Timber Ridge Safes or RSC ...whatever you want to call it

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I put my safe IN a small closet and rebuilt the door and wall after it was in- in my old house. The door was locked and wired separate in the security system. I would point out that whatever ya do to the frame and door is almost moot. Unless ya reinforce the walls breaking through the drywall wall is easy. A buddy and I built his loading room in his basement and had two layers of osb and a layer of drywall- A exterior steel door and a reinforced frame... his son inlaw kicked it in rather quickly when the worthless @#$%#%# was told by a cable installer that the cable HAD TO run through that area... A total BS statement in itself but thats another story. The steel door buckled and failed. The wall and frame did not.

personally I love the story of the guy who went on vacation. He took his guns to a buddy's... filled his safe with his primers and powder.... in the garage.... someone tried to torch their way in... I think they found the crooks shoes and hamburger ;)

I do wish the ATM safe I acquired was bigger than the 19" by 30" by 36" or so that it is... 1/2 inch walls- I love that safe and its heavier that the RSC I have thats twice the size.
 
Piste;

The explanation you seek has been posted here on THR more than once. Please use the search function. In fact, I believe the very simplest, easiest to understand, difference has been put forth in a previous post on this thread.

900F
 
Piste;

The explanation you seek has been posted here on THR more than once. Please use the search function. In fact, I believe the very simplest, easiest to understand, difference has been put forth in a previous post on this thread.

900F
__________________

Well it eludes me after a good 15 minutes of the search function. Though I did find one of your previous posts where you responded to someone by saying to use the search function to find a definition in one of your prior posts. Strikes me that as "someone in the business" it would have taken you about the same time to provide a simple clear definition as it did to respond telling me to do a search, no? I've read a number of these safe threads over recent months and never seen a definition. And I reread this entire thread and there is no post with a definition.....nor indicating why I should care about the difference. If I missed it plesae point it out cuz I certainly didn't see it. Also did both a general web search and search of the UL site for "residential Security container" and both came up pretty empty. My personal opinion is that in general the threads about safes contain much more heat than light...and virtually none of them cover the most important dimension of security which is to take a layered approach. So until proven otherwise my current belief is that this "RSC" vs. "safe" business is just a bunch of malarky. Prove me wrong. It's been done before. If it can hold what you want it to hold and it has a "lock" on it...it's a SAFE as far as I'm concerned.
 
So until proven otherwise my current belief is that this "RSC" vs. "safe" business is just a bunch of malarky. Prove me wrong. It's been done before. If it can hold what you want it to hold and it has a "lock" on it...it's a SAFE as far as I'm concerned.

By your definition your house and automobiles are safes. They both hold contents and lock. The reason neither of those are a safe, is that both are easily defeated and are not cabable of protecting their contents from theft.

In a broad definition, anything that is designed for the secure storage of valuables is a safe. Even though gun safes aren't real safes, I still call them gun safes. Many document safes aren't real safes either, but we still call them safes as well. Many professionals do not consider a safe a safe unless it is constructed with plate steel or other very strong materials. Most gun safes are built of sheet steel and do not qualify.

If you have looked at UL ratings, then I am sure you have seen images of UL tags. The TL-15 is the minimal burglar rating offered by UL, and the tag states "burglary resistant safe" or something similar. If you read the UL tags as they pertain to the RSC designation, they clearly state "residential security container". It is important to note the difference, as it is important. A container is not a safe, and a safe is not a container.

Safes are pretty mysterious creatures for a reason. If everybody knew exactly what a safe was and how it worked, then it wouldn't be very secure. I don't expect my customers to know a lot about safes, so I hope they listen to some of what I have to say when I'm explaining the differences. Just because it is square, steel, and has a combination lock, does not make it secure. If this were true, then banks would stop spending hundreds of thousands of dollars on the vaults that they use, and would simply buy a $500 gun safe from the local sporting goods store.

Safes are a tool. Like all other tools, there are different tools for different jobs. If the tool is of higher quality, or performs multiple functions, then it may cost more than some of the others. Just like you wouldn't use a hammer on a screw, you wouldn't use a gun safe to protect valuable assets.

In many residential uses, a gun safe may serve the owners needs well. Many that ask about gun safes are more concerned about their children and smash and grab thieves. Anything that locks will serve these purposes. However, most of these gun safe companies have their customers believing that their safes will offer a great level of brute force resistance, and that is simply not true.

