Stainless pistol cleaning questions
- Thread starter Waterboy3313
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CajunBass
Member
I stopped using plain lead bullets and went to plated. Not near as much cleanup hassle. I don't know if that's your problem or not however.
I'd use a little Flitz polish (apply with finger, lightly buff off, by hand, with a clean rag). Then I'd wax the entire gun with Renaissance Wax. The wax seems to make cleanup easier.
I'd use a little Flitz polish (apply with finger, lightly buff off, by hand, with a clean rag). Then I'd wax the entire gun with Renaissance Wax. The wax seems to make cleanup easier.
HPCadm17
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There must be big differences in lead-removal cloths. I couldn't find Lead-Away locally but the store had the Hoppes version. I used it on the cylinder face of my 686 and after tons of scrubbing it barely made a difference. Unless the Lead-Away is vastly different, I'm not sold on it. The only thing that worked was soaking the face in CLP for a couple hours and attacking with a stiff nylon brush. I could have used more aggressive methods but I was shy about altering the finish.
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Waterboy3313
Member
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I'm planning on going shooting this morning. If I have time today or this weekend I will be going shopping for some different cleaning products. I will report back with the results.
walnut1704
Member
Those will do what you want. I use them quite a bit. Also they make great gun cleaning patches. Next time you clean your gun wait until you're done and then run a patch of that cloth down the barrel with a jagged tip.
Shak3s1977
Member
There is a big difference. This one works great but only use it on stainless steel. I cut it in 1x1 inch squares. Even when they get black they still work. The right side is about 1 minute of rubbing on my Vaquero cylinder with the lead cloth cut into a square. The left side was with a bronze brush and Hoppes #9 and lots of scrubbing. I'm hooked.
RealGun
Member
Your blued guns have the same thing. You just don't see it. Until the cylinder gap is affected, it is harmless in my experience. However, moments ago and on Wednesday I cleaned a stainless cylinder face with copper scrubber, and it took little time to get down to stainless color. I have a lead remover,stainless polisher cloth, but the cylinder face is too dirty to foul the cloth, and it takes too long. Good finisher though.
Riomouse911
Member
As some of the guys have said; a tube of Flitz and an old rag and the gun looks like new in about ten minutes. No more chamber rings, no carbon residue on the outside of the cylinder, etc. I don’t use it often, only when a stainless gun needs a good going over.
Once it’s all clean I’ll use a bit of Mothers mag wheel cleaner and a soft cloth to really spiff a stainless gun up.
Stay safe.
Once it’s all clean I’ll use a bit of Mothers mag wheel cleaner and a soft cloth to really spiff a stainless gun up.
Stay safe.
Anything you use for a light cleaning then?
And all of this stuff is safe for the finish I'm assuming?
These work well.
I've used metal polish for years on stainless revolvers with no adverse effects.
Never clean the gun? Eventually that crud cakes up enought to cause problems.
A clean gun is a happy gun and a happy gun will take care of you.
Riomouse911
Member
For regular cleanings, in the bore and cylinder I use a good bore brush and hoppes, then finish with patches until it’s good.
On the exteriors I just wipe down with a “ dirty” rag first to get the surface crud off, then I’ll use an old bore brush and some hoppes on the cylinder faces and cylinder sides etc. before a second “ dirty” rag wipes it all up. Then I finish with a “clean” rag and then a lightly oiled one before put-away. This still leaves the cylinder rings, etc.
(As rags age, they go from clean to second dirty to first dirty duties. My favorite “rags” are cloth diapers. Those last for ages!)
When I want those gone and everything cleaned it’s Flitz time, and if I want it pimp-gun shiny it gets the Mother’s treatment.
Stay safe.
On the exteriors I just wipe down with a “ dirty” rag first to get the surface crud off, then I’ll use an old bore brush and some hoppes on the cylinder faces and cylinder sides etc. before a second “ dirty” rag wipes it all up. Then I finish with a “clean” rag and then a lightly oiled one before put-away. This still leaves the cylinder rings, etc.
(As rags age, they go from clean to second dirty to first dirty duties. My favorite “rags” are cloth diapers. Those last for ages!)
