Carpet made for office chairs is a luxury. Primers sure bounce away though. It's the live ones I don't want to go through the Kerby. Poof then you leave the Kerby out back incase of fire.I like the foam floor. I have a few of those foam tiles, but what I used for the floor around the reloading area are those thick rubber horse stall mats from the feed store. If I drop a die or my calipers, it's better than the hard concrete. I even put one on the top of the desk. So that's my suggestion.
My reloading desk has a top. I'm not sure if it's melamine or formica. It's fake wood grain on top of sheet steel. I put the horse stall mat on top. It works great. Nothing slides and even cases don't roll far.
I don't have my press mounted on it. My presses are on floor stands, not a bench. I never liked the idea of trying to build a benchtop to withstand the torque of a press. I mount them on a heavy steel column bolted to the floor and a steel tripod stand.
I don't use the rubber top for cleaning. I clean my handguns in a polymer cart:
The brass tumblers are in the bottom.
The reason I mention this is because I doubt the rubber mats are as chemical resistant as formica or melamine. I use the solvents in that cart.
Suggestions, please...loading bench refinish
- Thread starter IWAC
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CQB45ACP
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OMG! That looks like my boss's desk back in 1972ish. Mine was gray. Bosses all had the beige with the fake wood grain on the top. For once I'm not joking!I like the foam floor. I have a few of those foam tiles, but what I used for the floor around the reloading area are those thick rubber horse stall mats from the feed store. If I drop a die or my calipers, it's better than the hard concrete. I even put one on the top of the desk. So that's my suggestion.
My reloading desk has a top. I'm not sure if it's melamine or formica. It's fake wood grain on top of sheet steel.
This isn't my desk, but it's just like it. It's a Steelcase Tanker desk. I put the horse stall mat on top. It works great. Nothing slides and even cases don't roll far.
I don't have my press mounted on it. My presses are on floor stands, not a bench. I never liked the idea of trying to build a benchtop to withstand the torque of a press. I mount them on a heavy steel column bolted to the floor and a steel tripod stand.
I don't use the rubber top for cleaning. I clean my handguns in a polymer cart:
The brass tumblers are in the bottom.
The reason I mention this is because I doubt the rubber mats are as chemical resistant as formica or melamine. I use the solvents in that cart.
Chuck R.
Member
Another vote for Formica, I've got 22' worth on mine:
I'm thinking of redoing my cleaning/work bench in it also. It's originally plywood with polyurethane, but it's showing wear and tear from moving.
I'm thinking of redoing my cleaning/work bench in it also. It's originally plywood with polyurethane, but it's showing wear and tear from moving.
Nature Boy
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Agree
Litetrigger
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Another loading bench with Formica top
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If you have a wooden bench top and you spill cleaners or solvents on it you'll know why formica is such a great finish! I could dump an oil bottle over and not notice it right away, but still wipe up the mess easily later with no residue or smell left afterwards.
GW Staar
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Bet you had that in stock too!
One nice feature of that is my rare earth magnets, that I steal out of old computer hard drives, are very useful when you have a little steel around. The only steel I have handy for that purpose, is the horizontal rail my nephew welded me for bullet/case feeders and its vertical support. 
The beginning of the bench clutter......thank goodness for the equipment swap plates.
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westernrover
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Mine came from a company that was founded in 1961, so that sounds about right. I worked there, but much more recently. I didn't get the desk from the office though. I found it on the roadside. Looks like I'm the boss now.
Bcwitt
Member
It's hard to beat a plain old plywood top.
foxmeadow
Member
Mine is 2" solid core door blanks on a custom built metal frame, covered with formica..
kmw1954
Member
2pcs of 3/4" ply then 1/4"pc ply topped of with 1/8" smooth hardboard. Then the 1/4" and 1/8" were cut out to inset the piece of 5/16" steel plate. The plate has been drilled and tapped for the 3 different presses I use.
Atavar
Member
If you use stainless be sure to ground it through a 1 megohm resistor for controlled static discharge. That will not only make your bench safer but will reduce static cling in your powder hoppers.
I bought some old benches from a machine shop. Cheap and they provide a solid work surface.
It is a multi use area so areas are set for reloading, woodworking, etc. I have two woodworking vices to install on the bench next to the rolling tool chest.
