Some amateur leather work
- Thread starter igotta40
- Start date
Thanks for the suggestions!
Bazoo
Member
Cool. I like the multi tone look.
dfariswheel
Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2002
- Messages
- 6,656
That doesn't look like amateur work.
The stitching is very good and the design "works".
The stitching is very good and the design "works".
DustyGmt
Member
Looks great, obviously to one's own taste but I think it would look even more fantastic if you could darken that leather a bit more.
I agree, I have not yet learned dyeing.
DustyGmt
Member
I think there are leather treatment products like oils and other stuff on the market that will darken it up if it's rubbed in. But you may need a dye to get it darkened to the desired amount. I had some tan work boots that were a lil too bright for my taste, I wish I could remember what I rubbed into it but it darkened them up a bit. Ballistol will treat and darken it a lil too, but not by alot.
Either way it looks great. Nice job
westernrover
Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2018
- Messages
- 1,613
If you enjoy leatherwork, I recommend aiming for the highest quality and artistry. Hand-stitching can be tedious if you are producing a large quantity of product for sale, but if you're only making one for yourself or as a gift, it's worth hand-sewing. I use a method I learned in this book: The Art of Hand Sewing Leather by Al Stohlman. I recommend that book. The nylon cord you used could be replaced with leather cord, but you've got to watch out for quality if you buy it in a spool. You can make your own with a leather strip / strap cutter and then you'll know that it is of the best quality leather if you also source that. I can't tell what kind of leather or thread you used, but I would recommend Hermann Oak veg-tanned leather and Barbour linen thread. Use outstanding materials like these with the best methods like hand-sewing and you will have a product that is second-to-none.
Dying is not hard using Fiebings dye. The most common type is the alcohol based dyes. It may be easier to get even coverage on a large panel with these. The Fiebings Pro Dye is oil-based, and better but may be harder to get even color on a large area. I don't know because I've not tried to dye large panels on something like a saddle for example. For smaller areas, I've had no trouble with dyes. It is also correct that many leather conditioning products will darken the leather.
Neatsfoot oil will darken the leather and soften it, but can also damage stitching. Beeswax is safe for stitching, will darken leather somewhat and is a good protectant. There are some popular leather treatments that consist of beeswax and pine resin that are easy to apply -- Hubbard's Shoe Grease or Sno Seal. Either of those will darken the leather considerably. Most of the popular leather conditioners like Lexol or whatever are going to have some combination of neatsfoot oil, mink oil, mineral oil, beeswax, carnauba wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, pine resin, and mineral spirits. Ballistol, for example, is mostly mineral oil. Beeswax or microcrystalline wax (Renaissance Wax) are probably the most conservative ones. Try those first, but be aware that if you're going to dye, you'll want to dye before waxing. Rose Anvil that does a lot of boot stuff on YT showed that "Bicks" conditioner is less darkening. I got some and that seems to be the case -- sometimes you don't want to make it darker, and pretty much every leather product out there tends to do just that but by various degrees.
Dying is not hard using Fiebings dye. The most common type is the alcohol based dyes. It may be easier to get even coverage on a large panel with these. The Fiebings Pro Dye is oil-based, and better but may be harder to get even color on a large area. I don't know because I've not tried to dye large panels on something like a saddle for example. For smaller areas, I've had no trouble with dyes. It is also correct that many leather conditioning products will darken the leather.
Neatsfoot oil will darken the leather and soften it, but can also damage stitching. Beeswax is safe for stitching, will darken leather somewhat and is a good protectant. There are some popular leather treatments that consist of beeswax and pine resin that are easy to apply -- Hubbard's Shoe Grease or Sno Seal. Either of those will darken the leather considerably. Most of the popular leather conditioners like Lexol or whatever are going to have some combination of neatsfoot oil, mink oil, mineral oil, beeswax, carnauba wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, pine resin, and mineral spirits. Ballistol, for example, is mostly mineral oil. Beeswax or microcrystalline wax (Renaissance Wax) are probably the most conservative ones. Try those first, but be aware that if you're going to dye, you'll want to dye before waxing. Rose Anvil that does a lot of boot stuff on YT showed that "Bicks" conditioner is less darkening. I got some and that seems to be the case -- sometimes you don't want to make it darker, and pretty much every leather product out there tends to do just that but by various degrees.
NIGHTLORD40K
Member
Lookin good, whats that its on?
sparkyv
Member
100% agree. Great stitching.
It is a 28 gauge CZ Bobwhite, thanks for asking.
Thanks, the Juki machine came with a clutch motor. It ran too fast, about 3 inches/second, all wrong for my needs. I removed it and put in an adjustable servo motor. It will punch through a double layer of cowhide like it isn’t there.
