Thieves suck...

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Just because someone ditched a busted open safe doesn't mean any crime occurred beyond maybe littering.
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From the nearest access point with a vehicle of any kind it would have been drug 250-300yrds through thick TX woods to get to where it's laying. I don't think a legal owner would go through that much trouble. Esp. when he could drop it at a recycling center and receive a little bit of cash. LEO was called before I ever posted.
 
Going OT (sorry): My guns aren't worth buying a $5K safe to protect them. I just hide mine very creatively. It'll cost far less to replace my firearms if stolen or burnt than buying a pricey safe. And a safe... is very visually conspicuous so... IMHO... worse than just hiding.
STORING guns in a safe is simply the responsible thing to do.
 
What I was told by the then-chief of the NMSU police, thieves don't hang around to break into safes. They put everything they can grab in a bag and get out. His view was that a safe was necessary, but as he'd never seen one that the thieves had made any effort to open, there was no point in spending money on a good one.

The sage in the photo may be a rare exception, or one of the other hypotheses in this thread may be a better guess.
 
I've been in LE 23 years and counting, and I have taken plenty of burglary reports, read hundreds more, talked to tons of thieves (including a few I made on prints with no other leads) and even been a victim of home burglary once or twice myself. I certainly don't know it all, but I do know an awful lot about this type of stuff from plain old experience.

I have learned a few things over the years....one is no two thieves are the same so there is never a one size fits all solution, but most are strict opportunists and follow a similar pattern (especially the younger ones who haven't had time to sit and listen to the pros in prison).

Most daylight crooks will cruise about the neighborhoods looking for easy marks, either in a car or on foot (teen aged hoods walking home from school are good at this). Papers in the driveway, cars all gone to work or vacation, no dog, no alarm sign, etc. They will try the doorbell or knock looking for a response, and they will gauge the interest of the neighbors who see them. (More thefts are prevented by people who stop and take a look at folks who don't look right than anything else.)

Daytime types will usually kick the door or break the slider or window to get in, check the usual spots* for cash, handguns, jewelry in that order, then vamoose in under 5 mins. These things are easy to conceal on the getaway, and easy to sell quickly....and cash never has anyone who questions it. Those who work in pairs with a vehicle, or who live very close to the victim, will add electronics like TV or stereos to this shopping list so they can toss them in the car or run to their place quickly. I have even seen where some crooks rent U hauls and empty entire houses pretending they are hired movers. Rare, but it happens!

Nightimers will also cruise a neighborhood, but they prefer to be anonymous, so they will not often knock on doors. They will usually gain entry through unlocked doors or windows, or pry a window or slider to get in quietly. They will look to Grab the purse or wallet on the kitchen counter, maybe creep into the bedroom and take what is in the open, then vamoose.

Thieves are not dumb, they want to look as inconspicuous as possible and most don't want to meddle with a safe because they are running against the clock. When I got burged I was out of town. I lost TV, VCR, cameras, watches, and a new pair of Sorel boots. The gun locker was untouched even though I have a garage full of tools. No one in my crappy old neighborhood said they saw a damn thing.....but I think the tweaker dudes from 4 doors down the block did it.

Now, if you ADVERTISE your guns with a H&K sticker in the window of the truck or a Protected by Smith and Wesson tin sign on the porch, you may attract those crooks who specifically look to take a safe or locker and the contents inside. (Either that or a home invasion robbery crew, which are far more likely to cause a gun battle) You better believe that any determined gun thief will bring what it takes to open or remove a safe or locker and get the guns inside, so your best bets are to not advertise your valuables and to make your place as thief-unfriendly as possible. And yes, while nothing is ever going to be 100 percent thief proof, a decent safe will make the difference between losing your stuff and keeping it the vast majority of the time.

Stay safe!
* master bedroom night stands, dressers, closets, under beds, etc. There are almost always tossed in every burglary i can recall because this is where most folks keep jewelry, cash and unsecured guns. Kids rooms, other closets, bedrooms, couches, garages are down the list for many crooks.
 
