The Sam Cade Thread of Knifey Goodness

[Sam Cade]

The wharncliffe for the win! Fantastic design and I bet you sell a bunch!

The Amish seem to dig it.

Seriously though, folks seem to like that particular configuration (more than what I would expect) and buy them locally about fast as I can make them. Five in the last couple weeks.



I should probably start marking my knives.

 

[hso]

Yep

Use the steel 'stash logo

 

[Sam Cade]

That would be an easy resist to cut for etching.

 

[hso]

Yep

'stash with a Cheshire Cat grin

 

[Sam Cade]

First try with the JShirley EDC tanto thang.

It feels great in 1/8" stock, the thinnest I had.

 

[Sam Cade]

Daily Kwaiken?

 

[SuperNaut]

First try with the JShirley EDC tanto thang.

It feels great in 1/8" stock, the thinnest I had.

Add black canvas scales and I'll take it!

 

[Sam Cade]

Add black canvas scales and I'll take it!

We don't do sales in open forum, so I'll PM you with info on a similar piece.

 

[Sam Cade]

Since folks are asking, this is what the little tanto guy looks like ground out and drilled:

...and a tiny bit of coarse jimping in the thumb recess.

 

[Jeremiah10:23]

Rookie question here, I understand 2 of the holes are for pins but what are the others for? Weight reduction, adhesive improvement, both?

 

[JShirley]

Bottom hole is for a lanyard. In this case, we'll say the top hole is also another lanyard option. It‘s common to drill multiple holes for weight reduction.

John

 

[Jeremiah10:23]

After having read through this thread it gives me a strong desire try my hand at it. I see a gathering of equipment and many sparks as a possibility in my future.

I have been looking for a new sheath knife and have not found what want so why not try to make one.

 

[JShirley]

Let me know if you'd like a knife shape.

 

[Sam Cade]

Weight reduction, adhesive improvement, both?

Both. The ones without a chamfer are the pin holes. The hole in the guard is to get that last little bit of weight reduction and to give a bit of retention when I mold the sheath.

Also, style.

 

[Sam Cade]

Going in for heat treat right now:

 

[JShirley]

Ooh. Yes.

What steel?

 

[Sam Cade]

Ooh. Yes.

What steel?

.13" 15n20.

I've also got some .095" and I think a short piece of .072" left.

 

[Sam Cade]

..you know you are making a big knife with the fall-off is 10.5" long and 1.5" wide.

 

[Shanghai McCoy]

Sam,
At the risk of sounding like Lt. Columbo , where'd you get those shoes..?

 

[Sam Cade]

They are Palladium "Pampa" boots.

http://www.amazon.com/Palladium-Mens-Pampa-Hi-Boot/dp/B003ZYDLKY


Commercial version of the canvas desert boot that the French used to use and the IDF still does.

Fit is similar to Converse Chucks, but with a lugged shankless sole.

 

[Shanghai McCoy]

Thanks Sam.

 

[hso]

What's your edge thickness when you heat treat?

 

[Sam Cade]

I usually don't mic it and just use the Mk.1 calibrated eyeball.

Usually about half the thickness of a dime.

Smidge thicker at the tip to guard against overheating.

I can get away with a bit thinner but it stresses me out.

 

[hso]

I was taught to go with the thickness of a quarter.
A dime is too thin and invites edge warping and a nickel is too thick leaving too much material to hog off on the grinder. Learned my lesson when I forged a 7" blade to just below a dime thickness and the thing developed a distinct wave at the edge that had to be cold forged out with a "flatter".

 

[kieranklein]

I go to .030-.040 before heat treat, so far no problems.