SP101 hammer and holster

[RexKwonDo]

I have an SP101 with a spurless hammer, but I was wanting to buy a hammer with the spur for it. However, I just found out that if I pull the hammer back by hand (after starting it out via the trigger), the hammer doesn't stay back. If I get the spurred hammer does it have another difference that will allow for double action, or would the gun require further modification? I bought it new by the way so I know if it can only be DAO it was Ruger that did it. My wife preferred the spurless, but now she would rather have a Para Hawg 9 so I'm getting the Ruger. If it's not as simple as just swapping hammers, I'll just leave it alone and live without cocking.

And my second question is what holster would you recommend for this gun? It has a 2 1/4" barrel, and it needs to stay concealed. I can wear whatever I want to work - usually cargo pants and a t-shirt, so I was thinking of an IWB holster, and making sure my shirts are long enough to cover even when I'm reaching up and such. Also might be interested in a pocket holster.

 

[Gideon]

Other's w/more technical knowledge will be along shortly to help I'm sure

But I can tell you that the gun you have is likely made DAO, Double Action Only. In other words, it doesn't have the guts to be DAO and SA, Single Action. I don't know if a gunsmith can add the internal piece to make it both but I suspect they can. However, If you're using this only for self defense and would ever carry it in a pocket, then the hammer only gets in the way. If you decide to cock it so you can fire more accurately at a longer range you'll be opening yourself up to significant liabilities if you ever do so in a real shoot.

Also, as for carrying at work, I'd recommend you get wooden grips. They'll make the recoil worse but your T Shirt won't grab or stick on the stock rubber grips. This is important when bending over and then straightening up or when reaching over head, otherwise your shirt can get "hung" on the grip and cause a printing issue big time

Just some food for thought. The gun you have is heavy and thick through the cylinder which presents two challenges when trying to conceal. There are small autos that would conceal easier. But I'm sure you have your reasons for selecting a revolver.

God Bless
Gideon

 

[RexKwonDo]

I'm not too worried about printing. That would only tell that I have something on my belt, but who doesn't? I work as a programmer and so am not moving around and interacting with people too much. I'll keep that in mind though if the rubber does present a problem. Also I've carried Mexican just for several minutes to see how the size and weight would feel. Aside from this, I carry a 1911 sometimes (never at work) that I conceal under my leather jacket.

Also I realized that there's another thread up here that somewhat addresses both of my issues - I got here by finding that thread in Google results, and just assumed (wrongly) it wasn't too recent. My apologies for bringing up a new thread instead of adding to that.

 

[Jeff F]

I think that all you need is a new hammer. I'd give Ruger a call and ask them. They have the parts on hand and could probably do the job cheaper but you also have to consider shipping costs.

 

[ronto]

I would just leave it DAO. It's not designed to be a "target" gun and when you need it for SD you probably won't be cocking the hammer anyway and it's better to familiarize yourself and practice in
DAO mode.
I carry mine IWB crossdraw and in my jeans front pocket when I'm not concerned with the print.

 

[brett30030]

If you decide to cock it so you can fire more accurately at a longer range you'll be opening yourself up to significant liabilities if you ever do so in a real shoot.

Can you explain or back that up? I would be very interested in your resources for that information.

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

However, I just found out that if I pull the hammer back by hand (after starting it out via the trigger), the hammer doesn't stay back.

It's a double-action-only (DAO); there is no single-action cocking notch on this model. As far as holsters are concerned, the presence or absence of a hammer makes no difference if the holster is open-topped. If you want to carry it in a holster that requires a safety strap (shoulder, most ankle, etc.) then you want a hammer spur.

 

[Gideon]

Regarding the quote about cocking to be more accurate at longer range, there were several cases I've ready but can't find that this became an issue in, however, by way of explanation, concealed carry is considered to be strictly defensive. In my state (MO) you have a burden to show you were in fear of grave bodily harm or even death. When shoots occur, from the general reading I've been doing, our actions are examined to see if we contributed to an escalation in the situation or if we could have walked/run away, although Florida has passed the law says you don't have to flee and can still be justified in shooting.

