share my background with AR type rifles. I've been shooting AR type rifles since I was a teenager, and now have 12+ years with them (I'm in my late 20s). I also used an M-16A2 quite a bit in the USAF (yes I was in one of those weird AF units that actually went into the field and used small arms). Past AR type rifles I've owned include Colt SP1 (slick-side), DPMS carbine, Olympic A2 HBAR style, LMT Defender 2000, Charles Daly CDM4LE, S&W M&P-15 A, and a pistol based around a Noveske / VLTOR factory upper upper with Noveske 7" Diplomat bbl. Some were traded, and the final one I owned (The LMT) was sold during economic difficulties. Thankfully things recently turned around, and I was able to pick up a DDM4 V1 to get back into a top tier AR. So, when I compare the M&P-15 Sport to other AR type rifles, it's from a perspective of someone who has hands on experience with ARs from all price & build quality tiers.
Rather than start another thread (there's also the thread about the nitrided / melonited bbl. of the Sport going) on the M&P-15 Sport, and fragment the info, I figured I'd add my experience here.
I also picked up an M&P-15 Sport on 6/12. As noted previously in this thread the M&P is really a mid tier / pushing top tier AR, missing a dust cover & FA, for a bottom tier price.
Immediately after picking up the Sport I headed to the local indoor 25 yard for break in and test fire. I'd packed all my goodies (eye pro, ear pro, sight tool, etc.) in my range bag, but managed to forget my small bottle of CLP :banghead: . There wasn't much packing lube on the gun, and the bore was clear of obstructions, so I decided to go ahead and run it semi-dry as it was. Ammo was 100 rounds of Hornady Brass Training 55gr FMJ. Mags were the supplied P-Mag, and two C-Products Mags which I had lying around, w/ Magpul anti-tilt copy followers factory installed.
I used the military 25m point blank zero method. Groups were acceptable for sighting in. I, however, am rusty, and need to practice my trigger control
. After zeroing, and trying to work on my trigger control for a bit with short strings, I fired the remaining 50 rounds rapid fire, standing. Rounds were fired in two groups of 25 shots each, one group from each C-Products mag. I did this to test both the mags, and the rifle in rapid fire. Groups were, once again, acceptable for rapid fire & reiterated my need to work on trigger control.My initial testing backs up my previous comments here on the Sport. Those previous comments were based on hands on inspection of the Sport, and prior experience with an M&P-15 A. As Z-Michigan has noted, the forward assist really isn't necessary, and may not even be desirable IMO.
The dust cover is also probably of minimal utility on a non-military rifle. If you live in a desert / dusty environment, and ride around with the rifle exposed to the elements (I know some ranchers & farmers actually do) then a dust cover may be something you need. For most needs non-military needs though, even including an LE patrol rifle, an AR type rifle is going to ride around cased and/or in a vehicle. In those cases the dust cover would come open anyway to chamber a round, or during firing.
The barrel has already been discussed at length. I will add that it has proper M4 feed ramps, and the upper does have the proper matching M4 feed ramp extensions.
The forged in trigger guard mimics the Magpul enhanced trigger guard. Unless you plan to use the rifle in truly frigid conditions requiring thick gloves (and I know some of you live in places like Alaska and may actually do this), you shouldn't need to open the bottom of the trigger guard. If you can break the forged in trigger guard, well you've probably damaged the grip and/or mag well also.
My only real gripe is the unshielded handguards. However, single heat shield handguards are under $20 at Brownells, and true M4 style dual heat shielded models can be found for just over $20 at Brownells & many other reputable AR parts websites.
Initial Conclusion: Out of the box, the M&P-15 Sport is a steal. At $600 NIB from the big box places, it shatters the price barrier to get into a quality AR. Adding $25 for upgraded handguards is the only real need I see. I bought this rifle as a cheap backup to a top tier M4gery, and it compares surprisingly well to that rifle which cost nearly twice as much.
Unnecessary, but helpful, info about my background below
To put my opinions on the M&P-15 Sport into perspective, I'll share my background with AR type rifles. I've been shooting AR type rifles since I was a teenager, and now have 12+ years with them (I'm in my late 20s). I also used an M-16A2 quite a bit in the USAF (yes I was in one of those weird AF units that actually went into the field and used small arms). Past AR type rifles I've owned include Colt SP1 (slick-side), DPMS carbine, Olympic A2 HBAR style, LMT Defender 2000, Charles Daly CDM4LE, S&W M&P-15 A, and a pistol based around a Noveske / VLTOR factory upper upper with Noveske 7" Diplomat bbl. Some were traded, and the final one I owned (The LMT) was sold during economic difficulties. Thankfully things recently turned around, and I was able to pick up a DDM4 V1 to get back into a top tier AR. So, when I compare the M&P-15 Sport to other AR type rifles, it's from a perspective of someone who has hands on experience with ARs from all price & build quality tiers.