When I moved into the apartment I live in now the first thing off the truck was the gun safe and it went straight into the “master” bedroom. I made a point of moving it in the very early morning before anyone was even awake, I also moved two file cabinets in at the same time hoping to camouflage what it was that I was moving. Even with all that I go on the assumption that someone saw it and knew exactly what it was.

My second line of defense is that I don’t talk guns with the neighbors or the apartment staff. I don’t wear my NRA hat, no “Protected by Smith and Wesson” signs, I even cover my security uniform coming and going to work.

The idea is not to make myself an attractive target, if no one knows I even have guns no one is going to break in looking for them.

The bottom line is that if I lost my guns I probably couldn’t afford to replace them so I take precautions with the ones I have
 
A guy in southern Oregon had his safe stolen. Something like a near 4000lb safe and over a hundred rifles inside. They took the safe and it was later found in a similar state as the one that started this thread.

Those that simply think a heavier safe will stop thieves are dreaming.
 
Like to see them try that crap with my 3600 lb Graffunder safe.

I can see it now.

"Heave!" .... "Heave!".... "put your backs in to it boys!" While 20 guys on ropes try to drag it through the yard.

Once that safe went in to my basement, it's never.. ever, coming back out again. It'll be here long after the house itself is nothing but ruins for some future architect to dig up.
 
I can pull a 5000 lb 10 ft tall stamp press out of a building within about 20 minutes and being down the road in half an hour with basic moving gear. And I care about it not getting damaged.

If I had to get a safe out of a house without care of damage, 10 minutes tops for anything less then 4000 lbs.. If you bolt it down and to the wall it will take 20-30 minutes. If I knew its location ahead of time a gas saw will have it open in 5 minutes.

If there is an alarm going off already your safe will be fine. It takes too long to load, and to long to open.

The only hard safes are filled with concrete, they weigh better than 10,000
 
Bolting a heavy safe to the floor is still not a guarantee. A determined thief will merely wrap a chain around it, and give it a yank with a pickup truck. I have heard of it happening. Once the thief has the safe where he can work on it, any of them can be opened given time.

An alarm is great, but some can be simply defeated by cutting phone wires. A cell phone based alarm is better, but very expensive, ( the phone line systems aren't real cheap either).

Some protection is better than nothing, but even the best is not absolute. It always comes down to compromise, security over cost and convenience.
 
My opinion but if the thief goes after your 3500-4000 pound safe then he came there with that in mind and really nothing short of you standing there with a shotgun would stop him.

I don't think anyone here is saying a safe will stop a determined thief but it very likely will stop the smash and grab guys that most thieves are
 
It doesn't take much to jigsaw or sawzall through a sheet metal box. That RSC in the photo would only take a couple minutes with a reciprocating saw with a metal blade, or 15 seconds with a circular saw running a metal cutting blade. Gun safes aren't rated for power tool attack (with exceptional one oe two models that will run you north of $5k). That's why gun safe marketing doesn't show safes withstanding attacks with typical garage shop tools.

People shouldn't be surprised or fooled by marketing and chrome handles.
 
Bolting a heavy safe to the floor is still not a guarantee. A determined thief will merely wrap a chain around it, and give it a yank with a pickup truck.
There are no guarantees. But bolting it to the floor tremendously improves security.
 
It looks kinda like the cheap one walmart has for $500.

Or a dicks sporting goods
 
Did you look inside it? I find it odd that they had all the time they desired and didn't completely remove the top. It doesn't even look as though it's been peeled open far enough to get much of anything out. There is no crease in that top lid where it was peeled any further.

Or maybe they got it open and it was empty.
 
The fish looking thing might be a tarp- you're seeing the grommet holes maybe? Maybe they used a tarp to drag it out there.

Anyway, leave it where it is. Right now there are some burglars who believe they've found the perfect spot to make noise and go unnoticed. Now that you're home you may hear them the next time.
 
I still think creative hiding is a better deterrent to theft. A very convincing false wall at the back of a closet does very nicely for me.
 
We don't even know there were thieves involved. Someone may have bought the safe at auction and cut it open to see if anything was inside.
 
I don't understand why anyone would lug a 500 pound safe out to the middle of nowhere. It would be easier to just dump it on the side of the road.
 
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