Thinking of Changing the Carry

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ancientnoob

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Hey Folk,

I have been carrying a Smith and Wesson pre-lock M649 for quite a while and I recently picked up a "project" gun. Something I was thinking of having one of those new fangled Robar Np3+ finishes put on. I had purchased an fairly scarce early Colt Lawman MKIII 2" in .357 magnum for not a lot of money. I actually thought it was a super duper deal based on comparable prices. Alas it had someones badge number scrawled in the frame on both sides under the grip and the preceding "A" on the underside of the grip frame. It had minor rust in about 5 different spots and obvious holster wear, so as far as a collector piece it was dead. So I was like ok-plan B. Use it as a shooter, I didnt clean it or anything and took it to the range to "try it out" and thats when I was like Oh. This is one of the best handguns I ever shot in my life. (I have older D frames too) I remember looking around like did anyone feel that trigger. I heard the trigger was heavy and not as smooth as the older guns. I found that to be far from the truth. The trigger in double action was heavy-but the gun is heavy so OK. I dropped some of the hottest .357 Mag loads in and it soaked up recoil like a new sponge. I dropped in .38 spl in and I obtained some incredible groups ( for me) at 10 yards. Then I dropped in my SD ARX Polycase and no lie, if I did not see the holes in the paper I would have thought I had a hangfire or squib - no recoil like firing .22 short out of a Ruger Target pistol. I was super duper impressed. I happily took the pistol home and spent a long time detailing it with WD-40, Mothers Mag Polish and Ren Wax. I kinda want to carry this thing. Its big in a comforting way. The factory stocks are like perfect for my hand and the imperfections in the firearm makes me ok with the daily ding. Thoughts?
coltlawman.jpg
 
What’s your fellas thoughts on getting it done up in those Robar finishes, possibly adding a night site or some thing else? There is a non obtrusive ding to the right side of the site ramp.
 
What’s your fellas thoughts on getting it done up in those Robar finishes, possibly adding a night site or some thing else? There is a non obtrusive ding to the right side of the site ramp.

Sir,you've got an ideal working revolver, in working revolver shape, so why refinish it? On the other hand it is your gun, so if a new finish will make ya happy go for it.
 
Probably not much collector's value so finish change won't mean much except to you.. That's a belly gun. When you see the gun between you and the bad guy, pull the trigger. ;)
 
Probably not much collector's value so finish change won't mean much except to you.. That's a belly gun. When you see the gun between you and the bad guy, pull the trigger. ;)

Fair enough, I kinda liked the idea of a one of a kind custom but it probably would be a waste in the long run.
 
Hey Folk,

I have been carrying a Smith and Wesson pre-lock M649 for quite a while and I recently picked up a "project" gun. Something I was thinking of having one of those new fangled Robar Np3+ finishes put on. I had purchased an fairly scarce early Colt Lawman MKIII 2" in .357 magnum for not a lot of money. I actually thought it was a super duper deal based on comparable prices. Alas it had someones badge number scrawled in the frame on both sides under the grip and the preceding "A" on the underside of the grip frame. It had minor rust in about 5 different spots and obvious holster wear, so as far as a collector piece it was dead. So I was like ok-plan B. Use it as a shooter, I didnt clean it or anything and took it to the range to "try it out" and thats when I was like Oh. This is one of the best handguns I ever shot in my life. (I have older D frames too) I remember looking around like did anyone feel that trigger. I heard the trigger was heavy and not as smooth as the older guns. I found that to be far from the truth. The trigger in double action was heavy-but the gun is heavy so OK. I dropped some of the hottest .357 Mag loads in and it soaked up recoil like a new sponge. I dropped in .38 spl in and I obtained some incredible groups ( for me) at 10 yards. Then I dropped in my SD ARX Polycase and no lie, if I did not see the holes in the paper I would have thought I had a hangfire or squib - no recoil like firing .22 short out of a Ruger Target pistol. I was super duper impressed. I happily took the pistol home and spent a long time detailing it with WD-40, Mothers Mag Polish and Ren Wax. I kinda want to carry this thing. Its big in a comforting way. The factory stocks are like perfect for my hand and the imperfections in the firearm makes me ok with the daily ding. Thoughts?
View attachment 789266
Don't want to be a party pooper, but you DID ask for thoughts on these, soooooooo....

