Solvent Trap to Supressor Questions

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Acera

Acera

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With the impending rules change, I am considering filling out a couple of more electronic forms and sending in a chunk of cash to the ATF.

Currently I am not able to purchase the number of factory made suppressors, with the stamps I want. (I can get 5 stamps for about what 1 stamp and 1 can will cost.)

My plan is to do the paperwork, pay the stamp tax, wait for the approval and then purchase solvent trap parts to legally make into firearm suppressors.

However, I have seen some folks talking about this, but still have some questions I would like to get some answers to if I decide to do this.

FYI, I want to do this within the legal parameters, no exception. This will be high road all the way.



First question on the tubes. Is aluminum heat resistant enough for moderate 5.56/.300BLK shooting???? How much better is 7075-T6 over 6061-T6 for the tube? If I go titanium tube, is that a lot better for heat and durability or just weight?

Would aluminum baffles hold up? What about stainless steel? I am considering the storage cups over the freeze plug option.

(All my current cans are factory made and either steel or titanium, so aluminum is a bit worrisome for me on this regarding heat and durability.)

Are all interior dimensions, threading, etc. the same on 'D' sized tubes? Reason I ask, one company is offering a titanium tube, and they will do my trust engraving for an extra $25. However, they don't offer the cups I want to use.

If it would work, probably buy the titanium tube with the engraving from SD Tactical, then go to Roninpro for stainless steel cups and the end caps.

Looking at doing a 1.5 inch x 9.6 inch (or 11.6??) for the .300BLK, as that tube will fit under the rail, the 2 inch will not.

End goal is to have good sound suppression, fit into the budget constraints, and get the paperwork done in the next week or so. Weight is of lesser concern.

Kinda want to get the dimensions, materials, etc. settled now before I go farther for accurate filing.

Thanks for any advice.




.
 
You mean you can make a silencer out of one of those solvent trap gizmos? Who knew?
 
You can form 1 cans for them. Lots of folks have over the years. A few factors exist but a subsonic load from a 16" 300 blk will be a lot easier on a can than a factory .223 out of a 7.5" barrel.

If you just want to collect stamps and then make cans start your research, you have about 6 months. http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/ is a good place to start.
 
As Jmorris said, Silencer talk forums are the way to go. While there are knowledgeable people on THR, I've seen the moderators squash threads concerning suppressor builds.

They seem to still be in the old school mentality that those evil suppressors shouldn't be discussed in detail because someone might build one illegally. :)
 
Thanks guys, I will check them out.

I looked at Prepersdiscount yesterday also. Still concerned about the aluminum cups v. the stainless steel ones.

May have to call the companies that actually will talk to you about making a legal suppressor. (a few will not.)
 
In regards to the baffles I would stick with stainless steel or titanium if you're doing a rifle caliber. I can't imagine aluminum being any good on anything but a .22 can.

As far as the difference between 7075-T6 over 6061-T6, a quick search came up with a few pages that may be of value to you.

http://www.makeitfrom.com/compare/6061-T6-Aluminum/7075-T6-Aluminum/
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-...rence-between-7075-6061t6-aluminum-print.html
http://www.ehow.com/info_8078719_difference-between-6061-7075-aluminum.html
 
Thanks Ryanxia,

Can't get a membership on Silencer Talk, they don't approve of my email service providers. Can't use my real one for various other reasons. So if anyone has a suggestion that is not hotmail or gmail for them let me know.

However, been reading what I can and have decided that Aluminum, while light and easy to work with is probably not the best choice for a rifle.

I did find these, titanium storage cups, that might fit the bill. Expensive though.
https://zmachineworx.com/

Right now moving toward a titanium tube and stainless steel baffles. Don't know if any electrolysis or corrosion issues might pop up with them being in contact with each other.

.
 
That's a bummer. The only emails I use are hotmail & gmail. Guess I'll never be a member over there either.
 
Ive been a member at silencertalk for a decade. Great reference place although posts have slowed to a crawl for a number of reasons. Not tat hard to make up an alias email address from your ISP.

I always recommend Liberty suppressors for someone who wants a one off if you dont want to machine one yourself. David Saylor will work with you.

Yeah, dont use aluminum for a rifle..
 
