Starting, light load for Pietta 1858 brassy Remington .44 please?

[Tallbald]

A friend at work maybe 12 years ago sold me this particular gun for $100, including a cheap leather holster that I gave to another friend (I make my own flap holsters). I have a couple beautiful stainless Ruger Old Army's and just never fired this pristine Pietta. Since it uses a different size ball and cap from my Rugers and I just never saw the need to try.
I would like to share that this Pietta impresses me. The bluing is deep, even and flawless. Fit and finish of the gun is wonderful and I really believe it is unfired. Even the internals are clean and appear untouched.
I use exclusively Triple 7, 3F equivalent propellant.
Please suggest a low power load that may give me good accuracy and longer life for this brass frame beauty.
Thank you all as always. Don

 

[Captain*kirk]

Don, a suitable load for a brass .36 would be 15-18gr 3F, with 20gr being max. .44 would be 18-20gr. 3F with 25gr being max. Triple 7 max loads should be reduced by 15% over 3F loads, according to Hodgdon. I would not recommend T7 in a brasser; if you can't get 3F black powder, I'd recommend Pyrodex P rather than T7 as Pyro P measures by volume grain for grain the same as 3F black powder.

 

[Tallbald]

Thank you very much. I had wondered about the T7 in a brass frame revolver but not yet seen specifics about T7 for this gun. I'd considered just selling this beautiful revolver locally, since it's a different caliber, cap size and I now see preferentially a different propellant from my own Ruger Old Army loads. I believe that's the best route for me. Just place it in a good home.
Could somebody suggest a fair price to ask for this gun please? I see they are on backorder with many retailers.
Thank you again. Don

 

[1KPerDay]

I wouldn’t pay more than $150 personally. YMMV

 

[paul harm]

I shot in matches for 15 years with a steel frame NMA 44 at 25yds with 20grs of 3F. The load was upped to 25 grs at 50yds. With light loads you also need a filler - corn meal is good. In a brasser maybe even less. Maybe 15 to 18 grains.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

That's the problem for me, you shouldn't load the gun to its real potential with the brass frame it you want it to last. Mouse fart loads are no fun or real use other than punching holes in paper.

 

[noelf2]

You can use .457 balls in the brasser, but I recommend you don't use the ram on the gun. Use a separate loader. I only use .457 round balls for all of my .44 repro revolvers, and my ROA. Just cuts a bigger lead ring.

Mouse fart loads are no fun or real use other than punching holes in paper.

Light loads are great for punching a nice hole in a rabbit, and will take a squirrels head clean off. Light loads are generally (but not always) more accurate for me anyways.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

This is true, however where one hunts also determines the range. Point being that those light loads work great in the woods but out in open desert on skittish game you might not get closer than 30 or 40 yards. In my case getting a shot under those ranges is pretty rare. I want that extra bit of oomph to reach out and touch them.

 

[Tallbald]

Thank you all for the replies and thoughts. I do believe I'll ask around among friends to test interest in taking home this handsome gun. Perhaps it would be just the ticket for someone. Don

 

[Mike OTDP]

I'd try 15 grains. Be ready to go down if necessary. For a long time, my 25-yard match load was 9 grains. Worked great on paper targets. I only went to 15 because I switched guns.

 

[noelf2]

This is true, however where one hunts also determines the range. Point being that those light loads work great in the woods but out in open desert on skittish game you might not get closer than 30 or 40 yards. In my case getting a shot under those ranges is pretty rare. I want that extra bit of oomph to reach out and touch them.

Good try, but "where one hunts" wasn't in your proclamation. I find very good use for light loads.

 

[hdbiker]

A few years ago, Cabelas was selling their1851 Colt Navy brass framed revolvers in .44 cal. for 150.00. I bought one and still haven't fired it...LOL. Maybe this summer.

 

[gobsauce]

A few years ago, Cabelas was selling their1851 Colt Navy brass framed revolvers in .44 cal. for 150.00. I bought one and still haven't fired it...LOL. Maybe this summer.

Good luck finding components! I have yet to find any powder, primers or projectiles locally.

 

[Lyle]

Good luck finding components! I have yet to find any powder, primers or projectiles locally.

Have you a Cabela’s, Bass Pro or Sportsman’s Warehouse close. I have normally found Pyrodex and balls at these local stores. I make my own caps.

 

[SomebodyMakeRiderRepro]

I highly dissuade using T7 in a brasser. It burns differently than black powder and will most likely result in an accelerated deterioration of the gun.

If you can get your hands on real black powder I suggest starting with 12 grains and working your way up to the maximum of 20 grains. Many people report that they successfully shoot theirs with a 25 grain charge but I've seen coining on the recoil shield developing with such a charge. 20 grains should be a reasonable maximum to ensure coining will not be an issue any time soon. Obviously with a roundball you will need some kind of a filler with such puny load, cornmeal works well. Heavier conical bullets would remove the need for filler more or less but I speak highly against using them in a brasser because they will also negate the benefits of using weak loads with heavier pressures and heavier recoiling cylinder hitting the frame.

In my opinion by buying a brasser you limit yourself more or less to shooting paper. If you want the gun to have more oomph in my humble opinion you need to ditch the brasser alltogether and get yourself steel.

 

[tinhorn]

Just place it in a good home.

This isn't one of those 12" Bisons, is it? The last open spots on my wall are reserved for a Pietta Bison and 4" NAA Earl.

 

[Tallbald]

No tinhorn this is just a garden variety 8 inch barrel beauty. Don