THNX 4 the 45 ACP help. Here r my findings!

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Gonzofam

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I never thought that a minute powder charge would make this kind of a difference. But wow! Since I purchased a Taurus 45acp Oss 24/7, the accuracy was never there. Went to a gun guy he tweaked the rear sight and accuracy was off, but this handgun is just for home defense. That is all this one was for. I kind of knew it was not going to be like a Kimber or many others I dont know of yet as far as accuracy. This was a base model. OK with that. Reloads from a gun show, Blaser 230gr round nose, winchester 230gr and 185gr and a few others. The Speer 185gr hollowpoints were perty good. So this is the rout I took to start. After using the COAL in the speer book, 5 different recipies from 6.6-7.2 grains of w231 powder. The 7grain were so accurate I could not believe it. Never have I shot this well with any handgun. Only 5 or 6 guns but that is besides the point. 5 shots all in the bull at 7 or 8 yds ! Thank you guys for the help so much.
One thing else I learned. If you dont have a trim to length for a batch of handgun shells, YOU WILL NOT HAVE A PERFECT CRIMP. Some rounds will crimp before exact bullet depth as set by the seating die and not set the ogive to the depth you are looking for. This is unless with a three die set, you do all bullet seating depth first. Then give a slight crimp and even that you still wont have a uniform crimp due to the shell length being slightly different.
I will start to have a general trim to length for used shells for my safety.
I have learned alot this weekend.
 
Rather than trimming your cases, maybe you could just send me the long ones?
Best accuracy is with the cases that are long enough to actually head space on the case mouth.
Shortening them all means that they will either be floating in the chamber or will be held by the extractor.
The other way, with the .45 Auto, is to have the bullet just touching the rifling.
All you need is to remove the case mouth flare.
 
Yep. I barely touch any of reloads with the crimp ring.

I put an extra aggressive flare on my last batch of 45, because I was trying some new, thinly plated bullets. Once I got to the point where the bullets were dropping into the case mouth, easily, I decided to put the calipers on the cases to see how big I was flaring. The flare sure felt huge. I was surprised to see my calipers showing 0.472". That's exactly what they measure after I'm done seating and "crimping."

If a case is too short it doesn't screw up the crimp. It won't get flared as much. It won't need to get crimped as much. In addition to what noylj said, most pistol brass is too short to begin with, and it gets shorter over time. So if you want benchrest ammo then start sorting, not trimming.
 
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Speer #13 goes to 7.4 Grs with a 185 Gr JHP, but yea, that's pretty stout.

Congrats on finding a good load.
 
I have not gone to the lower side as far as measured charges. I was told all you need is the minimum that will cycle and be accurate but for some reason this is not the case. 185 nosler JHP is what I was using. It is right from the book and speed wise shows to be between 850-925 fps. That is not too hot. Could change a little when it warms up. Are you guys suggesting go back to minimum and go up and see if there is another accurate load that is not so hot? If so why? There were a few reloaders there who also were checking my shells for pressure sign and said, "no signs at all so looks safe and hella accurate."
Shells with no crimp are the ones I have seen with bump on the side where it looks like the shell is skinny below the bullet bulging out the side. I might try that cause of the shorter shells I have. I think I might get a big bag of shells to start cause the ones I have are from reloads I purchased at a gun show and some seem perty short. I had to fix the oal on more than 30 out of 50 bullets because they were .002 to .008 too long and were jaming in the gun. This is one of the major reasons I have started reloading. I felt can do much better than these guys who throw amo together and think as long as it is in spec, SELL IT. And also save some money except for the 6 or 7 hundred I have spent so far. Anyone who becomes a member here will have no choice but to succed at there worst being better than that crap by sheer osmosis. You care for your fingers and your face, your weapon right? Do it right or go buy factory loaded amunition. Never look back. Once you have the mindset of reloading the best you can possibly do you will pick other stuff apart. I am not bashing these reloaders at gun shows because I am talking about the great feeling of doing your own and getting some great results. I know what basket I am putting my eggs in now.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys I love learnin sompthin every day. Keeps yah on yer toes.
 
Are you guys suggesting go back to minimum and go up and see if there is another accurate load that is not so hot? If so why?

From my POV accuracy and loads should be looked at from how accurate is accurate enough compared to perceived recoil? For example 4.3gr of 231 for caliber X is not as accurate as 4.5gr of caliber X...but it's accurate enough and the reduction in perceived recoil outweighs the tigther group.... I load "fully cycle mins"...my goal is to have a minimal kick while still knocking down steel. I'm not knocking the "Hot" reloads -- but "hot" reloads for general shooting aren't for me. So In short -- I reload at min because I want the lightest recoil I can have while still maintaining accuracy...


I don't really follow the rest of your post...but none the less keep on learning and having fun!
 
I see. Am I reloading for range fun or what thought never came to mind yet. I guess I am reloading for range fun. Not going below min of all 3 load books I have cause there is a lot of information as far as the same powder in different books. Maybe I should pick one book to start. I was told self defense should be shelf purchased amo. Is that correct?
 
Maybe I should pick one book to start. I was told self defense should be shelf purchased amo. Is that correct?

one book....
I consult the Lyman Pistol reloading manual... The #49 is great but currently I only load for handloads and the Lyman Pistol Manaul covers just handloads....
Because Win 231 is so versatile and recoil friendly that's all I load with. When using 231 my "source document" is the Winchester Reloading Data website. I compare it with the Lyman....and for kicks I may compare it to the Lee (who only compiles other's data)...but in the end I always go with the powder manufacturers load data. If there is huge discrepancy then I'll message one of my buddies on here.
If I used Speer or Hornady bullets then i'd get their manual(s) as well -- some say Speer has great info...so it might be a good book just to have? Before long the books will be online anyways...

self defense ammo
Hot topic -- always debated -- never proved/disproved and always ends up in a thread war. There are numerous threads in the Legal forum and a few here in Reloading. I reload for SHTF SD...not home SD. So if Zombies start walking around then ill pull out my SHTF SD cartridges....otherwise i'll use Winchester Ranget SXT....
Same with trigger jobs on pistols used for SD....hot topic -- always debated -- never proved/disproved.
 
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Maybe I should pick one book to start

Gonzo, before you disapeared from your other thread, it was suggested by more than a few that the "books" (lymans, speer, ABC's of reloading, etc) contained a LOT more info in them besides "recipes" which would be VERY VERY useful for you to know....
(for example WHY there is a minimum and maximum load suggestion with each recipe)
Great books, great reading - GOOD stuff.

Several people there (in your other .45 reload thread) - including myself, asked you questions that you didn't answer as you seemed to be in a hurry....

Slow down, lol and ENJOY what you're doing

Not trying to be insulting here or put you down, just trying to encourage your craft and hobby through knowledge and safety

:D
 
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