Sticky 1911 Slide

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Tinkerer

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Nov 22, 2004
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Howdy, folks. Yes, I'm one of those kitchen-table tinkerers, and proud of it. My philosophy is that no one was born a gunsmith, they had to learn. If they can learn, so can I. But, I also read, listen, and defer to the experts before I try something, which included purchasing the correct tools. Yup, I've messed up some, but that's part of learning. Ok, to my question.

I recently purchased a Federal Ordnance 1911 government model. When I installed a full-length recoil spring guide the slide bound up in the full recoil position. It stuck open! A sharp rap with the heel of my hand on the back of the slide allows it to move forward into battery. If I put a Wilson shok buff on the guide I don't have this problem. Any suggestions?
 
Tinkerin'

Howdy Tinkerer,

Sounds like the guide rod is the problem...or maybe the specs in the slide or frame
don't allow for a FLGR due to putting a side-load on the rod. You can paint the rod with a chisel-point magic marker and see where the bind is from the spot that rubs the ink off, but about the only possible cure is to create a little more clearance by lathe-turning the rod or increasing the size of the hole in the plug
a little. Most Guide rods are right around .323 inch diameter, and the plug holes
are about .003 inch larger. Another .003 might do the trick...but it also might not...
depending on how much lateral misalignment there is between the slide and the guide rod. You also may be able to see the rod shift when hand-cycling.

It could also be that the impact surface in the end of the spring tunnel isn't square and true, which causes the rod to shift sideways and put it into a bind when the gslide is in recoil...which would pretty much kill the effort to create clearance by turning the rod or boring out the hole in the plug. The shift would still occur, and more clearance would just let it shift further.

Also a distinct possibility that the head is a little oversized for the spring tunnel or the slide, and the slide is making drag contact in recoil that you don't see when the gun is in battery because the slide probably has some vertical play in that position. With the recoil spring and plug removed...pull the slide slowly to the rear to find exactly where the bind starts. Color the head with the marker and
find the tight spot. Use a dial caliper to compare the dimensions between the head on the FLGR and your OEM guide rod...You might find that there's quite a bit of difference. No such thing as a (guaranteed) drop-in part, I'm 'fraid.

Best advice that I can give ya is to sell the FLGR to somebody who wants one and
stick with the standard system. The pistol doesn't run any better with a FLGR
unless it's nearly worn out, and even then...the difference is minimal.

Luck to ya...and welcome aboard!

Tuner
 
Thanks, Tuner.

Thanks for the help, Tuner. Sounds like the best thing to do is eliminate the FLRG. I'm new to this forum, and so far my company hasn't blocked it, but that may come soon. I'm also looking at the length of the barrel link based on your other discussions and descriptions, since it looks like an oversized link was installed by the previous owner. I've done some of my own trigger work using the Marvel's jig from Brownell's. I've been very pleased with the results using that jig. Have a happy Thanksgiving, Tuner, and everyone else reading.
 
Many Thanks

Thanks again, Tuner. I'll check this out when I get home tonight. I've always been one to share my hobbies and knowledge, and I appreciate when I meet someone else who does also.
 
WHOOPS!

ROFL! Brainfart time...I posted a reply to your thread while I was workin' on another one and gottem all mixed up. :rolleyes: Ignore my last post...the one about the link. I'll cut and paste it to the other thread and delete it here.

Lordy...And it's only Monday. :rolleyes:
 
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