When it comes down to it, people should not be living with a false sense of security. They should be educated on the abilities of these products prior to making a purchase. If they wish to gamble, then that is their choice, but they should know the truth ahead of time so that they can make that deterimination on their own.
 
Piste;

Your post asking for an explanation is #50. Go to previous posts #31, 38, 45, and 46, the information is there.

900F
 
Bottom line is a safe is a small piece of mind item. IF you have a large and or valuable collection you will have to put an additional writer on your home owners insurance anyway. Installing a RSC/Safe is a good faith measure on your part. As stated before in this post given enough time or talent nothing is completely safe. So buy the best you can afford to protect your guns and or valuables. Photograph everything and document all numbers scan all important documents and email it to yourself and keep it in a folder that way if everything goes up in smoke you have some proof that you had it at one point. Also look in to a safety deposit box for all of your important documents that way it is on the bank if something happens.
 
CB900F and a1abdj, I have learned a ton of good info from your posts over the years and have saved a few for when I'm ready to buy. I never would have had a clue about these "safes" otherwise. Just wanted to let you know there are probably lots of quiet lurkers like me who appreciate the good info.
 
What's your warranty? Service Area?

a1abdj (and the rest of course),

I'm trying to learn more about safes as well. I don't need the highest state of the art safe (RSC whatever we are going to call it) but I would like to get my moneys worth.

There has been some decent comments about Liberty Safes and of course some bashing as well. I've read other pages that point out "things to look for" when shopping for safes and Liberty is recommended on some of those pages. However, those same pages also recommend a minimum of 10 gauge (as suggested here to) but the Colonial safes are 12 guage. I'm going to go look closer at one today.

Now I realize that given time anything can be opened/cracked etc. Honestly, I believe your everyday thief is going to take what they can and run and probably not even bother the safe. That's what you hope for at least. It's gotta be better than having them locked up in a carrying case or sitting freely in your closet.

Liberty seems to offer one heck of a warranty too. They will repair or replace it for free if it is damaged in an attempted (or successful) robbery. They'll even replace it for fire related damage. Additionally, they'll ship the new one to you (free) and take the old one away (free). Of course you need to have the police report filed and all, but I expect that.

There's a bighorn safe which is made of 10 gauge steel and sells for a few hundred dollars less. They offer a warranty that covers repairing or replacing the safe for free in the event of theft damage. However, you have to pay for shipping to and from the company. That's expensive.

Additionally, the Liberty warranty is fully transferable to anyone... even the next people you sell it to - not just "in the family". This is since 2005. The Bighorn (made by Rhinosafes) is not transferable.

Then there's the idea that the Liberty shops around here do all of their own work. If something goes wrong, it's fixed.

Based on this information, it seems like Liberty really takes care of their customers... not just for the first year, but for life. This is pretty important and if their actions are as big as their words - that goes a long ways.

On the other hand, since there have been some Liberty bashing, I am always up for learning more. Also, as said above, I'd like the best I can buy with my money. I don't want do go overboard as my firearm arsenal isn't substantial enough to warrant such spending (I'm not dumping 5K in to a safe. Looking to spend more around say - 1100.00 or so). With that said, I've checked out your website and the safes you have displayed there. Now, you are quite some distance from me as I am in the Northwest. However, you list a 22 and 30 gun safe by Zykan Diamond Series. The specs are these seem to be solid and the price is definitely reasonable. However, I see no information about your warranty and how it would compare to that of Liberty. I also don't see anything about your shipping costs, support or otherwise. Do you have distributors at all throughout the US... do you ship throughout the States?

And now to start the word tossing....

While reading over this thread, there are lots of claims about RSC's (I call'em safes - most people do) having been poorly designed or worthless etc. There has been reference to these safes being opened in the same amount of time that it would take to smash in a door and so on. There's even one claim about some guy in Australia that opened a with a can opener:

**Posted by a1abdj ****

Most of that safe's weight is gypsum board. The types of safes you are looking at use 1/10" (12 gauge) steel for both the bodies and the door.

There is a locksmith in Austrailia who has made a video of him opening a fire rated safe of similar construction with a hand operated can opener and a butter knife.

**********

I did a search and in fact found a "video" that showed what appeared to be this. However, it was a Chubb safe that was made of 1.1mm sheet metal, hardly 1/10".