Breakmyfootoff
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Thanks for adding in a great review! Is there a way for me to add this to the OP as a qoute to keep the pertinent info up front? The "edit" button appears to have disappeared from that post.
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Made the change
Breakmyfootoff
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Thank you sir
That's why I bought the first Sport that I could find. I'm hoping that S&W will add some competitive pressure to the AR market and force other manufacturers to start offering complete, quality AR's available in retail outlets for a more reasonable price.
The cost of AR's has been, IMO, a barrier to many first time buyers entering the AR market. I know that I was reluctant to spend $1,000+ on a rifle just to see if I would enjoy shooting it. I was also reluctant to spend $700 to order parts online and build a rifle with parts manufactured by a company that I never heard of.
I'm a pistol shooter who was already familiar with S&W products, since I own several of their M&P pistols. I can envision a whole bunch of pistol shooters going into their LGS, seeing an Sport for $600 - the price of one of their pistols - from a company whose reputation they know and trust, and buying a Sport on the spot.
cmdc
Member
I purchased a M&P Sport about a month ago, having never heard of it. Coincidentally, or because I never noticed it before I bought mine, I started seeing lots of posts, pro and con about this rifle. Yesterday I took it to the range for the first time, and it ran flawlessly, and was supremely accurate. I am very impressed, especially for the price.
Bartholomew Roberts
Member
I've got to admit, from the few reports I've read, I am really impressed at the quality of rifle that S&W is putting out at a $600 price point. Ultimately, that is good for all of us.
I'm curious about some of the esoteric things on the Sport such as what type of buffer it is using and if anyone has an idea of how the gas port is sized on it. M4 spec is 0.62" but I am guessing the Sport is probably slightly more generously sized for .223 ammo.
I'm curious about some of the esoteric things on the Sport such as what type of buffer it is using and if anyone has an idea of how the gas port is sized on it. M4 spec is 0.62" but I am guessing the Sport is probably slightly more generously sized for .223 ammo.
Bartholomew Roberts
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You are truly a gentleman if you would even consider trying to remove the FSB just to mic the gas port for us. Thanks!
ugaarguy
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No problem. I'll call the range where I shoot and see if I can use their bigger hammers Thursday.
ETA: I'm hoping it's M4 spec on the gas port. With the 16" bbl. there should be enough dwell time or pressure to run .223 with no issues. Hopefully I can find out.
ETA: I'm hoping it's M4 spec on the gas port. With the 16" bbl. there should be enough dwell time or pressure to run .223 with no issues. Hopefully I can find out.
Z-Michigan
Member
Before you work on it more, why not call S&W? They have excellent customer service and can probably just tell you on the phone.
Breakmyfootoff
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I'm curious about what buffer size to run also. When I had mine at the range, my 9 year old was shooting it and I noticed that the casings were ejecting in such a manner that a left handed shooter would have been pretty uncomfortable lol (around the 5 o'clock direction). I was using the cheap steel cased 55 grain walmart .223 tulammo. I know I remember reading something about buffer weight affecting which way the brass ejected, but I cant remember the specifics.
Edit: Answered my own question. According to this diagram, ejection to the rear would be due to lower gas pressures, which coincides with the cheap wally world ammo I was using. Now I'm anxious to get some mil. spec 5.56 to see if that follows suit according to the diagram.
Edit: Answered my own question. According to this diagram, ejection to the rear would be due to lower gas pressures, which coincides with the cheap wally world ammo I was using. Now I'm anxious to get some mil. spec 5.56 to see if that follows suit according to the diagram.
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My understanding is that brass should be ejecting at about 4:00, but if the rifle is over gassed, it will be coming out in the 2:00 to 3:00 direction. I put a Spikes ST-T2 buffer, which is between and H and H2 buffer weight, and the brass seemed to be ejecting at about 4:00 after the change. However, I was shooting in an indoor range and the brass was bouncing off the lane enclosure, so it was hard to tell the exact angle of ejection. I'm planning to go to an outdoor range this weekend and should be able to see better where the brass is landing.
