To free float or not to free float

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GarandOwner

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It seems that there are two opinions when it comes to accurizing a rifle. Free float the barrel, or bed the handguard as not to let the barrel move. I am accurizing my 1903A3, and the next step I am going to do is glass bed the stock. My question is: Is it better to free float the barrel, or bed the stock and hand guard so that it is under pressure and to dampens the vibrations of the barrel when shot?

please explain your position on either method. Thanks!
 
As a rule...heavy barrels tend to do best when floated, while "sporter" weight barrels usually respond to a little tension in the forend...

BUT...

I've got a .308 M77 Ruger Ultralight that shot that theory down. Floated, it shoots into a minute or a little more. Let anything touch the barrel, and it gives up buckshot patterns.

Rifles can be obstinate and persnickety. Experimentation is often required to find the sweet spot.
 
Thanks for the info Tuner, I guess I will try free floating it first, compare that to the original group and see how it improves it, if that works I will leave it as is. If not then I will try bedding the hand guard, I am sure that would be easier than bedding the hand guard, finding that it DECREASES the accuracy of the rifle, and having to rout the bedding out later.
 
Yesterday, 09:36 PM #4
Clark





I float every rifle barrel.
I bed most rifle actions.
Rimfires and .223s with 1 in 16" twist do not have enough recoil to need bedding.
__________________

So if a .223 has a different twist than 1 in 16" it has enough recoil to need bedding?:neener:
 
I glass bedded my sporterized 03-A3 and free floated the barrel at the same time. One or both of the combinations assisted to reduce groups to under ~2 1/2" at 200yds. (Handloads, but Remington Bronze tips shoot very well also) Not bad for a rifle that's pushing 80 years old.

For those purists out there... Grandad cut the stock long before I got ahold of it.

I highly suggest the Timney replacement trigger! (not the competition model)

Heck, even taking the barrel band off of most Ruger 10-22's will improve accuracy. In my experience as a hobbyist, free floating barrels and glass bedding actions, every one of them, all sporter weight or military barrels, had some improvement regarding accuracy. Some significant, some not quite so. Each one of them had tighter groups, from the cold barrel shot to the second.

-Steve
 
I always start by free floating the barrel, then if I'm not satisfied with the results after shooting, start introducing some fore end pressure to see what difference that makes. I've only bedded about 8 rifles, all but one shot better with the barrel floated.
 
the easiest way to check how any single rifle will behave is by shimming the barrel with something such as a folded business card, either up close to the action to free-float, or out near the forend tip to simulate a pressure point....then, no theorizing is needed for that gun, and you can glass-bed whichever works best....
 
mejeepnut
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Join Date: 03-31-05
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Yesterday, 09:36 PM #4
Clark





I float every rifle barrel.
I bed most rifle actions.
Rimfires and .223s with 1 in 16" twist do not have enough recoil to need bedding.
__________________

So if a .223 has a different twist than 1 in 16" it has enough recoil to need bedding?

That's right.
Most mass produced 22 rimfire rifles are built with a soft steel, but some more expensive ones are made with 4140, and can be used for .223s, when found used and cheap.

.223 Velocities cannot stabilize a 55 gr length bullet with 1 in 16" twist.

There are some 33 gr and 35 gr bullets around that have been sold at a discount.

A few times, I have got such a barrel for next to nothing and built a 223 on a 1903 Turk Mauser action [remember the 4/$100 shipping and bayonets included?].

So this way for just a couple dollars I can make a sub moa shooting .223.
I have found that they do not need glass bedding.
The function of the glass is to provide a low compliance path from the barrelled action to the stock, but the recoil from the bullet and powder mass is so low, that the forces between the barreled action and stock are so low that wood touching in a few spots is low enough compliance.
 
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