Here's the video: http://www.kgbsecurity.com.au/safe_anim.html

Here's the story: http://www.kgbsecurity.com.au/safe_breaking.html

There's another reference to a video showing a guy flexing the door of a Liberty safe. When I think flexing - I think a considerable bend... like what you could do with a school/gym locker. There was other reference to seeing the reflection change based on pulling on the handle. That shows some give, but hardly flexing. If there is in fact a video of someone "flexing" a Liberty door, I've love to see it.

We can all say anything we want to say. It doesn't make it true. It may be, but proof (especially when it comes from one competitor slamming another company) really helps.

*************

Thanks for your time, sorry about the long post - but I'm really looking and really interested in finding out solid information.

-pdxwarrior
 
PDX;

The overwhelming majority of Liberties have no plate steel in their construction whatsoever. I'm told that the Presidential line of Liberty now does incorporate some plate steel in the door. But, whether or not it's full height/width is not stated in the company's 2007 brochure. And then there's the price level of the Presidentials. If you've got that much money to budget, I'm suggesting taking a look at a true safe regardless of who makes it, as I think you can do much better for a little more money.

Liberty specializes in sheet metal wrap on a fire resistant core to create what looks like a massively thick door. Seeing the flex, even if it is minor, tells the customer that it is indeed a wrapped door & not plate.

Plainly put, guage sheet metal is not a significant deterrant to any thief beyond the smash & grab type of miscreant.

900F
 
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I'm trying to learn more about safes as well. I don't need the highest state of the art safe (RSC whatever we are going to call it) but I would like to get my moneys worth.

For the last few years, the AMSEC BF series has been my first choice for safes in their price range. For the money, it's hard to beat the AMSEC.

There has been some decent comments about Liberty Safes and of course some bashing as well.

I personally don't have a problem with the products Liberty offers. I do however have a problem with their deceptive marketing practices. I believe that they purposely mislead consumers, and engage in other shady behavior. They are not the only gun safe manufacturer to do this.

I've read other pages that point out "things to look for" when shopping for safes and Liberty is recommended on some of those pages. However, those same pages also recommend a minimum of 10 gauge (as suggested here to) but the Colonial safes are 12 guage. I'm going to go look closer at one today.

Some of these people who make suggestions on what to look for in a gun safe have some good suggestions. Some of them make suggestions that sound good, but yet aren't based on any truth. These suggestions are often based on what these manufacturers claim to be important.

Let me give you a good example. Browning uses boltwork in some of their safes that is resistant to punching. On the surface, this sounds great. On a 12 gauge safe, it doesn't matter, because a thief could tear a hole in the safe with much less effort that it would take to even attempt a punch attack.

Gun safe companies tend to employ a lot of features found on real burglar rated safes. The reality is it adds to the price of the safe, and offers no real additional protection. This would be similar to installing 20 dead bolts on your sliding glass patio door.

Now I realize that given time anything can be opened/cracked etc. Honestly, I believe your everyday thief is going to take what they can and run and probably not even bother the safe. That's what you hope for at least. It's gotta be better than having them locked up in a carrying case or sitting freely in your closet.

This is true.

Liberty seems to offer one heck of a warranty too. They will repair or replace it for free if it is damaged in an attempted (or successful) robbery. They'll even replace it for fire related damage. Additionally, they'll ship the new one to you (free) and take the old one away (free). Of course you need to have the police report filed and all, but I expect that.

Many other companies offer this as well. The reality is that your homeowners or renters policy will pay for the loss. Your safe is no different than your door, carpet, and TV as far as your insurance is concerned. It's all personal property.

Additionally, the Liberty warranty is fully transferable to anyone... even the next people you sell it to - not just "in the family". This is since 2005.

Have you ever seen the movie Tommy Boy with Chris Farley?

Tommy: Let's think about this for a sec, Ted, why do they put a guarantee on a box? Hmm, very interesting.
Ted: I'm listening.
Tommy: Here's how I see it. A guy puts a guarantee on the box 'cause he wants you to fell all warm and toasty inside.
Ted: Yeah, makes a man feel good.
Tommy: 'Course it does. Ya think if you leave that box under your pillow at night, the Guarantee Fairy might come by and leave a quarter.
Ted: What's your point?
Tommy: The point is, how do you know the Guarantee Fairy isn't a crazy glue sniffer? "Building model airplanes" says the little fairy, but we're not buying it. Next thing you know, there's money missing off the dresser and your daughter's knocked up, I seen it a hundred times.
Ted: But why do they put a guarantee on the box then?
Tommy: Because they know all they solda ya was a guaranteed piece of ****. That's all it is. Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for right now, for your sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality item from me.
Ted: Hmm. Okay, I'll buy from you.
Tommy: Well I... What?

