Sturdy Safe vs. Browning Copper Gun Safe - Pondering...

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As a gun safe manufacturer, I would certainly make that investment. You would be the only one that would sell a UL rated product, which would carry substantial weight in the market place.

Thanks for your input. What I was talking about is the fire testing done on gun safes is from independent labs such as omega and others that are NOT UL. UL does have accurate testing, BUT the UL sticker on gun safes usually means that either the sheet rock is UL listed, or the safe has got a UL listing for home security container, which is a very weak test. We have tool boxes that would pass for a home security container.

What has been proven, is that any insulation that releases moisture to the interior of a heated safe will protect its contents better than insulation’s that do not release moisture. Ceramic wool’s are dry. I'm not saying they don't offer some degree of protection, but they will not provide the same protection that a standard gypsum based insulation on any common fire safe that carries a UL rating. Does it provide the same or better protection as sheet rock? Maybe, or maybe not. Neither of them would pass the UL test, so it doesn't really matter. The majority of gun safes are not going to protect their contents in a substantial fire, regardless of what insulation they use.

I should have elaborated that more... they dont work in the quantities that are practical in a gun safe. If you would like to put 4 layers of sheet rock ( with gaps in each layer) will that work? Don't know... never tested that, we did test two layers, but layer after layer of sheetrock gets you less interior space and more weight.

Do you honestly think super heated steam dose not hurt the contents of the safe? Did you know the storing instructions for sheet rock require a dry climate? What do you think happens to it when it does start steaming? This old school tech of using moisture is ok with small money safes, because superheated steam dose not hurt money. They do not have a good rep with arson investigators or fire chiefs. Furthermore, the moisture requirement for a safe as big as a gun safe would be far greater than these small money safes. To achieve the same performance you would have to have 3x’s the thinkness of these small safes. Another probelm in fire rated sheetrock or other stuff we have read about that has been used simply will not hold enough moisture to have any influence on the inside temperatures. Super headed steam is damaging. I thought everyone knows this already. I burnt my hand one time with steam... am i the only one?

Instead of using common sense, why don't we use real life experience. I have been in the safe and vault business for over 15 years. I sell, service, install, repair, and open safes on a daily basis. I deal with everything from small imported fire safes to 20 ton vault doors. I have seen safe burglarized and burned. I have broken into many myself.
I can not speak for your company, but I can say that many gun safe manufacturers have no experience in the safe business at all. They build a product because it's marketable, and for no other reason. Because of this lack of experience, they build a product that is easily defeated, and sell them to unsuspecting consumers.I will give credit to your company for using thicker steels than are commonly seen on gun safes. However, thicker steel is only one part of a very big equation.

We did use real life experience. We even used sheetrock with ceramic and it did not work. We also used 2 layers of sheetrock, with dead air space, and in real life it failed miserably. In your response to some gun safe mfg. selling hoop-la instead of real security, I agree. A good safes needs 3 things. the better these 3 things are, the better the safe. They are: Thick steel, a smart locking system, and abusive resistance. With these three things, in good quantities, will generally produce a decent safe.
 
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What about putting an insulating blanket of some kind on the outside of the safe? Would that help any, or be a waste of time?
I talked to my father about that and he simply states: "Proper application of insulation is as important as the liner it's self"
So to answer your question, I wouldn't do it if I were you, but you can give us a call at 800-262-0023 and Terry could give you a few ideas of how to insulate the safe yourself if you like.
 
So, to throw a little Devil's Advocate into the mix, why spend more for an insulated gun safe (RSC type, not the very high $$$, super-heavy, built-like-a-small-fortress true safe type) if, as some appear to be saying (and I apologize if I'm mis-interpreting), the fire lining really won't do much to truly protect the firearms and stuff inside from damage? Understanding that there is no "average fire" with all the variables involved - house construction, time to detection, FD response time, duration and intensity of the fire in the immediate area of the RSC, etc., etc., can one at least make a reasonable assumption (yeah, I know....) that a well-built fire lined RSC can provide some survivable (read that as mostly undamaged) level of protection in home fires that are detected early, responded to and extiguished quickly, whose intensity doesn't reach anywhere near catostrophic, total burndown levels? (whoa, gotta take a breath after that sentence...) Or is "fireproofing a gun safe is a waste of money" really the case? The point about smoke and gasses getting past the door seal and causing damage is understood too - a tight door and reliable seal is a requirement.