I've read that S&W carbines (all models, not just the Sport), tend to be over gassed. As suggested, that may be to allow proper cycling with lower powered .223 ammo. I'm shooting XM193, which is full powered 5.56, so I decided to install a heavier buffer. When I replace the buffer spring I'll probably try a Wolff extra strength spring.
in any event, the rifle has functioned flawlessly with both buffers, so I don't think that this is a critical item.
Edit: Just saw the chart above. Using XM193, my brass is definitely not ejecting in the yellow range of the chart. Try some full powered 5.56 and I think that you'll find that the ejection angle will be in the blue or even red range.
Good thing is that we know, between our two experiences, that the Sport will function reliably with everything from steel cased, lower powered .223 ammo up to full powered, brass cased 5.56. Good to know.
I've read that S&W carbines (all models, not just the Sport), tend to be over gassed. As suggested, that may be to allow proper cycling with lower powered .223 ammo. I'm shooting XM193, which is full powered 5.56, so I decided to install a heavier buffer. When I replace the buffer spring I'll probably try a Wolff extra strength spring.
in any event, the rifle has functioned flawlessly with both buffers, so I don't think that this is a critical item.
Edit: Just saw the chart above. Using XM193, my brass is definitely not ejecting in the yellow range of the chart. Try some full powered 5.56 and I think that you'll find that the ejection angle will be in the blue or even red range.
Good thing is that we know, between our two experiences, that the Sport will function reliably with everything from steel cased, lower powered .223 ammo up to full powered, brass cased 5.56. Good to know.
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ugaarguy
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Proving to be one Tough Gun
I've added Troy MRF-CX handguards, and a Daniel Defense QD stud receiver extension end-plate to the Sport. Even with the extra money money in those parts, I still think the M&P Sport is inexpensive for what it is. The bigger deal is the build quality this rifle is demonstrating.
The stock end-plate was very well staked to the RE castle nut. I had to absolutely crank on the castle nut to break it free from the stock end-plate so I could install the DD part.
As noted in a previous post, I'd attempted to take the FSB off in order to mic the gas port. I'd really pounded on those pins with hammer & punch, to no avail. I also had to push out the roll pin to remove the fixed sling swivel from the FSB to install the new handguard set. That FSB has taken a beating.
Last, I'd played with the supplied rear sight a bit, because I was going to set it so I could try out the Santose Battle Zero. None of my small SAE Allen wrenches would fit, so I returned the sight to zero. I'll have to call S&W in a few hours when they open and see what they say about the rear sight assy. Point is, the sight was cranked up, then brought back to zero.
So, after pounding on the FSB, installing a new free float handguard set, and monkeying with the rear sight; I was sure my zero would be off. I returned to the local indoor range to reset my 25m point blank zero. The zero was still dead on. Pounding on the FSB pins like I did would have knocked the windage off if this rifle wasn't put together as well as it is. Running the rear sight elevation drum up, and then back down would have knocked the elevation off if S&W was supplying a cheap rear sight to cut costs. Neither happened - the rifle held zero. This is just another demonstration of how well S&W building this $600 rifle.
My groups were a bit tighter, but I think it's just me regaining my lost trigger control more than the FF handguard at the short range. I'll be off later in the week, so I'll see if I can schedule time to shoot this it at 100 yards & more at the local semi-private range. I'll source some higher end ammo for the range trip to see just what this 5R bbl. will do free floated. I'll of course post a report after the range session.
If the rest of the Sports have FSBs pinned on as tight as mine, I think drop in handguards will be the way to go. Drop ins also help to avoid gunsmithing and/or personal tools costs, which stays with the economical quality theme of the Sport, IMO.
As for the Troy MRF-CX handguards (this is the 12" model that extends past the FSB), installation was quite easy. I carefully cut the delta ring with a cutoff wheel in my Dremel, and then removed the spring & c-clip with heavy pliers as per the supplied instructions. I used a picatinny riser clamped across the upper receiver and onto the handguard's top rail to square it - hat tip to the DIY tutorials over at AR15.com. Other than that, I followed the very simple supplied instructions. I found the MRF-CX handguards at Cheaper Than Dirt for $185 plus shipping. The price wasn't much more than many of the other 7" direct replacement (non-free float) handguards from Troy and other quality makers.