Then there's the idea that the Liberty shops around here do all of their own work. If something goes wrong, it's fixed.

This is very rare. Most Liberty dealers are not locksmiths, and are only retail stores. I do the delivery work for the local Liberty dealer because they are not equipped to do so themselves. I also do a lot of warranty work for Liberty. Again, they don't make a bad product, they just don't tell you the whole truth and nothing but the truth. Of course nowdays, who does?

Based on this information, it seems like Liberty really takes care of their customers... not just for the first year, but for life. This is pretty important and if their actions are as big as their words - that goes a long ways.

Based on my personal experience doing warranty work for them, they are a standup company. They do take good care of their customers.

Now, you are quite some distance from me as I am in the Northwest. However, you list a 22 and 30 gun safe by Zykan Diamond Series. The specs are these seem to be solid and the price is definitely reasonable. However, I see no information about your warranty and how it would compare to that of Liberty.

Each manufacturer offers their own warranties on top of the warranties offered by the lock manufacturers.

In the case of the Diamond, the safe has a 1 year warranty. The mechanical locks are typically warrantied by the manufacturer for 1 year, and the electronic locks can vary from 90 days to a year.

Regardless of who makes the safe, the warranty only covers the warrantied items. When your electronic lock fails on your safe 10 years after you buy it, the lifetime warranty does not cover it. That warranty covers the safe...hinges, boltwork, handle, etc. In some cases these companies will cover those items as a good will gesture, but are not required to. Just like cars, wear and tear is not covered. What is typically covered is defects in manufacture.

I also don't see anything about your shipping costs, support or otherwise. Do you have distributors at all throughout the US... do you ship throughout the States?

I can quote shipping based on your zip code (if you want, you can PM me with that information) and offer phone support myself on anything that I sell.

I am very particular with what I sell, because I do not like receiving those angry phone calls. Of all of the Diamonds I have sold (over 1,000 at this point), I have had only one problem serious enough to cause a problem. In that case the manufacturer contracted with a local locksmith to correct it, and all was well.

There are lots of problems safes can have through lack of maintenance, but problems with new safes are very rare.

While reading over this thread, there are lots of claims about RSC's (I call'em safes - most people do) having been poorly designed or worthless etc. There has been reference to these safes being opened in the same amount of time that it would take to smash in a door and so on.

There's a YouTube video recently posted in another thread on this forum which shows a Liberty Centurion being pried open in 1 minute 45 seconds by two guys with pry bars.

I did a search and in fact found a "video" that showed what appeared to be this. However, it was a Chubb safe that was made of 1.1mm sheet metal, hardly 1/10".

Your right. 1/10" is actually 2.5 mm, but in this case, it's doesn't really matter. This would be similar to saying you can rip one sheet of paper, but couldn't rip 3 sheets together.

You probably couldn't open a 12 gauge safe with a can opener, but it can still be opened like a can.

There's another reference to a video showing a guy flexing the door of a Liberty safe. When I think flexing - I think a considerable bend... like what you could do with a school/gym locker. There was other reference to seeing the reflection change based on pulling on the handle. That shows some give, but hardly flexing. If there is in fact a video of someone "flexing" a Liberty door, I've love to see it.

I've never seen a video, but I have in fact flexed a door using my knee up against the middle. Liberty uses wrapped doors. The doors on the lower end units are the same thin metals used on the bodies. They wrap it around a sheet of gypsum to make it look thick. Their highest end safe (sold as a Liberty) only has 1/4" plate in the door. Their National Security safes have thicker doors, but that design was not theirs...the bought out National Security.

We can all say anything we want to say. It doesn't make it true. It may be, but proof (especially when it comes from one competitor slamming another company) really helps.

One of the problems you have in this business is the secrecy kept by those entrusted with others' security. I know of all sorts of ways to defeat safes easily, but I can't always tell people what they are. They have to trust that I'm leading them in the right direction for the right reasons.

Most people in the gun safe business have no experience with safes. I'm a commercial locksmith that only deals with safes. My opinion is based on real life experience. You can ask anybody that I've dealt with in the past...I'm overly honest, even to the detriment of the products I sell.
 
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