Kevin
It is a multi use area so areas are set for reloading, woodworking, etc. I have two woodworking vices to install on the bench next to the rolling tool chest.
Kevin
lightman
Member
Formica is nice! Some of the newer poly type finishes that spray on or brush on are pretty durable. My bench top is butcher block and came with a pretty durable finish so I'm leaving is as is until it starts to look bad.
dobedo
Member
When I built my bench, I used a poured clear epoxy that I got from ACE hardware. Wears like Iron resists chemicals and I use clamps to hold the press and other stuff.I recently installed a new top to my bench. It was one of the "prefinished" shelves from Home Depot that just fit the old bench top. I've noticed there is already some marring on the top. I'd like to refinish it with something tougher than the original color.
My givens...basement location, no ventilation, within 6 feet of furnace/air conditioner. I'd like to find something that is durable, dries fast, no toxic/flammable vapors and little to no smell, as my wife's quilting room is next door, and she has a nose like a bloodhound!
Litetrigger
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Though I recommend Formica for loading bench surfaces (See post #31)I have found that pre-formed counter tops are even better. Basically, the ones I have installed are a Formica-like surface formed over a thick, rigid under-panel. Among the improvements are a backbord and front edge in a neat one-piece cross-section. Probably best of all, is the pre-formed panel I ordered is 1-1/2" thick, strong as two layers 3/4" plywood made even stronger by Formica the surface with no further work than simply install over cabinets or whatever support you want. Mine have 24"working surfaces and they are rigid up to the edge for mounting loading presses, vises and other tools. They can be made to order in desired lengths and ready-made lengths and colors can be found at home supplys. Check it out.
Is this different than the polymer surfaces...Corian?
LiveLife
Member
I believe @Litetrigger is talking about pre-formed "laminate" top ready to install like this 6 ft top sold by Home Depot - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton...-Edge-and-Backsplash-12349KT06N5010/310010709
Issue I would have concern with "laminate" top is they are made from MDF like material and will crumble when applied with flex stress of mounting reloading presses. I think Formica over plywood is much better at handling flex stresses of bench top.
Corian is synthetic solid surface material that is poor choice for bench top that experiences flex stress as Corian is prone to cracking (You wouldn't use marble or granite for bench top to mount reloading presses). And Corian is not water proof as I walked through plenty of houses with cracked/stained Corian counter tops.
Plywood covered in Formica/polyurethane will provide superior performance in absorbing bench top shock and flex stresses while being water proof and more resistant to solvents/oils.
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1KPerDay
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That’s a good idea. My reloading bench is made of a good solid core thick wood door. The finish is paint to my knowledge but I don’t care if it gets stained or scratched. It’s been fine for 15 years
GW Staar
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You are exactly right....there is no torque strength in particle board or wafer board or MDF....they have to be supported. One way to do that is with my favorite loading bench design about which I posted a How-To and Plans, years ago here in THR. It works because it uses a torsion beam under the top. Then the top is no longer the support for weight or torque, the beam is. So the top can be made of one thickness/layre of anything.....even Corian if you want...or even granite if you want to pay for it....not to mention "drill" through it.
Look for the plans in resources, or the link below if you're curious....
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?resources/inexpensive-no-flex-bench-how-to.6/
I did see those when looking around. I moved on as soon as I saw that the base material was MDF
I didn't know that Corian cracked or stained. I've only had it installed in a kitchen remodel and the only warning was not to put a hot pan on it.
There is a local shooter who has a granite bench top. He didn't pay for it as he owns a stone fabrication company and I believe it was a raiment from a counter install. I wonder if having presses mounted on the Inline Fabrication mounts helps prevent cracking
I have those plans bookmarked...should I ever get ambitious enough to actually build a bench.
My bench is a simple steel shelving frame (Costco) that I assembled into two benches and mounted a .75" plywood sheet atop. I have it attached to the garage wall via a header. My presses are mounted on Inline Fab mounts to spread the pressure out and raise them to eye level. I have additional sheets on the other two levels and bullets stored on them for stability. Seems to be working okay as I'm not getting any movement when reloading
LiveLife
Member
If I owned a marble business and had a free piece of marble that would cover the bench top, I would reinforce the heck out of the bench top for "no flex" and install marble on top ... Because it was free and I sold marble.
And if I owned a leather business and had a free piece of leather that would cover the bench top ...
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