My interest in lining other than gypsum/fireboard isn't so much that I “discount something simple like gypsum just because some newer high tech product is being touted” (obviously Ft. Knox and other higher quality manufacturers - as well as experienced folks here - believe it provides some worthwhile protection). It's that, as has also been described here, it's a lining that's eventually degraded by the heat that it's supposed to protect from (by releasing moisture as it's heated). Since the heat protection needs to extend beyond the actual duration of the fire itself (cool-down time), it would seem to me that an fiber/wool-type insulation lining would theoretically provide longer, more consistent protection from the heat since it's construction is not being degraded by the heat (at least not until it's combustion temp is reached by glowing red steel, which by then everything inside has been long toasted anyway). I think back to a Liberty Safe video I saw awhile back (I know, sales propaganda) touting the superiority of their safes over an un-named competitor in a side-by-side oven comparision. What stuck with me wasn't that the Liberty came out looking pretty good (as expected from sales propaganda), it was the collapsed interior/lining of the competitor. While an intense, long duration fire would likey exceed the ability of any RSC fire insulator/lining combination to keep the interior temp below a survivable level, I would think that a wool/woven (or even a gypsum-based) lining supported by an interior steel liner would have a better chance of lasting longer and hopefully provide longer protection.

As a side note, I've mostly decided that I won't go with the Browning - while it seems to be well made and attractive for a typical RSC, the Sturdy offers more of what I'm slowly determining are the desirable qualities of a RSC/gun safe (for me). However, I recently got some info/pricing on Amsec safes - the BF series looks good with the Drylight insulation, inner liner, and 10 guage body. Unfortunately the weight is a concern. Decisions, decisions....
 
What I was talking about is the fire testing done on gun safes is from independent labs such as omega and others that are NOT UL. UL does have accurate testing, BUT the UL sticker on gun safes usually means that either the sheet rock is UL listed, or the safe has got a UL listing for home security container, which is a very weak test.

I agree 100%

should have elaborated that more... they dont work in the quantities that are practical in a gun safe. If you would like to put 4 layers of sheet rock ( with gaps in each layer) will that work? Don't know... never tested that, we did test two layers, but layer after layer of sheetrock gets you less interior space and more weight.

There are some companies that use that much, if not more, sheetrock in their safes. They claim it works, and maybe it does. Most safes with two layers are claiming a 45 to 60 minute rating. Again, I think this depends on the specific circumstances of the fire.

Truthfully, I would never store any items requiring protection from a fire in a gun safe.

Do you honestly think super heated steam dose not hurt the contents of the safe? Did you know the storing instructions for sheet rock require a dry climate? What do you think happens to it when it does start steaming?

Steam certainly can damage contents. I am also the first to say that even a UL rated container can have damaged contents.

The theory behind a fireproof container is to leave important records in useable condition. It doesn't matter if the paper is browned or charred, so long as you can read it. Fireproof safes were never designed, nor intended, to keep their contents in 100% pristine condition, in every case, after a severe fire.

This old school tech of using moisture is ok with small money safes, because superheated steam dose not hurt money. They do not have a good rep with arson investigators or fire chiefs

Money safes usually have little or no fireproofing. Some of them are concrete clad, but that is to make them heavy more so than fire resistant. Burned money can be traded for good money with the Feds.

I've seen many photos of burned safes in addition to the safes that I've personally encountered. UL rated firesafes have outperformed gun safes by a wide margin.

Another problem in fire rated sheetrock or other stuff we have read about that has been used simply will not hold enough moisture to have any influence on the inside temperatures. Super headed steam is damaging. I thought everyone knows this already. I burnt my hand one time with steam... am i the only one?

That's probably true, and why you only see sheetrock used in gun safes. Of course, most gun safes get steam inside of them in a fire, and it's not coming from the insulation. It's coming from the water being sprayed on the fire. The fire has to get pretty close to the safe before the seals swell, and the steam and other chemicals typically enter the safe before that happens.

