The 686

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G5, that's an interesting story, and an interesting topic for me.

Part of my motivation for buying a 686 relates to owning a minimal set of firearms that could be of value for multiple uses (SD to hunting) in a situation where limited weapons were available. That could, for example, just be an extended backpacking trip that involves hunting to supplement food carried.

In my case, the scenario involves carrying a .22 rifle (for me, that's my Marlin 39A for small game) and one handgun, which would certainly be my 686 (for SD & larger game, in a pinch).

I'll follow this subtopic with interest.

Nem
 
the only experience i have with noting how lethal a 357 is, is in whitetail hunting...

i regulary practice, offhand, 50 yards and can keep them on a 4 x 4 plate... that's about all i can do... i am sure the 686 can do better and maybe someone with optics better still... i just stick to the standard S&W adjustable irons and my aging eyes...

I have taken one doe with my 686. 35 yards, 158 grain XTP over 16.5 grains of 296 - right around 1400 - 1420 through the chrono... shot that big ole doe in the base of the neck, dead center vertically, just forward of the brisket... she hit the ground like a ton of bricks, never even kicked, just like someone turned off the light switch... upon skinning, seeing the devastation that XTP did i have no issues using it for hunting, i'd hate to be on the receiving end of an XTP or any other JHP for that matter... you had to see it to believe it... extreme trauma to a wide area... tissue damage in the wound channel was something else... bullet passed completely through so no recovery of such.
 
686 + 6" ... picked it up last year at my local shop's S&W sale sponsored by S&W no less.

Best purchase I made last year without a doubt. Love the darn thing. Not absolutely crazy about the grips, particularly the buldge that sort of hinders removal of that last spent cartridge closest to the grips ... but I am shopping for a set of grips that will really look good on my stainless frame. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

PS: I thought the 686 was/is a "L" frame, not a J frame. Nevermind, I see where several members already caught that.
 
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Welcome new members"\:

Airborne Falcon
fspitzdorf
DAdams -Buck 119?
Bellevance - Nice grips
Checkman
jad0110
jes
lev83
HighVelocity - nice grips too
buck460XVR - 6" barrel? Big Boy

and anyone else I might have missed. We're growing quickly into a great little community.
 
All right 686 experts, the local gun shop has a 6" 686 with a compensator for sale for 450$
That's all the info I have right now, deal, no deal? What is it?
 
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All right 686 expert, the local gun sho has a 6" 686 with a compensator for sale for 450$
That's allthe info i have right now, deal, no deal? What is it?

Need more info. If it's a FACTORY compensated gun (aka SW Performance Center Gun) then you better go buy it NOW or PM me the stores phone number. :uhoh:
 
Sold this gun. Wish I hadn't.


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Best purchase I made last year without a doubt. Love the darn thing. Not absolutely crazy about the grips, particularly the buldge that sort of hinders removal of that last spent cartridge closest to the grips

I had the same problem with the stock Hogues. I slapped on a set of Pachmayr Compacs for K & L Frame round butts. No more spent cartridge ejection issues and they work fine with speedloaders.

I'll also be ordering some wood stocks from Kim Ahrends soon. I've heard they also work well with speedloaders and case ejection.

Bellevance,

I really like those Ahrends. I was thinking of Cocobolos, but now, I dunno!

Here's a pic of my 686+ with the Pachmayrs:


686_12-6.gif


G5,

I know a guy who did a couple of tours in Iraq and later went to Seal school. He broke his leg halfway through the program (nasty compound fractures in 2 places), but stayed in touch with some of his buddies that made it through. I'm not exactly sure which specific Seal unit it is, but they were issued 4" 6 Shot S&W 686s to be used in specific littoral operations where, as you alluded, the 686 possess superb corrosion resistance relative to other sidearms. He also stated that they use the 686 when moving from underwater to land as all you have to do is tip the barrel forward to let the water run out and the 686 is ready to go. Naturally, the 686 gets stowed when their other gear comes out of dry containers.

I'm just relaying this guy's story, so don't shoot the messenger if it is B.S. :eek: !
 
Joined the 686 club

I officiallly joined the 686 club today. I am waiting my 10 days to pick up my 10yr old 686 with only 100 rounds through it!!!! Got it for $400 on a trade. This thing is beautiful!@!
 
jad0110

I've heard the same thing about the SEALS using the 686 when conducting operations in the water. Sorry I don't know the exact high speed nautical term for water ops.

