Suppressor building materials question...

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Chopdoktor

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Hey, shooters. I am planning on building my own suppressor on a form 1. I have access to a machine shop, and a gentleman who is willing to help me (I am aware of all the laws and regulations regarding this process). My plan is to build a longer style 9mm can, made up strong enough to withstand .223 centerfire pressures. A can that uses this concept is the 'Liberty Mystic', but is only rated to withstand limited, slow fire from a .223, yet is full-auto 9mm rated. If I wanted to copy this design concept, but build it up to handle rapid, semi-auto .223 use, what materials might I use, or what design considerations should I keep in mind?

p.s.-I wanna keep it under 8.5" inches, and narrow and light enough to reasonably use on a 9mm pistol that requires no recoil booster (i.e.-beretta 92)
 
.223 rated for rapid semi-auto use that's light enough to cycle a 92? That'll be tough.
 
Since the 92 is a fixed barrel style vs. the browning tilt-action of a Glock or such actions, cycling won't be too big of an issue, at least regarding the weight factor. I know that Glocks have to run a booster to be able to kick back the slide and tilt down the barrel for proper cycling. The 92 does not, thus making it a better suppressor candidate. Anyway, I'm not sure about using aluminum. I'm not a metallurgist or anything, but I think I have gathered that maybe aluminum isn't up to heavy abuse by centerfire rifle cartridges.
 
Thanks, Rhino. I'll have to become a member of that forum. I had happened across it once or twice, but not the page that you listed. I appreciate all your help.
 
Full auto anything or rapid 223 fire rules out aluminum as far I am concerned. 304 SS at a minimum, inconel or titanium if you can afford it. Check out the SilencerTalk forum for better advice.

Ranb
 
Thanks, Ranb. That's kinda what I was thinking. Like I said, weight isn't a big issue, so aluminum isn't super-desirable to my design plan, anyhow. I'll keep surfing SilencerTalk; I've found plenty of good stuff so far.
 
titanium's tough and light. a little more expensive than stainless. turns a really cool set of colors when you get it nice and hot.
 
I may consider that. I have access to a lot of metals, as I have a friend who works in custom trailer and cab fabrication/welding. Titanium would be good, probably, as long as I don't have several hundred dollars in a just a small quantity of it.
 
Magnesium is light but Hell that burns threw concrete. Go to local machine shops and ask for chunks of titanium with a case of beer.
 
i don't think i'd want to chance it with magnesium. if that decided to light off during firing, ugh, that wouldn't end well.
 
Yeah, I wouldn't use magnesium. I've used it to light Thermite before... I don't doubt a 800+ degree temperature inside a suppressor would set it ablaze; like you said- NO GOOD!
 
What about using multiple metals? You know like Heat Treated 6061 ALum. for the can, and maybe Ti or HT'd 416 SS for the baffles?

Metalman, You might be onto something there...IIRC there are specific coatings that are geared toward heat dissipation and such. Couldn't hurt to look into it I bet.
 
With using different alloys you could get into corrosion issues and galling. My opinion is aluminum has no place in a suppressor, especially threaded parts. Titanium is more difficult to machine than others and stainless seems to be a good balance. We make our suppressors with 300 series or 17-4 PH stainless. If you're worried about erosion on the blast baffle from rapid fire rifle, I would use 17-4 PH over inconel. If you plan on welding, do not use 303 SS, use 304, 304, 304L, or 316L. Stainless steel is ideal for rapid fire weapons as it will handle heat better than titanium (notice there are very little to no FA rated Ti cans). Strength of titanium really drops off at high temperatures.
 
300 series is more corrosion resistant than 400 series. That is why receivers and frames are 300 series and barrels are 400 series. 400 series is more machinable than 300 series but 300 series is not able to be hardened like 400 series, which makes 400 series great for hardened applications like barrels. 300 series is better at welds than 400 series. 303 is similar in strength to 304, but 303 is more machinable and 304 is better for welding. 316 is 20% stronger and retains good welding properties. 316L improves machinability with a very minimal loss in welding capability.

303 use for threaded end cap designs
304 use for welded end cap designs
316 use for welded end caps +20% stronger than 303 or 304 designs
17-4 PH blast baffles where you don't want the expense or aggravation of Inconel 718

Most flash suppressors and muzzle brakes use 17-4 PH due to its properties being ideal at blast resistance. Unburnt gunpowder racing a full speed acts like a high velocity sand blast, causing erosion. 17-4 PH will laugh a lot of it off.

Look at what material the commercial manufacturers are using and ask yourself "why".
 
Last edited:
Great info, guys. My machinist has access to Titanium, but from what I gather here, stainless is probably the way I'll go. Big thanks to RhinoDefense for the detailed analysis of materials.
 
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