A good safes needs 3 things. the better these 3 things are, the better the safe. They are: Thick steel, a smart locking system, and abusive resistance. With these three things, in good quantities, will generally produce a decent safe

I'm in 100% agreement here as well.

why spend more for an insulated gun safe (RSC type, not the very high $$$, super-heavy, built-like-a-small-fortress true safe type) if, as some appear to be saying (and I apologize if I'm mis-interpreting), the fire lining really won't do much to truly protect the firearms and stuff inside from damage?

Some history and opinion:

Gun safes originally had no fireproofing. They were simply steel boxes with gun racks on the inside.

At some point, manufacturers realized that although the male wanted the safe, a purchase of that size had to be approved by a female. In order to make the sale of the safe more appealing to the female, the figured they had to convince her it was useful for her as well.

Voila! Your multipurpose residential vault was born. Look at your catalogs, and pay close attention to the photos of what is being stored in the safes. A few guns...and a lot of wedding albums, silverware, and women's jewelry.

Or is "fireproofing a gun safe is a waste of money" really the case? The point about smoke and gasses getting past the door seal and causing damage is understood too - a tight door and reliable seal is a requirement.

For a gun safe, it's a waste of money, unless you're buying a high end unit. The Graffunders are built quite a bit nicer than your average gun safe, but they also have a price tag that goes along with that quality.

I've always said that gun safes are for guns. Anything else you're looking to protect needs to go into something specifically designed for that task. Computer media and photographs go in a media safe. Documents go in a document safe. Valuables go in a burglary safe. There are some safes that incorporate more than one type of protection, but they aren't cheap.

If it's something that must be as fireproof and theftproof as possible, then your best bet is a bank vault in a safe deposit box.

I would rather see a gun safe company eliminate the mostly useless fire protection, and make up for the reduced weight with thicker steels.
 
I want to get this off my chest before I explode. I have looked at two competitors of ours that rank as high as we do in popularity, and they list the temp as well as the length of time their safes will last in a fire, yet they haven't tested their safes at all! Not by a testing company or in a real life situation. How can someone make up a time like that?! I talked to them over the phone and that is exactly what they did. It's obvious that their insulators wont work for as long as some of them claim. One of them uses sheetrock with 1/2 inch ceramic and claim 2300 at 60 minutes LOL! Where are the wistle blowers when you need them!?
 
Wow I was really really hoping to see some reviews by some of the owners of these safes. Instead I see a pissing contest between a manufacturer and serviceman. Yeah... I scoured the net reading all these posts, even yours A1ABDJ at thefiringline.com from someone else looking for safe advice. It seem's you don't like any safe and spend life bashing every single manufacturer. I'm not sure what your out to accomplish, maybe you've been jaded by one, mislead by another, or maybe you hate your job- got it. You have contributed nothing and ruined yet another good thread with good intent with your, "all safe's are crap" mentality. Now please, let other people give their advice and input. Thank you!!!:mad:
 
Hmm... I enjoy a1abdj's insight. I bought a RSC, but at least i knew what I was buying, which was not hype, gloss finish, and unrealistic expectations. The RSC fits my budget and needs (I hope).

Keep posting a1abdj!
 
Fella's;

Seems we've got a new member, 1 post, who feels that A1a does nothing but bash.

I'm also a safe professional, a locksmith who specializes in safes. In my professional opinion, Ajabdj calls 'em as he sees 'em, and I don't have too many arguments with his posts. Why? Because he knows of what he speaks, and for that matter, so do I.

In other words Ian, if it floats & stinks we both have a hard time calling it a rose.

900F
 
Wow I was really really hoping to see some reviews by some of the owners of these safes.

What type of reviews did you want? There's not many people in here who have had their safes burglarized or burned in a fire. As such, they have little input regarding how well their safes work. I know how they work, because I see it all day long.

Instead I see a pissing contest between a manufacturer and serviceman.

I wouldn't call it a pissing match. If you read closely, you'll actually see that her and I agree in many respects.

Yeah... I scoured the net reading all these posts, even yours A1ABDJ at thefiringline.com from someone else looking for safe advice. It seem's you don't like any safe and spend life bashing every single manufacturer.

I don't bash manufacturers. I bash their outlandish claims. Their products are what they are.

I'm not sure what your out to accomplish, maybe you've been jaded by one, mislead by another, or maybe you hate your job- got it.

I'm out to educate consumers. Many people buying these products are living with a false sense of security. So long as people know the limitations of what they are buying, they may make an educated decision, and live with the risk.