I also took the Houges off of my 686. I tried really hard to like them, but they just didn't work for me. I put on a pair of Pachmayr Grippers and all is now well. I prefer having the backstrap covered.
 
If it's a FACTORY compensated gun (aka SW Performance Center Gun)

Not necessarily a PC gun if it's ported. The 686PP (Powerport) was (and still is) available as a regular production item.

Depending on condition and dash number, that's probably a pretty good deal. If you like the feel of a 6" fully lugged barrel, go for it.

Additional reading on the "revolvers and dirt" topic:
http://www.tacticalforums.com/cgi-bin/tacticalubb/ultimatebb.cgi
Specifically:
http://www.tacticalforums.com/cgi-bin/tacticalubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=000111#000002
http://www.tacticalforums.com/cgi-bin/tacticalubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=000030#000006
http://www.tacticalforums.com/cgi-bin/tacticalubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=000423#000001

I think these were posted somewhere on THR or TFL (and the old tacticalforums) a long time ago. The new TF aparently uses UBB, complete with poor search functionality.
 
Tiger-maple grips

Bellevance,

I really like those Ahrends. I was thinking of Cocobolos, but now, I dunno!

jad0110--

Hey, who doesn't admire a natural blonde? If you do decide to go for the tiger-maple, ask Kim to look for a strong figure in the wood. To my eye, that's what makes those stocks special--the stripe that runs across the grain. It's subtle, but in indirect light it adds a sort of palomino shimmer to the look. :)
 
Bellevance,

Thank you for the information, I'm going to have to let this one "simmer" for a while!

I see you have what appear to be round-to-square conversions on your 617 (can't quite tell on the 686).

If my observation is correct, how do the conversion stocks work for you? I ask because I was considering round-to-squares for my 686, but heard some people say they don't quite feel the same as a true square butt gun.
 
jad0110--

You're right; they're both round-to-square conversions, and they don't have the same feel as a traditional SB. I have a fairly large hand, and they fill my hand a little deeper than my M19, if that makes sense. On these, the edges of the back of the butt seem sharp to me, too, so shooting magnums causes the butt to bite the heel of my hand, but I don't shoot enough heavy rounds for that to be a bother. I might eventually sand them down a tad, though.
 
I just up and did it today!

I bought one--686+, all standard factory. Being in the People's Dictatorship of California I have to wait 10 days to pick it up. It's not like I don't have anything to shoot?:rolleyes:

But I want my 686----;)
 
Congratulations benedict1, and welcome to the club.
Being in the People's Dictatorship of California I have to wait 10 days to pick it up. It's not like I don't have anything to shoot?

But I want my 686----
I know exactly how you feel:banghead:
 
g5

Thanks for the welcome. The Buck is a 121. I found it back in the mid 70s while walking a deserted two track in south central Idaho. Must have fallen off someone's truck.

I have taken good care of it for him/her.

I'm not a Buck afficianado. Any significance to the numbers/model and in this case the 121?
 
On these, the edges of the back of the butt seem sharp to me, too, so shooting magnums causes the butt to bite the heel of my hand, but I don't shoot enough heavy rounds for that to be a bother.

Hmmm, may have to go with round rump stocks afterall. Good information, thanks again! I currently shoot a ratio of roughly 1 Magnum for 5.5 38s. But that will change now that I have a 38 Special Model 14, plus getting into handloading soon and all. I suspect the 686 will be fed more Magnums in the future, perhaps 1 Mag to 3 38s.


Actually, I saw these Walther Roper Stocks on a Registered Magnum that appear to be very comfortable for those that like to grip the gun as high on the frame as possible. The covered backstrap is interesting in a Roper, as I don't think it was very common. Or maybe it is just the angle of the picture??? :confused:

I know original Walter Ropers sell for $350 and up in good condition, but I'm wondering if anyone sells wood stocks with a similar backstrap shape with no finger grooves, just like the Ropers pictured below:


WaltherRoper.gif
 
I thought I'd get to take the new 686 to the club (range) today.

I thought I'd get off work at 3, and head on over to shoot it for the first time.

I was wrong. I was tied up until 5. By that time, it was too late to get there.

So, disappointed, I went to the deli and bought a slice of pepperoni and some baklava.