The DD Omega-X 12 FSP (factory installed on my DD M4 V1) is lighter, a bit thinner, and a bit nicer IMO. However, the Troy has to be a bit wider to allow leaving the old handguard cap underneath for easier installation. The Troy MRF has a more rounded shape than the DD Omega-X, which some may prefer. I'm fine with either, and the width difference is minor. While I really like the DD Omega, I also really like the Troy MRF. Ease of installation, and a 1/3 lower price tag are nice features of the MRF as well. Aside from weight the Troy unit compares very favorably to the DD Omega-X line in terms of fit, finish, and manufacturing quality. I also can't stress enough how much the new handguard set has helped with heat dissipation over the unshielded stock HG set.
I've added Troy MRF-CX handguards, and a Daniel Defense QD stud receiver extension end-plate to the Sport. Even with the extra money money in those parts, I still think the M&P Sport is inexpensive for what it is. The bigger deal is the build quality this rifle is demonstrating.
The stock end-plate was very well staked to the RE castle nut. I had to absolutely crank on the castle nut to break it free from the stock end-plate so I could install the DD part.
As noted in a previous post, I'd attempted to take the FSB off in order to mic the gas port. I'd really pounded on those pins with hammer & punch, to no avail. I also had to push out the roll pin to remove the fixed sling swivel from the FSB to install the new handguard set. That FSB has taken a beating.
Last, I'd played with the supplied rear sight a bit, because I was going to set it so I could try out the Santose Battle Zero. None of my small SAE Allen wrenches would fit, so I returned the sight to zero. I'll have to call S&W in a few hours when they open and see what they say about the rear sight assy. Point is, the sight was cranked up, then brought back to zero.
So, after pounding on the FSB, installing a new free float handguard set, and monkeying with the rear sight; I was sure my zero would be off. I returned to the local indoor range to reset my 25m point blank zero. The zero was still dead on. Pounding on the FSB pins like I did would have knocked the windage off if this rifle wasn't put together as well as it is. Running the rear sight elevation drum up, and then back down would have knocked the elevation off if S&W was supplying a cheap rear sight to cut costs. Neither happened - the rifle held zero. This is just another demonstration of how well S&W building this $600 rifle.
My groups were a bit tighter, but I think it's just me regaining my lost trigger control more than the FF handguard at the short range. I'll be off later in the week, so I'll see if I can schedule time to shoot this it at 100 yards & more at the local semi-private range. I'll source some higher end ammo for the range trip to see just what this 5R bbl. will do free floated. I'll of course post a report after the range session.
If the rest of the Sports have FSBs pinned on as tight as mine, I think drop in handguards will be the way to go. Drop ins also help to avoid gunsmithing and/or personal tools costs, which stays with the economical quality theme of the Sport, IMO.
As for the Troy MRF-CX handguards (this is the 12" model that extends past the FSB), installation was quite easy. I carefully cut the delta ring with a cutoff wheel in my Dremel, and then removed the spring & c-clip with heavy pliers as per the supplied instructions. I used a picatinny riser clamped across the upper receiver and onto the handguard's top rail to square it - hat tip to the DIY tutorials over at AR15.com. Other than that, I followed the very simple supplied instructions. I found the MRF-CX handguards at Cheaper Than Dirt for $185 plus shipping. The price wasn't much more than many of the other 7" direct replacement (non-free float) handguards from Troy and other quality makers.
The DD Omega-X 12 FSP (factory installed on my DD M4 V1) is lighter, a bit thinner, and a bit nicer IMO. However, the Troy has to be a bit wider to allow leaving the old handguard cap underneath for easier installation. The Troy MRF has a more rounded shape than the DD Omega-X, which some may prefer. I'm fine with either, and the width difference is minor. While I really like the DD Omega, I also really like the Troy MRF. Ease of installation, and a 1/3 lower price tag are nice features of the MRF as well. Aside from weight the Troy unit compares very favorably to the DD Omega-X line in terms of fit, finish, and manufacturing quality. I also can't stress enough how much the new handguard set has helped with heat dissipation over the unshielded stock HG set.
Breakmyfootoff
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We're gonna have to have some pics with the new handguards
Breakmyfootoff
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That really looks good! Those guards that go past the front sight really change the way the gun looks. I had kinda already decided to just get a complete MOE furniture set for 100.00 and be done with it, but now I'm thinking about one of those 
. I think I also might go ahead and get an upper receiver with the dust cover and FA even though I dont really need it (I dont really NEED the furniture either for that matter lol).
. I think I also might go ahead and get an upper receiver with the dust cover and FA even though I dont really need it (I dont really NEED the furniture either for that matter lol).Acelaw
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Are these still available anywhere for $599?
Breakmyfootoff
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I have to go to Academy today, I'll check while I'm there.
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