When I want those gone and everything cleaned it’s Flitz time, and if I want it pimp-gun shiny it gets the Mother’s treatment.
Stay safe.
HPCadm17
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Excellent, thanks. I will have to look for one of these and give it a try next time.
Jim Rau
member
This brought back a chuckle from the past. In the early 70's the Colo State Patrol went to the S&W 66 and friend of mine was telling me how he cleaned it. He said he simply took fo the (wood) grips and put it in the dishwasher!
Well Craig was not a 'gun guy', as most cops aren't, so he ask me what I thought. I told him if he did this he MUST make sure it was dry and he MUST remove the side plate and check for debris (crap) from the dish washer and lube it. I advised him NOT to do this and eventually was able to show him the proper way to clean his gun.
Well Craig was not a 'gun guy', as most cops aren't, so he ask me what I thought. I told him if he did this he MUST make sure it was dry and he MUST remove the side plate and check for debris (crap) from the dish washer and lube it. I advised him NOT to do this and eventually was able to show him the proper way to clean his gun.
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stonebuster
Member
On my stainless GP100 I clean the face of the cylinder with a nylon brush and Hoppes. Before cleaning I spray it down with CLP and let sit for a while.I get enough off to keep the build up to a minimum to prevent binding. I shoot cheap FMJ but the sides of my cylinder still get pretty stained after 100 rounds but it comes completely off using the nylon brush and Hoppes. I do use Renaissance Wax and it seems to make clean up easier and it's non-abrasive Using Mother's or other abrasive polishes may give you more of a mirrored finish than you want.
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Waterboy3313
Member
I just got home from shooting and have not cleaned anything yet. I won't tell you how many rounds I shot this morning because I honestly don't know yet. I will be sorting the brass later today and will post then.
I had a great shooting trip. I just bought a 12"X1/2" AR 500 gong and some hooks and brackets that use EMT conduit that I tried out for the first time. I measured out 60 yards and set it up. Mostly shooting lead today and ran out some jacketed rounds at the end to hopefully knock out some lead residue.
I had a great shooting trip. I just bought a 12"X1/2" AR 500 gong and some hooks and brackets that use EMT conduit that I tried out for the first time. I measured out 60 yards and set it up. Mostly shooting lead today and ran out some jacketed rounds at the end to hopefully knock out some lead residue.
Targa
Member
Ahhh, that looks like a good range day to me. Yes sir, hand loads and a dirty revolver.....looks like your doing it right to me. I’ll guess a couple hundred rounds?
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Waterboy3313
Member
About 130 just laid it out and separated it getting ready to deprimed and clean.
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
WOW! That’s a dirty revolver!
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Waterboy3313
Member
About 130 just laid it out and separated it getting ready to deprimed and clean.
View attachment 888486
View attachment 888486
.38 Special
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I am another one who uses the Birchwood Casey lead cloth with excellent results.
So this lead remover cloth wouldn't be good for a blued gun?
It can remove bluing.
deadeye dick
Member
This brought back a chuckle from the past. In the early 70's the Colo State Patrol went to the S&W 66 and friend of mine was telling me how he cleaned it. He said he simply took fo the (wood) grips and put it in the dishwasher!
im the proper w
I was drafted into the US Army in1961. Took my basic at Ft. Dix N.J. The preferred way to clean the M1 Garand was to take into the shower and soak it down with HOT water. This washed all thee crud and sand out of it and the hot water evaporated quickly. Followed up with a good oiling.
Eddietruett
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I use titegroup but mostly for low end .38 special loads. It shoots fairly clean, and maybe a little cleaner than Bullseye, but nothing is going to shoot real clean with regular lead. I'm betting if you go to Missouri Bullets and but a few 100 round sample bags of a few bullets you like, you will never shoot a uncoated lead bullet again. You might even find they will take the place of the Jacketed bullets unless you are using the XTP for hunting or defense. You can pretty much shoot the HiTek Coated bullets as hot as jacketed. I've run some 130gr through my 8 3/8" Model 686 in the 1600-1700fps range and not a hint of leading. You are still going to get some of the carbon on the gun but either jacketed or plated will cut it back considerably.
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