I came back to the studio, and tried out the 686 in a Bianchi Shadow II holster with a pair of Perry suspenders.

I like the suspenders. They help support any belt carried handgun (along with keys, knives, watches, etc).

But, as suspected, I didn't like the 686 in an OWB. It's just too heavy.

Now, I admit, it could be this particular OWB.

It's designed as a holster for either strong side carry OR cross draw.

I tried it as both tonight. First cross draw. It stood up in an angle that is too acute. Just felt "in the way".

If I'm going to do cross draw with this revolver, I want it to lay at an angle that is closer to horizontal.

Second, I tried it as a strong side carry. That didn't work either.
Similar problem: stands up too tall, barrel digs into my hip.

If I can find a cross draw that's more horizontal and a comfortable carry, I'll consider it.
I'm seeking recommendations.

Otherwise, I'm leaning towards a shoulder holster like this one.

I suspect for camp carry, it'll be some kind of chest holster, like this one.

What say you?

Nem
 
I didn't like the 686 in an OWB. It's just too heavy.

Now, I admit, it could be this particular OWB.

Could be, but the Bianchi #7 is a fairly solid piece of working leather. May not be super nice, but it'll hold the revolver in place and not sag. If it feels too heavy on the belt, you might check to see if the belt is of appropriate size. (Is it wide enough to fill the slots on the holster? How thick is it? How tight are you wearing it?) You also might try a rig which holds the gun a bit lower, as the #7 rides pretty high. That might help with the muzzle digging into you, as well as feeling a bit different on the belt (possibly helping with that heavy feeling).

I carried and competed in IDPA/SSR with an L-frame and a #7 on a Don Hume B109 trouser belt for several years and had no serious complaints about the setup, other than the fact that it really wasn't competitive. Served fine as a carry rig.

Oh, and I didn't have much luck with wearing it crossdraw, either. FWIW.
 
686 range report

Well, I took the new beast to the club today.

First sighted in a new scope on the relatively new Marlin 39A, and experienced a FTF problem.

Then, shot the little mule 642. Damn, regardless of what others say, that little thing [strike]may be[/strike] IS a work of art, and is what I wear around the studio (and it will be my CCW piece once I get the license), but IMO it is NOT fun to shoot. Its recoil is beyond comfortable for me, even with a set of full Hogue monogrips that replaced the stock grips.

I saved the maiden voyage with the 686 for last. And it was a pleasant ending.

First I loaded up 7 Magtech 158 gr. .38 FMC-flat. Shot them at 7 yds. Piece o' cake.

Yeah, I was all over the target, but it was the first shots, so I was fine with that.
Just taking it for a test spin, still not knowing exactly when the hammer was going to drop.

Then, I did 7 more, then 7 more.
By the end of the third set,
I was comfortable, most landing in or quite near the bullseye.

I did most of the third set in SA. Way easier.

(I really became aware of how long that DA trigger pull is. I'm still being very cautious with it.
By next trip, I think I'll be able to do the full pull more smoothly, and reach break more quickly.
This time, I was paying too much attention to aiming for bullseye, and taking too long to trigger break.)

Then, I loaded up some Rem .357 158 gr. SJHP.

I found no noticeable difference in recoil from the .38s. I was pleasantly surprised.

By that time, I was relaxing into the experience.
I guess I was expecting more of a pounding from the .357 loads.
Relative to the 642, it was very manageable, and fun.

My last set of the .357 rnds put 6 of 7 into about 3".
I thought to myself, I wouldn't want to be on the other side of the barrel of this tool.

I also acknowledged that this revolver has a lot of potential.
(I already knew that, but this experience took me to level 2.)

I considered doing another couple of sets at 25 yds, but was tired by then.
Early on in the day, I had been surrounded by .30-06 and .308 shooters, and was feeling concussed. :what:
(The muzzle blasts were palpable.) I was also feeling a bit bummed by the 39A FTF.

So, I headed home. Enough for one day.

Next week, I'll try my hand at longer distances.

One minor problem that I hope to overcome: ejection of spend cases isn't fast and clean.
They hang in the cylinder for me. (Same with my 642.) I wind up having to pull them out with my fingers.
Is that normal? Will they just drop out easily if I hit the ejector more forcefully?

Overall, for the first time out, I'm very happy with Mr. 686.

Bigga bada boom.

Nem
 
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