After seeing two MK3 Colts with cracked trigger pivots, I would not personally trust my life to one. The trigger and hammer were made from an early sintering process resulting in very smooth, but brittle finished parts. The trigger hinge pivot, especially, is simply too thin and the shock from firing heavy loads is asking for breakage here. The hammer spurs have been known to snap off if the gun hits the floor directly on it as well. Replacement parts are virtually unobtainium.

I know its not what you wanted to hear, as it seems you really like this gun. Do some internet research on this problem, and if you are still OK with using it as a carry piece, more power to ya.

Once again, sorry.:(
 
I would leave it as is. If anything do it in 1960s style and add a t-grip if needed or a gold bead sight. The guns up to 1970ish seem to point better and be suited to carry.

I picked up a couple old duty dump pouches and a vintage IWB for my model 10. While heavy and low on capacity few handguns inspire the confidence, accuracy and sleekness of older guns. They were made in a time before the clunky plastic fantastics. Sure a S&W shield does more with a smaller profile but shoot what you shooter best.

HB
 
ancientnoob

Sounds like you've got a winner there in terms of how well it shoots and how comfortable it is to shoot. If it were my gun I would get it hard chrome plated.
 
Don't want to be a party pooper, but you DID ask for thoughts on these, soooooooo....

After seeing two MK3 Colts with cracked trigger pivots, I would not personally trust my life to one. The trigger and hammer were made from an early sintering process resulting in very smooth, but brittle finished parts. The trigger hinge pivot, especially, is simply too thin and the shock from firing heavy loads is asking for breakage here. The hammer spurs have been known to snap off if the gun hits the floor directly on it as well. Replacement parts are virtually unobtainium.

I know its not what you wanted to hear, as it seems you really like this gun. Do some internet research on this problem, and if you are still OK with using it as a carry piece, more power to ya.

Once again, sorry.:(
@NIGHTLORD40K no worries- I did ask for your thoughts and you provided vital information and I thank you. Is this a wide spread problem with these guns a whole, or did someone put 50K rounds through it, or polish a case harden surface? Any other info you can provide would be awesome. What was the condition of which these failed.
 
@bannockburn Hardchrome - interesting choice. I was reading about this NP3+ it seems to be the bee's knees of finishes, any experience on a revolver?
 
ancientnoob

No experience with Robar's NP3+ but I understand it's the cat's pajamas in terms of being a finish that's very hard and extremely corrosion resistant.
 
@NIGHTLORD40K no worries- I did ask for your thoughts and you provided vital information and I thank you. Is this a wide spread problem with these guns a whole, or did someone put 50K rounds through it, or polish a case harden surface? Any other info you can provide would be awesome. What was the condition of which these failed.
One was a Trooper, the other a Lawman, both MK3, both in good used condition with unknown round count. My buddy bought the Lawman with the trigger already cracked, but didn't know it at the time. Only a small chunk had broken free, so the gun still fired, but there was a definite roughness to the pull towards the end of its travel with an attendent clicking sound. We disassembled it and found the problem, but he couldn't find an replacement for under $100, so he sold it again. It did not appear that the gun had ever been apart before or had any action work done.

The other was at my LGS, where they had just bought the gun knowing it had a problem and had it apart on the bench. Fully half of the trigger pivot had broken off and it would pop off its pin if pulled fully, rendering the gun unusable unless you could maneuver of back in place. They were thinking of having one made from billet at a local machine shop.....I never heard what the outcome was. Once again, it did not appear anyone had attempted to do an action job on the gun.
 
A .357 2"? You might as well load .38 Spl +P loads in it and save your hand from the recoil of the .357. The velocity differences between both cartridges in a 2" barrel are not much different. With a longer barrel it will make a difference.

I have a first year of manufacture (1989) Ruger SP101 3" in .38 Spl that had the cylinder reamed for the Rem .357 125 grain hollowpoint round (back in the day) before Ruger lengthened the frame and cylinders for all .357 mag cartridges in the SP101. The SP is built like a tank but it is not fun to shoot in .357, even with a Hogue Mono-Grip to replace the miniscule factory grip. I have also changed the mainspring and trigger return spring from the originals to Wolff reduced power springs. The gun still functions perfectly after tests, and it is miles better than the original trigger pull.

It is my wife's HD gun but I really think the baseball bat she keeps at her bedside is her go to weapon.

Ruger_SP101_Grips2.jpg

Jim
 
I had a Robar NP3 finish put on my Ruger Mk3 22/45. I don’t regret doing it. Just be prepared for it to take a while. I think they had my gun for 3 months.
 
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