Trigger return problem on Detective Special

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Yes, the trigger return on my Colt Detective Special (late model with shrouded extractor rod), a/k/a The Dick Special, seems very flabby. The trigger does not return as forcefully as, say, on my Smith 38. Partially as a result of that (?) the trigger will seem to lock up until I release it all the way and in fast double action the cylinder almost seems like it is skipping.
Will a stronger rebound spring fix this problem? Is this really a problem or is another difference between a Smith action and a Colt action (I notice this on my Python as well)?
Thanks.
 
I had the same situation with my 1962 vintage DS. It must just be the way they make them. Smith actions are totally different.
 
It's been a loooong time since I owned a Detective Special, but I seem to remember the trigger sticking on rebound. Also the cylinder turns clockwise, or opposite Smiths, doesn't it? Shouldn't be a big deal to replace the springs.
 
And made Marshall's post incomprehensible. And probably cut down on the number of people who are going to look at this and maybe help me. And denied more than a few people a good laugh, which they could surely use.
Some people have no sense of humor. :fire:
 
The Colt Detective Special doesn't have a rebound spring.

The Colt's entire action is powered by a single "Vee" spring. The upper leg powers the hammer, the lower leg powers the trigger, rebound, and hand that advances the cylinder.

Possible causes of weak trigger return are:
Dirty, gummy, dried out action.

Altered, or weak "Vee" spring. Often "Billy Bob" has attempted to "improve" the trigger action by altering or bending the "Vee" spring.

If you feel confident in your skills, try cleaning the action and re-lubing.
If not, send it in to a QUALIFIED Colt pistolsmith like the Colt factory, or Pittsburgh Handgun Headquarters.

DO NOT trust ANY local gunsmith's. They may say otherwise, but they are NOT qualified to work on the older Colt action.
 
This will sound dumb, but is the Colt action that much different from the Smith? I feel very comfortable working on the Smith actions but have never taken a Colt apart.
 
Take it apart and look at it. It can't be that complicated.
Click to expand...

You know, I have the idea that that will be the last thing I say to myself before I bring the ziploc of misc. parts to my gunsmith. :)
 
DO NOT trust ANY local gunsmith's. They may say otherwise, but they are NOT qualified to work on the older Colt action.
Click to expand...

dfariswheel knows whereof he speaks. All I can add is that if you've read Kuhnhausen's manual from cover to cover a time or two and are willing to go slowly, you may be able to work on a Colt D frame revolver—or not. They're thoroughly aggravating to work on. I ran out of patience with Colt revolver gunsmithing years ago.

The good folks at http://www.cylinder-slide.com do good work on Colt revolvers.
 
The older Colt action is absolutely NOTHING like the S&W, or any other revolver ever made.

Where many otherwise good gunsmiths get into trouble with the Colt is, they figure "What the hell, it can't be THAT different, if it's a gun, I can work on it".

WRONG.

I've seen a number of instances of nationally known, very famous custom pistolsmith's that got into big trouble because they simply didn't understand the action.
Yes, they were masters of the S&W and masters of the 1911, but the Colt revolver is neither, and they simple got in over their heads, and needed to be bailed out.

The old Colt action is a VERY complicated mechanism which has TINY working surfaces.
What you THINK parts are doing, is NOT what their doing.
The action's operation is not "logical" and a tiny change on one tiny area, of one part, can have an effect on seemingly unrelated functions in another area.

Each part in a Colt performs AT LEAST two or more functions, and each part is hand-fitted at the factory.

The old Colt action is looked upon as somewhat a "watchmaker's" gun due to the complexity.
Like a watch, the Colt action MUST be in perfect adjustment merely to work properly, and unlike S&W's and Ruger's, there is NO operating range.
It's either perfect, or its a mess.
There is no in between.

This complicated action and the difficulty in understanding and repairing it, is one reason only the Python is still made, and why it costs so much..

