To reload or not to reload 7.62x39 for Mini 30?

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LiveLife

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Thanks to Dudedog, I have another caliber to reload ... 7.62x39 for Mini 30. I am shooting mostly 40-75 yards at soda cans, 2 liter bottles and bouncing impact seal targets.

I priced some components and this was the lowest cost projectile I could find:

.312" 123 gr Plated FMJ at 1000/$105 - http://www.shop.rmrbullets.com/312-123-Grain-Plated-FMJ-1000-Count-312-123-FNP-1000-Ct.htm

Here's my dilemma ... Wolf steel case ammo shot very well for me and using factory iron sights, I was nailing every can/bottle I could see (I have a red dot sight ready to mount for the next range trip). Since I can buy 20 round box for $5.47, I am not sure if reloading for this caliber is feasible.

What do you think?
 
Been there, done that.

Skip it. I attempted to reload for my Saiga, and soon realized how futile it was. You must use brass cases, and even if you somehow manage to source a couple hundred, auto loaders shuck cases pretty far and chasing them gets frustrating. You could always get a brass catcher.

By the time you buy powder, primers and special bullets, you'd be better off getting some Wolf and be done with it.

That being said I reload x39 for my bolt gun as I cast my own bullets. I don't have to chase cases and am forced to deliberately aim at the target instead of repeatedly pulling a trigger.
 
Those bullets are plated and velocities should not exceed 2000fps. Gunna be tough to keep velocity that low and still cycle the action.

If you are going to use these cheap bullets,ya might want to gather up a bunch of Lead bullet data.

Also check your bore diameter. Ruger has manufactured these with bores from .308 to .311.
 
I got into reloading 7.62 for my Mini 30 many years ago
I was using 123 gr .310 bullets from Hornady ( box said .311) soft nose for deer hunting.
Today I only target shoot with the Mini 30 & only use Russian bullets.
If I reload it is only to use up all the bullets I have on hand
 
I have a Sino-Soviet SKS, the one that Slick Willie outlawed.

My range does not allow steel clad bullets, and I have about 2 cases. So I started doing a Mexican style reload. Pull the bullet, dump the powder, size the neck. With 22 gr of 1680 behind a 150 gr. Sierra SPT I have been able to shoot groups that a quarter will cover. This is with a scope.

There is someone here who posts at www.sksboards.com in the reloading forum.
If all you're wanting to is hit steel pie plates the factory ammo will work fine.
But if you want accuracy, have the need to knock off a varmint or shoot a whitetail, reload.
 
Good to hear. I have A1680/H4198/H110/W296 on hand for .300 BLK but will consider using them for 7.62x39.

The Mini 30 came with scope and flat rail mounts so I may scope the rifle and do some accuracy comparison between factory vs reloads (gives me excuse to buy another set of dies).

If the accuracy difference is significant, I may end up using the cheaper factory ammo for red dot plinking and reserve the reloads for scoped shooting.

Anyone reloaded powder coated 7.62x39 lead bullets? Powder coated lead bullets were tested to 2700 fps without leading and I am eventually planning to cast them for .300 BLK.
 
I load brass for my seldom shot Mini 30. Mine just does not like steel Russian stuff, too many not set off by first attempt.
 
It's one caliber I do not reload. I picked up "some" ;) Wolf loaded ammo a long time ago. It is nice to just go and shoot and not pick up or worry about reloading. It just rusts into the ground!! (I actually do sweep up what I can)
 
steve4102 said:
Also check your bore diameter. Ruger has manufactured these with bores from .308 to .311.

I've got an old Ruger, I have not slugged it but I am pretty sure it is .308.

rhinoh said:
I load brass for my seldom shot Mini 30. Mine just does not like steel Russian stuff, too many not set off by first attempt..

I noticed the same problem with mine. Most fired the second time, though.

Now I will use the cheap stuff in my SKS all day long. I have not shot the Mini-30 in a while, but I plan to start reloading for it soon. I have some PPU brass factory ammo that I will pull the bullets, neck resize, and load some 308 bullets.
 
For plinking outdoors I use the Russian cheap stuff. I use my reloads for the indoor range that doesn't allow steel core ammo and for longer range better accuracy outdoors. You will be able to improve accuracy with your reloads, I have no doubt. 7.62x39 is the most expensive per round cartridge that I reload. If you decide to reload check out:

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.c...mm_point310_Diameter_123_Grain_FMJ_250_Count_

and on sale right now

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/18013

I have used both bullets with good results. The Hornady Amax and Zmax are the same bullet, one has a red tip the other a green tip.

