TO POLISH OR NOT TO POLISH

[DetBrowning]

I mentioned to a friend that I'd just bought an IWI Masada 9mm pistol and wanted to go to the range to run a box of ammo through it.
He suggested that before running the pistol that I field strip it and polish all the metal to metal surfaces with 1800 sandpaper, not to remove and metal, just to polish the surfaces.
I then spoke with another person who said never put sandpaper, 1800 or otherwise on a pistol that's new.
Thoughts?

 

[trackskippy]

I wouldn't mess with it until you at least shoot it. Chances are, its going to be fine as it is.

And the more you shoot it, the better it will get, as will you.

 

[theotherwaldo]

I have never used sandpaper on a sliding machined surface unless it was unfinished.
I have used properly shaped burnishing tools on finished but slightly rough sliding surfaces, however... .

 

[crstrode]

I mentioned to a friend that I'd just bought an IWI Masada 9mm pistol and wanted to go to the range to run a box of ammo through it.
He suggested that before running the pistol that I field strip it and polish all the metal to metal surfaces with 1800 sandpaper, not to remove and metal, just to polish the surfaces.
I then spoke with another person who said never put sandpaper, 1800 or otherwise on a pistol that's new.
Thoughts?

Unless a metal object is dirty, rusty, greasy, painted, etc; the purpose of polishing is to remove metal.
SHEESH!

 

[.38 Special]

My experience has been that if you "fix" something before ever trying it, it won't work, and you'll spend the rest of your life wondering if was broken out of the box or if you broke it yourself.

 

[lysanderxiii]

Never use abrasives on a gun.

(Unless you are a gunsmith and know what you are doing.)

 

[fastbolt]

If it ain't broke ...

 

[JohnKSa]

Any abrasive is going to remove metal.
I've never heard of 1800 grit sandpaper. Usually the grit progression goes from 1500 to 2000.

I don't know that I would be in the camp of "never use abrasives on a new firearm", but I am in the camp of, "Someone asking for advice about modifying a brand new firearm should probably just clean it and shoot it." A person who has any business using abrasives on a new firearm should be knowledgeably confident in their ability to do so and should have clear goals in mind as opposed to just polishing everything.

 

[Rock185]

Just NO. FWIW, in the past year I have purchased two new guns that needed to go back to the manufacturers for issues. I have a blast cabinet, various abrasives for polishing, etc. but glad I did not do any "polishing" prior to sending the guns back. Make sure all is well with your new gun before changing anything.

 

[SSN Vet]

Shoot the gun b4 you tinker, and don't tinker unless there's a specific problem you need to address.

Me thinks your friend is trying to look smart.... but maybe isn't an experienced smith (hobby or pro).

 

[DetBrowning]

Thank you all, THR has spoken and was heard!

 

[CapnMac]

1800 grit is some specialized abrasive, just from memory.

On finished metal surfaces that's a bit like doing "touch-up sanding" on the dining room table with 80 grit paper.

Valve grinding/lapping compound would be as coarse as I'd start with. Others differ, and will take soft Arkansas stones to things.

 

[doubleh]

Fiddling with a new gun and then determining it has a problem may wind up with you having to pay for having it fixed when you send back to the factory. If the gun works it will do any minor "polishing" needed as it is shot.

There is nothing wrong with using abrasives on a gun for certain purposes as long as you know what you are doing. If not you can create problems. It is fairly easy to remove metal. Replacing it when it messes something up can be problematic

 

[film495]

if it was used I might clean it a bit more than new, but not much more.

 

[Hasaf]

I am in total agreement with "shoot it first." That said, many years ago I did detail strip my Makarov and polished all mating surfaces, other than the sear, with a greenpad. When I was done it was a much better gun.

 

[W.E.G.]

While you're at it, cut some "custom" grooves in the slide and the grip with your dremel.

If you're hitting low-left, you can work on those sights too.

We should have a poll as to which liquor you should drink while "fixing" it.

 

[.38 Special]

While you're at it, cut some "custom" grooves in the slide and the grip with your dremel.

If you're hitting low-left, you can work on those sights too.

We should have a poll as to which liquor you should drink while "fixing" it.

I seem to do my best damage with rye.

 

[MikeInOr]

Never sandpaper. For polishing metal I use Flitz or Red Rouge. I use Red Rouge with a buffing wheel or Dremel with a buffing bit. Flitz is good for smoothing out actions. I built a P80 with a cheap stainless slide that was quite rough. Flitz on the rails and racking the slide several hundred times smoothed it out nicely. I did the same for an overly tight and rough 9mm RIA 1911 with a resulting great benefit in smoothness.

For my pocket pistols, which often suggest a break in period, I will strip them and clean off all oil. Then reassemble them and rack the slides a few hundred times with the pistol completely dry. Before taking them out for the first time I will strip them again, clean them and lube them properly. All of my brand new pocket pistols I have done this with have been 100% from the first shot. I don't use any compounds when doing this, just dry metal on dry metal.

 

[dobedo]

 

[Riomouse911]

I will agree with the others and say, “Uhhh, no.”

Work it a bit, take it down, clean it, lube it, and then go shoot it? Yes.

Stay safe.

 

[hemiram]

Just put a couple of boxes of ammo through it, and you've done the same thing a less risky way.

 

[sevt_chevelle]

Before I even fired one round on a brand new CZ Shadow 2 compact, a far more expensive gun. I stripped it down, polished the trigger bar, sear cage, main strut, fitted an oversized disconnecter, replaced the hammer spring.

If one knows what they are doing, polishing the surfaces on a mass produced pistol can make a big difference.
If one is on a forum asking, I'd let nature take its course.

 

[trackskippy]

The only problem with doing stuff like that to a new gun before you shoot it is, if there is an issue of some sort, they may choose not to warranty it if it needs to go back.

I think you're better off running a couple of boxes through it just to make sure its OK, and then go from there if you feel the need. If there's something wrong, its fully on them, and you don't give them an out.

 

[halfmoonclip]

Been known to do a very slight 'fluff and buff' with either fine stones or crocus cloth; especially on guns not noted as being finished at the factory...Kahrs come to mind.
But as a general thing, with modern guns, made by someone who knows what they're doing (SIG, Glock, Smith, as examples) go shoot it.
Everyone here has given really good reasons.
Moon

 

[BreechFace]

Please tell me I’m not the only one who opened this thread and thought we’d be talking about these?