FAIR WARNING: This is not internet BS.
Get into a Colt action without knowing EXACTLY what you're about, and a minor problem that could be corrected in minutes by a minor adjustment can very easily result in a ruined gun.
 
Having worked on uncounted numbers of Colt double-action revolvers I would say that I agree with dfariswheel when it comes to “working†on the lockwork, but a competent person with good instructions to follow can dismount the pistol for cleaning.

Older Colt revolvers had a forged “V†mainspring which had more “snap†to it. Later springs were made from annealed spring stock that was formed into the V-shape and then heat-treated. These tend to offer a lighter trigger return, but sometimes it can be too easy.

I would suggest that the revolver should be cleaned and lubricated to start with. If the owner does not want to try and open the gun up they can remove the grips and then spray out the interior with a good cleaner. Follow with a light lubricant and blow out the access with an air hose.

If this doesn’t prove to be the answer, replace the mainspring because the present one is probably too soft.
 
Yes indeed, please beleive the gentlemen when they say the action is not to be taken lightly. However, the old v spring d and I frame lockworks is not one to be feared, but respected and cherished. It is truly a piece of mechanical brilliance. I find my self daydreaming about it. I am truly in awe of it's ability to do so much with so few springs.

The rebound lever is the heart of the works and everthing is affected in some way by it.

I have a love hate relationship with my colts. Because I live in an area where there are no gunsmiths.

To make a long story short, I tore into my d frame but neglected to put my files, stones and bending tools in the safe first. Later I had to fit a brand new rebound lever by myself because of a couple file strokes too much on the rebound hammer seat.

Funny part of it was the original problem wasn't even related. I could have cured it with a can of degreaser and some breakfree.

Nuff said about that........

If you want to tear into it, don't worry about. They come apart easily but you probably will be just fine taking off the side plate, spraying it down good and relubing. And when you get the grip off check to see if the bebound lever pin has slid sideways or is binding due to rust or lack of lube....that could simulate a weak spring.

The spring can be retensioned but not very much, due to the overall weakening effect it can have on the metal. If you retension it, bend it about an inch down from the hammer stirrup bracket slot on the spring and then just a little and only as a last resort as those springs are hard to find.

Also make sure where the spring is touching the rebound lever is not rough and digging....it has to be nice and smooth or it can slow things down.

Your cylinder skipping problem is most likely related to your return problem. Bolt timing is very critical on the colt and it seems even with it in time it's on the ragged edge of having throw by. But it almost sounds like you have a rough spot in there and it is letting go when you get past it. A certain amount stacking inherent in the colt but it should'nt go slow and then speed up in the middle of the da pull. Some lube will go a long way to helping that. After you get her cleaneded up and lubed, work the action a few hundred times and see if the problems clear up.

If not........you know the next step.

Good luck!! Colt's rule!!!!!
 
I have two Colts: NS and Det Spl. Both have sluggish and sorta sticky trigger returns. I just accepted that that's the way they are. They're probably normal for Colts but alot of us look for that Smith "feel"
 
Both have sluggish and sorta sticky trigger returns. I just accepted that that's the way they are. They're probably normal for Colts...
Click to expand...

That's normal for Colt revolvers in need of work, but completely abnormal for Colt revolvers in tip-top shape. A simple cleaning with any good cleaner and lots of Q Tips can work wonders, especially if the gun hasn't been shot a great deal in some years.
 
I have seen dfariswheel's posting on Colts for a long, long time.
I have never met him but have several times chatted with him in the past on the net.
I have NEVER met anyone any more knowledgeable on Colts in my life.
If dfariswheel says it, it's law on Colts.
PS
I accepted no funding or cash from dfariswheel to make these comments. :D :D :D
dfariswheel - PM me and I'll tell you where to send the check. :D :D :D

By the way, the trigger return on Colts are much more "softer" than any S&W and like revolvers. If you are used to shooting a S&W you may short stroke a colt if you are not careful.
I have MANY older model Colts with old actions. The weakest S&W trigger return is stronger than the strongest Colt trigger return on all of them. :)
 
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