Arizona_Mike said:
Not accepting gmail is absurd. I guess they don't want me as a member either . . .

Mike
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm sure that's why they are slowing down. Most people have gmail or hotmail accounts so probably not many new members. Most people aren't going to create another email just for one forum. And even if I had an email from my ISP it's sketchy that they want you to use that so I don't think I would. Oh well.
 
There's a valid reason for not accepting free e-mail accounts. It prevents spammers from registering.

Silencer Talk is a small site and doesn't really have the moderating resources of, say, The High Road.

That being said, the information provided there for people who want to build their own cans is fantastic.
 
Its a good site that isnt over moderated...like the high road. Discussions go where they go without the mean spirited nature of some sites like Arfcom etc. Its worth registering there even if you have to use a real email account.
 
yugorpk said:
Its worth registering there even if you have to use a real email account.
Click to expand...

Real email account? So the most common email providers such as Google are fake? :D

In any event, I've browsed there before and looked to be some knowledgeable people for sure. But in today's world, anonymity online is pretty important and no matter how good a forum is I don't see compromising that.

Of course, that's a benefit of having a friendly local gun shop to hang out at, to share ideas in person and see first hand what others have created and their suggestions and ideas.
 
Unless you have the absolute best gun shop or even the best silencer specific machine shop in the world to hang out at you arent going to have the level of silencer smithing experience to tap from that you'll find at silencertalk.
 
There's a guy on Silencer Talk that has several thousand full power 223 rounds thru a can with freeze plug baffles, but it has a steel tube. My Form 1 can in 30 caliber is a steel tube with freeze plugs and it sounds as good as my commercial can, but it's also 2" longer.

I might trust a commercial (warrantied) can with an AL tube like the Harvester, but for a homemade can I want the added safety margin of steel.
 
In regards to the baffles I would stick with stainless steel or titanium if you're doing a rifle caliber. I can't imagine aluminum being any good on anything but a .22 can.
Click to expand...

I have used aluminum for baffles for pistol calibers even full auto they work fine. Also used aluminum in my 458 socom can, works fine.
 
yugorpk said:
Unless you have the absolute best gun shop or even the best silencer specific machine shop in the world to hang out at you arent going to have the level of silencer smithing experience to tap from that you'll find at silencertalk.
Click to expand...

I am thinking of finding a work around for the email and sign up. On a borrowed computer for a few days, so probably not until early next week.


Elkins45 said:
There's a guy on Silencer Talk that has several thousand full power 223 rounds thru a can with freeze plug baffles, but it has a steel tube. My Form 1 can in 30 caliber is a steel tube with freeze plugs and it sounds as good as my commercial can, but it's also 2" longer.

I might trust a commercial (warrantied) can with an AL tube like the Harvester, but for a homemade can I want the added safety margin of steel.
Click to expand...

Did he use the cheap car freeze plugs? If so, I might do that on another build, I've seen those kits, but heard they did not work well and have heard they are good.

jmorris said:
I have used aluminum for baffles for pistol calibers even full auto they work fine. Also used aluminum in my 458 socom can, works fine.
Click to expand...

Were those the cup design?


Also, I have never worked with titanium. Can regular drill bits cut through it? Got a basic drill press set up. Like other boring jobs, I would go slow and use plenty of lube.(no jokes please:neener:)





.
 
from Acera
Also, I have never worked with titanium. Can regular drill bits cut through it? Got a basic drill press set up. Like other boring jobs, I would go slow and use plenty of lube.(no jokes please)
Click to expand...

Titanium machines beautifully. Don't use "lube", use a cooling fluid. Be aware that Titanium chips and sliver can be flammable to nearly the point of explosive if sparks are generated while machining, another reason to use a cooling fluid. (don't ask me how I know:uhoh:)
 
Were those the cup design?
Click to expand...

4130 tube with 4140 blast baffles and aluminum "K's.

9mm SMG can.

DSC01884.jpg

Permanently attached on a 9mm AR so just one stamp.
DSC01676.jpg

458 socom can
layout.jpg
 
Thanks plodder, I will get some cooling fluid, or can I use something like water for the 6 or 7 holes I will have to drill? (I use water as a coolant to cut ceramic.)

I like it jmorris, I have a good pistol can, but might make another one for future rifle use.
 
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