I have found that buying PPU brand brass cased loaded ammo is the best source of brass. It can be had for $10 per 20 round box at Sportsman's Guide (they are out of stock at the moment though). You can probably find it many other places as well. I wait till they run a sale or free shipping like they have right now and stock-up.
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/ppu-762x39mm-123-grain-fmj-20-rounds?a=1584497

I use H4198 with good results. I have heard good things about A1680 and would have started with that if it had been available at the time.

Good point about the brass getting slung all over the place. I'm using a Saiga conversion and I had to get a brass catcher whitch is a bit of a pain.
 
If I shoot a steady diet of steel cases through a weapon, I usually expect to replace an extractor somewhere along the line. You might want to reassess your cost/benefit analysis with the money required to remove and replace a busted extractor included in the cost of steel-cased ammo. Include also some monetary value associated with the opportunity cost of not having the rifle around, during the time it's in the shop for the extractor.
 
I wouldn't do it. I don't think 7.62 Russian is worth the cost to reload, especially as hard as it is to find brass.

I'm starting to wonder about reloading for .223 now that AIM Surplus is selling Wolf for $130/500
 
Plenty of brass cases are available: WWB, Fiocchi, S&B, PMC, and even Bulgarian brass-cased, non-magnetic, boxer primed ammo. I still have about one-half of a 5 gallon bucket full of IMI that I purchased several years ago (benefit of being OCD).

I reload the heck out of it for my M-30. The only trouble right now is finding AA1680 powder anywhere. Seems the 300 AAC boys have bought it all up...

Anyway, I load 26.5 gr of 1680 behind Win 123 FMJ, 125 Sierra Pro Hunter, or Hornady Vmax with good results. I even shoot them in my Colt Carbine...

EDIT: And skip the steel or you will eventually break something.

M
 

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I guess I'm an inveterate piddler. If I (still) owned something that shot the .30 Russian short, I'd WANT to handload for it, just to see how tight I could make it group. I'd prolly also want to load up some rounds with 150-ish grain projectiles for whitetails, should they have the decency to appear when they're in season, and I'M armed (usually, only ONE of the aforementioned conditions obtains).

I sorta inherited a Vz52 carbine in 7.62x45 in payment of a debt, and DARN near sent off for dies to reload IT. Someone took pity on me & offered me entirely too much money to walk away from for it, so it left my grasp B4 I did much with it. If I'd consider reloading for THAT, then I'd SURELY try reloading for the .30 Russian short.
 
I've had good results with Extreme plated with IMR 5744 and H-4198. I can have the shell casings drop at my feet if I wish, accuracy is better than most Commie factory stuff.
 
I have about 400 reloadable brass for the X39 and have reloaded for my 2 SKS's and a Mini 30 in the past. My Mini 30 had a .308 bore. I have used AA1680 to work up loads that are accurate for both types. I tried the Xtreme heavy plated .311 bullets with good success as well as the ones mentioned above. Now I do not bother to reload any plinking/blasting ammo for the SKS as it is cheap to buy BUT I can if I have to. I have a couple good reloads for the Mini and have around 25 hunting rounds ready for it---that will have to do until more propellant shows up.;)

I had problems setting off the Wolf Military classic in the well used Mini and found that the firing pin spring was weak. A replacement solved that.

So reloading for it is worth the trouble for accuracy with the only minor problem being cheap brass is not readily available.
 
Please reload for it and let us know how it works out.
Since it has a new home it deserves some good food every once in a while.:)

I hardly fed it at all.
 
I reload 7,62x39...only because there is no subsonic ammo available to me for what it costs me to load it myself. Avoid Remington brass, as it uses small rifle primers for whatever reason. The rest are large.
 
Wolf steel case ammo shot very well for me and using factory iron sights, I was nailing every can/bottle I could see

I think you answered that one. If you're looking for a fresh project it sounds great, but the expense/availability of components turns me off on it. Sometimes I like the thought of reloading a certain caliber rather than the action itself. (witness my 6.5x55, 7.5 Swiss, 7.62x54R dies that are unused, Prvi is too good a deal until I get a pile of good brass)

For 7.62x39, I will only go down that road if one of the CZ bolt rifles in that caliber finds it way to me.
 
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