I saw the front sight on the center of the circle for each shot.
And did you see the sights move to that low left location when the second shot broke? Did you
know it as it happened?
If not, then you are in the land of a blink/visual-non-processing flinch. You must address that first, if that's what you're up against. May I humbly suggest this thread?
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-sights-and-quit-missing-low-and-left.854242/
If, on the other hand, you are aware of it happening, and you are
not blinking/blacking out, then it's time to look at the more mechanical factors. The most common reason for this shot pattern in a non-flinching situation is too much reliance on the right hand to control recoil - or, stated differently,
not enough left hand grip - combined with a misunderstanding of what you're trying to do with recoil management.
The vast majority of non-n00b shooters have at least a B- right hand grip. But the majority of the shooting population has about a D- left hand grip. They have the left hand somewhere in the vicinity of the gun, but the amount of control they get out of it is trivial.
This has a bunch of unfortunate consequences. One of them is that it induces the shooter to try to apply a lot of compensating force with the right hand to get the gun back down out of recoil... and that tends to lead to pushing down and left. If you mis-time that input and put it in before shooting, the gun goes low and left. If you apply
too much after the prior shot, then the gun passes back through the target zone and keeps moving down and left.
If that's what you're dealing with, there are two things to address. One is conceptual/intentional, and one is technical/mechanical.
First, you need to understand that effective recoil control for rapid shots is about getting the gun to return
on its own. It should not consist of a shot, gun rising, and then a subsequent push back down... although that's what a lot of people think, and what a lot of people do. Don't think about it that way. What you want is
positive, neutral control of the gun.
Think about walking a dog that is not well leash-trained. Or holding the hand of an unruly 5 year old as you walk through the toy aisle of the grocery store. They may pull left, they may pull right, they may go forwards or backwards. You can either end up jerking the leash or the kid's hand in a series of small tug-of-war contests. Both you and the dog or child will not move in a straight line... it will be miserable.
However, if you are significantly stronger than the dog or the child, then you could just focus on holding your hand in a fixed position relative to your body as you walk. Rather than actively jerking the kid or dog around, you simply hold your point of control static. You don't let the dog move the handle of the leash... it stays next to your right hip, if that's where your hand is supposed to be. Your hand may oscilate a little as the dog or kid bounces around, but you are
not going to let them move you or your hand's position in space. You have positive,
neutral control. No matter which direction they apply force in, your hand and arm muscles are already engaged, locked in place, and not going to allow much movement to occur.
That's what you want for your grip on the gun. You're not going to let the frame move vertically in recoil and then push it back down. You're not going to try to precisely time a big push down. You're going to hold your hands still in space. The gun will oscilate, but the sights will come back on their own when the slide closes.
That's the attitude/concept you want.
Second, in order to make this happen, you do need to apply a substantial amount of that continuous neutral force to the gun with your left hand. You need to get your left hand in a position of leverage, and you need it to stay
stuck to the gun frame in a fixed relationship. If you have to re-grip the gun after a shot, you have lost grip and your left hand did
nothing for you. Because the left hand's relationship to the gun is a "friction fit," rather than "interference fit," you will need to squeeze
hard. Hard enough that, when you take your left hand away from the gun, the imprint of any checkering on the left side of the gun should be visible in your left palm's heel for a few seconds.
Photos of your grip could help us diagnosis and offer specific advice. Video of your grip while shooting would be even better.
Once you get that sorted out, the simple drill is Stoeger's doubles drill. Which is not far off from what you're doing, except you take away the draw and do a series of doubles with attention to grip and sights and
seeing and processing the way the gun behaves. You will likely find that getting more help from your left hand makes the gun and sights behave better, and the impulse to shove with the right hand will be diminished.