Anyway, If I cock a weapon with the idea of being more accurate at longer ranges that it invites a suite that claims that I should have considered breaking off the engagement.

I'll humbly concead that this is just my opion based on a lot of general reading. If we modify our weapons and lighten the trigger pull there may be someone who will sue if we shoot saying that was negligent on our part. In other words, the more we modify weapons, the greater the distance when we use deadly force, the greater the risk we run that in an real shoot someone will try to use those factors against us even if they really aren't relavent.

So I'm sorry if I came off sounding like a forum lawyer so something but there are a lot of lawyers, prosecuting attorneys, etc. who don't like our right and are anxious to see guilt in our actions to defend ourselves so anything that could be remotely construed as anything but purely defensive might cause some risk.

I tried to find one case I read about a guy who cocked a J frame and ended up shooting a bad guy who was attempting a robbery. The guy lived and no criminal charges were brought up against the guy who shot and wounded the BG, however, the BG sued the guy for neglegence becasue of the "hair" trigger of the weapon in SA and he won a civil suit against the guy.

I've read recommendations from some folks (not authorities that I know of) to convert revolvers to double action only with factory pull weights because it contributes to the notion that we're only thinking defensive.

Personally, I believe there's risk in everything we do and if we ever do use our weapons I believe there's a very high probability we'll be involved in a civil suite if not brought up initially on criminal charges. I also am under the conviction that "perception" plays more of a role in court than it ought to be so I feel it's in our best interests to be somewhat concerned with the perception our mode of carry creates or the choices we make regarding concealed carry.

Hope this helps clarify my position and again, sorry if I came off sounding like I thought myself some type of authority.

I do stand by my modest opinion that if the shoot is righteous that I'll probably be shooting double action and that if I have some opportunity to shoot at longer distances where I'm inclined to cock so I'm more accurate in SA, then perhaps I should be retreating or taking cover if possible.

Anyway, God Bless...
Gideon

 

[RyanM]

Ruger won't sell you a hammer; you have to mail the gun in for them to fit it to the gun. You may be able to find one in a gun parts place, but I'd recommend against it. Just trying to drop in a hammer, without fitting it, may result in unsafe function.

 

[Coltdriver]

Its a hammer only swap. Ruger will do it for about $50.00

You will have a heck of a time finding a hammer to swap in yourself and there is a legitimate need to have it done properly by a smith. Ruger will not sell the part by itself. They want to fit a replacement to your revolver.

I have a DAO GP100. I too want to get the sa/da hammer. When I do I am going to bob the hammer a bit, but not as much as the dao version.

 

[Thed]

Funny this thread came up.

If you check eBay, you can occaisonally find DA/SA GP100 hammers for sale. I found one within the past week for $31 delivered (using BuyItNow).

I really like the GP100 platform. If I could find more of them, I would buy a couple more, and be patient in finding new grips and hammers for them.

I bought mine from Century Arms for under $200 along with a S&W Model 65-2.

These are how I received them.

I glass bead blasted the S&W. I have been meaning to get around to the Ruger... but just have not. I did replace the ugly painted red SP101 grip with a like new GP100 grip I found on eBay. The real PITA is finding the hammer kit for it. But that is a Ruger Factory restricted part.. so its more a matter of the parts cross my path than me find them.

Above is the bead blasted S&W Mdl65 with the orignal pattern wood grips. I like the stainless and wood look. Those are the original style of grips for the S&W Mdl 65-2. So I am glad I have found them.

The "restored" look above is exactly why I like stainless revolvers. I am always now on the hunt for police trade in revolvers. Specifically so I can bead blast them and clean them up. The blast media leaves a matte stainless look I like alot. I never really did like glossy polished stainless.

So, I guess now, any revolver I get (assuming its not a steal/deal) will be stainless. Mostly because I can beat it up after years of use... then strip it down and smooth it all out. Obviously I have to mask off and be careful of the critcal areas. But other than that its pretty easy.


Below is the GP100 after it was bead blasted matte stainless with the DA/SA hammer installed: