The 686
- Thread starter g5reality
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AStone
Member
It is a perfectly balanced gun, G5. It just feels so comfortable and effortless.
Getting used to that LONG DA trigger pull is going to take a while. But I will.
It's mostly very smooth. Any roughness will work out with lots of dry fire. (Working on that now.)
This is SUCH a fine revolver.
AStone
Member
Iggy, I had that one bookmarked. Now, it looks even better.
It's got the right angle for cross draw carry. Will examine more closely.
Tool,
My current belt is a 1.2" leather belt for Carhartts, not for gun carry.
I'm looking at gun belts, but have yet to purchase one.
My gun shop doesn't stock belts in my size (*).
I'd appreciate hearing opinions about those reinforced nylon belts v wide leather.
Which one will support a 40 oz handgun better?
___________
(* They stock belts for big people, not for smaller people. I've been frustrated for years dealing with racks filled with clothing dominated by lots of L, XL, and XXL, and one or two M & maybe a S as a token to thinner people, like we don't exist. I've finally come to accept that's largely (so to speak) due to the fact that we're predominantly "overweight". No offense, but it's true. There is an obesity epidemic in this country. The sizes of clothing - including belts - available in shops is a reflection of that. And we're not healthy because of it. We need to eat less, exercise more. Get out and walk some long trails with that 686!
OK, off soapbox. Sorry, just had to vent.)
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warriorsociologist
Member
I wear a double-thickness 1.25" Filson belt when in jeans - works well for my holsters...though, I admit to pocket-carrying my 642 (Nemesis) most of the time.
1.2" is a little thin. The belt I use is 1.5" wide and is constructed of pretty thick leather. Linky. In your case, I'd probably order a belt online. In the mean time, it might not be wise to spend money on a holster until the belt situation is rectified. Some people use the Wilderness Instructor belt (or clone thereof) with what seems to be positive results. No first hand experience on the matter.
Personally, I use the linked-to Don Hume B109 for carry and IDPA. Used it originally with my Bianchi #7 and currently use it with my Ready Tactical kydex rig. The belt's held up fine for many years.
Personally, I use the linked-to Don Hume B109 for carry and IDPA. Used it originally with my Bianchi #7 and currently use it with my Ready Tactical kydex rig. The belt's held up fine for many years.
OH25shooter
Member
My proudly Made In America 686-5PP. Manufactured September 2000, no lock, Wolff spring kit, trigger job, Hogue grips, trijilion front sight.
jad0110
Member
Front and Rear Sight recommends...
In addition to a new gold bead Partridge style front sight for my 686, I was thinking of getting a different white-outline rear sight that has a wider gap between the two posts. I find that when focusing on the front sight I shoot better at distances greater than 21' when I can see light on either side of the front sight blade in the rear sight post. I shot a 6" S&W 66 once with this setup and it was amazingly accurate in my hands. I really liked "seeing the light" around the front sight. I recently shot a Kimber 1911 with a similar sight picture and made one large hole at 21'.
Any recommendations on the best combo and where I can get it from would be appreciated. My current front sight ramp is pinned in place if that helps.
In addition to a new gold bead Partridge style front sight for my 686, I was thinking of getting a different white-outline rear sight that has a wider gap between the two posts. I find that when focusing on the front sight I shoot better at distances greater than 21' when I can see light on either side of the front sight blade in the rear sight post. I shot a 6" S&W 66 once with this setup and it was amazingly accurate in my hands. I really liked "seeing the light" around the front sight. I recently shot a Kimber 1911 with a similar sight picture and made one large hole at 21'.
Any recommendations on the best combo and where I can get it from would be appreciated. My current front sight ramp is pinned in place if that helps.
I am joining also. I bought a 4" 686 about three months ago. I have always been fond of S&W revolvers and I wanted to try shooting IDPA matches with one.
I started with my 2 1/2 66 then tried my 4" Model 10 and finally decided to go all the way and get the 686.
I use a Kydex holster from Talon Tactical, Speed loader holders from Ready Tactical and Safariland Comp IIs and IIIs.
I have probably put around 500 rounds of my 158 gr handloads in .38 SPL and not had a minutes problem. I would like to get the cylinders chamfered but it is working OK the way it is for now.
The stainless finish is not as good as on some of my earlier S&Ws and I might have it bead blasted sometime in the future. I want to add some wood grips also.
All in all it is a great gun.
I started with my 2 1/2 66 then tried my 4" Model 10 and finally decided to go all the way and get the 686.
I use a Kydex holster from Talon Tactical, Speed loader holders from Ready Tactical and Safariland Comp IIs and IIIs.
I have probably put around 500 rounds of my 158 gr handloads in .38 SPL and not had a minutes problem. I would like to get the cylinders chamfered but it is working OK the way it is for now.
The stainless finish is not as good as on some of my earlier S&Ws and I might have it bead blasted sometime in the future. I want to add some wood grips also.
All in all it is a great gun.
AStone
Member
Frank (and others),
I'm assuming "chamfered" was a typo and that "chambered" is what you want to do,
but I could be wrong, of course.
In either case, I'm unclear about what that word means with respect to a 686
(or any other gun for that matter). Please explain.
Is that related to why extracting spent cartridges is not easy?
Is that why I have to pull them out why my fingers?
Guzzizzit
Member
$529.99 a good price on a 686?
I've been looking to pick up a revolver for some time now. is $529.99 a decent price for a 686 Stainless steel (.357 mag) with a 4" barrel? It's brand new from the factory.
I've been looking to pick up a revolver for some time now. is $529.99 a decent price for a 686 Stainless steel (.357 mag) with a 4" barrel? It's brand new from the factory.
"chamfering" is when the edges of the cylinder chambers are beveled. It assists in the loading process. The bullets will hit the rounded edges and slide in. You don't have to be lined up exactly with the chamber openings. Saves time. Hard to have it done on the old P&R models.
The S&W factory will chamfer the chambers.
The S&W factory will chamfer the chambers.
AStone
Member
Guzz, I agree with G5: that's a very good price for a NIB 4".
I looked around a lot. Prices here were mostly $600+ (as high as $630 in my local store).
I found a new one on sale just north of here for $525.
(Normally it was $550 at that store; I just hit a lucky weekend.
)Checkman, thanks for the edumacation about "chamfering".
I guess I could have googled it. Interesting word, that is.
OK, so I understand it will aid with loading. Would it also aid extracting spent cases?
I mentioned here or somewhere that mine tend to stick, and I have to pull them out by hand.
Then again, maybe I'm not using the extractor forcefully enough.
Do others have that problem? Should the spent cases just drop out more easily?
Advice appreciated (says the former semi-auto shooter who is now a wheel gunner...)
Nem
Try working the extractor with more force. It could indicate that the rounds are too hot - the cases might be swelling. Sometimes this can happen even with factory loads if something was wrong with a lot's propellent. It isn't unheard of with reloads. Somebody got carried away with the load.Trying to Wilcat a new load or something.
The other possibility is you might try having your cylinder chambers polished.This is a pretty common job and most professional gunsmiths can do it - as can the factory. Of course you can also have a smith look it over.
The other possibility is you might try having your cylinder chambers polished.This is a pretty common job and most professional gunsmiths can do it - as can the factory. Of course you can also have a smith look it over.
AStone
Member
Good advice, C'man. Thanks.
Will do. Maybe I'm "babying" it.
Hmm. My 686 is brand new, and I've only had it to the range once, but I'm pretty sure the factory rnds I shot in it are not especially hot. Specifically, I shot two kinds of rnds, both 158 gr: Magtech.38 spl FMC-Flat, and Remington .357 mag SJHP.
Excellent. I've found a great gunsmith here that is going to be doing some work for me soon on a rifle. I'll talk with him about that.
Regarding ejection issues,
I find that sometimes if you shoot a bunch of .38 first, the shorter case causes buildup of "crud" in the cylinder so that when you fire .357 with the longer case, when it expands it can kind of hang up on that "crud".
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it
Jim
I find that sometimes if you shoot a bunch of .38 first, the shorter case causes buildup of "crud" in the cylinder so that when you fire .357 with the longer case, when it expands it can kind of hang up on that "crud".
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it
Jim
AStone
Member
I would expect that a build up of "crud" in the cylinders -
sufficient to stick spent cases - would occur after
several hundred rnds (w/o cleaning).
I checked my cylinders after firing ~ 20 .38 spl,
followed by ~10 .357. Mag.
IMO, there was not sufficient "crud" to stick spent cases.
And, the sticking was occurring with spent .38 cases as well,
not just .357s.
But I will keep an eye on it.
Thanks for the suggestion.
sufficient to stick spent cases - would occur after
several hundred rnds (w/o cleaning).
I checked my cylinders after firing ~ 20 .38 spl,
followed by ~10 .357. Mag.
IMO, there was not sufficient "crud" to stick spent cases.
And, the sticking was occurring with spent .38 cases as well,
not just .357s.
But I will keep an eye on it.
Thanks for the suggestion.
It is advised that if you shoot alot of 38 rounds through a magnum you should give the cylinder a good cleaning before firing 357 rounds. The cylinder is actually smaller with the buildup and can cause pressure around the longer magnum case. That can be a bad thing.
AStone
Member
C'man, what's "a lot"?
A) 10 - 20
B) 20 - 50
C) 50 - 100
D) 100 - 200
E) more than 200
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