When you are expecting your purchase to perform in a certain way, and it doesn't, then you're going to be feeling pretty bad afterwords.

As far as hating my job...well I don't really have a job. I own the company. I also own, or have owned: nightclubs, a limousine service, a reposession company, a jewelry business, a real estate development company, and I'm working on a restaurant. I'd be happy to sell the safe company though (everything but the name). Let me know if you're interested.

Now please, let other people give their advice and input. Thank you!!!

Would you care to share some of your insight with us regarding the safe industry? I'm all ears.
 
Right now I'm leaning heavily towards to Sturdy Safe, but I'd like to hear some comments about them from owners. Anyone have experience with Sturdy? Even better, someone with fire or burglary attempt experiences? Interested in opinions on the Browning too.

1. I was looking forward to reviews of from Sturdy Safe owners.
2. I was looking forward to reviews of from Browning owners.
3. Any reviews from owners who had the misfortune of theft or fire damage to a safe would have been just bonus.

That is my point, your "informing people", pretty much just sounds like complaining... "But its not UL, the guage they use, but why, whine-whine-whine". As for all your other jobs / careers, I could really care less. Might as well lock the thread, this isn't going to be useful anymore.
 
It was a pretty good thread...

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I have found the information posted by a1abdj and CB900F very valuable. Where else are you going to find someone who is so knowledgeable and up front about safes/RSCs? Just because you don’t like what you hear doesn’t mean it is complaining. We are lucky to have them posting here.
 
1. I was looking forward to reviews of from Sturdy Safe owners.
2. I was looking forward to reviews of from Browning owners.
3. Any reviews from owners who had the misfortune of theft or fire damage to a safe would have been just bonus.

That is my point, your "informing people", pretty much just sounds like complaining... "But its not UL, the guage they use, but why, whine-whine-whine". As for all your other jobs / careers, I could really care less. Might as well lock the thread, this isn't going to be useful anymore.

If anyone is going to get this thread locked, it is you. Why don't you get lost?
 
I have a straight question for the experts. I currently have a Champion Challenger 50 I would like something the same size or larger with better security and fire ratings. The 10 gauge body on the Champion could likely be opened with a rotary tool and hammer. I will be primarily storing firearms and some papers. What is available and how much will it cost?
 
If this thread is going to wobble on subject matter, I would personally like to see the thread move towards discussing any successful RSC attacks, and how one might have mitigated that exposure, as opposed to pure speculation on how an attack might be carried out.

My inclination is to think that such attacks are exceedingly rare, and limited to rural locations, or noisy locations, where time and generated noise is less of an issue.

As I sit here, with my own bolted down RSC monolith to my right, I simply have a hard time envisioning the type of attacks theorized here on the net.

My RSC is up against two walls. Bolted down to a concrete slab with 4 each, 6" long, 5/8" of an inch in diameter steel fasteners. The remaining open side is at the edge of a window that faces my next door neighbor and heavy furniture sits in the way. The combination dial knob is locked with a key.

Contained within that RSC is what I would consider a typical gun owner's collection of a dozen or so handguns and long guns that are readily available anywhere. Even a Ruger 10/22 and a Mark III, if you can stand the excitement.

I have to believe I would stand a better chance of winning the PowerBall lottery than I would of having this RSC compromised by a Sawzall wielding Ruger fan, or a BG using a plasma cutter to melt his way into my personal Nirvana.

And while an Israeli Armored Bulldozer could indeed open this RSC, and a Chinook helo could easily lift it clean through the roof, that's not likely to happen, either.
 
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YIKES - this thread is heated!

Facinating debate on this subject (also on the other thread covering this topic (which is what brought me here)). Mjrodney, great close. Agree completely with the buldozer and helo comments.
 
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BTW - here's a tip. Since the issue of fire protection is in doubt, just focus on getting something that keeps the bad guys out for as long as possible. That along with your home alarm system should be all you need. Instead of going nuts about fire rating, make sure you have sufficient insurance to cover your losses if you have a fire. Use a digital camera to shoot pictures of all valuables, make a list with descriptions, purchase prices, and assumed values. Keep the disk with pictures and the list in your bank safe deposit box where they won't be damaged if you have a fire. Shazaam!!
 
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