It's not that simple; I've tried it.If you're a reloader...just use .357 brass with .38 powder charges.
It is a thing, and more noticeable if you shoot a lot of shorter cases in a longer cased gun. . . . .
A bronze brush on a drill with your favorite bore cleaner/carbon getter etc.
hp38 is too slow. use bullseye powder for the real light loads in your magnum cases.It's not that simple; I've tried it.
A light load of a compact powder doesn't fill the case up enough for reliable and complete ignition. It will light off, but you'll find unburnt powder on your shooting table and may notice the inconsistent power levels. This can be helped somewhat by tilting the gun vertical prior to every shot, to get most of the powder next to the primer.
The 357 case needs a bit more powder to be reliable and consistent. One example: with 148 gr. cast wadcutters, the load in 38 Special cases is 2.5 - 2.8 gr. of HP38. With 357 cases, it's 3.0 - 3.5 gr. So your choice is to either shoot 38s and deal with the carbon ring or shoot 357s and use a bit more powder with more recoil & flash.
Here's the recent instance where I had this happen:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/question-on-light-loads-in-magnum-cases.911578/
The rounds will shoot, but they will not be as consistent as if they fill the case more.
I'm just going to use slightly heavier loads in the Magnum cases and with magnum primers. It's not bad recoil out of the relatively heavy 3" SP-101 or 4" S&W 19; nowhere NEAR full power magnum loads. Next compact revolver I get, I'm just going to buy a 38 Special, as I don't like nor need magnum loads in them.
Bullseye is not to be found in these parts.hp38 is too slow. use bullseye powder for the real light loads in your magnum cases.
luck,
murf
red dot? titegroup? something on the fast end of the powder burn rate chart:Bullseye is not to be found in these parts.
Been doing that for years. Have a S&W Model 19 and I would swear whoever had it shot only .38 Special in it. First time I fired .357 Magnum I played hell extracting the empties. A cotton patch on a .40 bore brush and Flitz with one of my hand drills. Been doing that for many decades. Works fine and last a long time.Use Mothers mag & aluminum or Flitz polish on a tight fitting patch and spin it on low to moderate speed with a drill.
Yup. I use it for that all the time on my SS guns. Just a dab on a patch is all you need too. Works great.I'm gonna buy some Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish. It's a LOT cheaper than Flitz.
Will it get the carbon rings off the front of the cylinder too?
Only since about 1954 it has been Hoppe's No. 9. At times I have substituted WD-40. If I need degreasing, soak the parts in lacquer thinner.
My set-up:
View attachment 1116884
Bob Wright