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I wouldn't pull them; that's a PITA. Shoot them in a snubby.but, I’m pulling them, they bearly cycle the 52-2 slide
I wouldn't pull them; that's a PITA. Shoot them in a snubby.but, I’m pulling them, they bearly cycle the 52-2 slide
yeah, they kinda SUCK! but I got like 800 left, so Waste not Want NotBy definition it was a squib. And you said above it wasn't your first squib. I'm not going to pick on you, particularly because you noticed before you shot more after you stuck a bullet. But you might want to go over your reloading procedures. And now you know why everyone said plated Berry's HBWC are NOT THE SAME as typical soft/swaged lead HBWC with thin skirts. They need significantly more powder.
Now that was funny!!! Beautiful guns by the way Mark!you’re just going to pick on me
Shoot them out my Ruger 3” GP100! it can handle the HEATI wouldn't pull them; that's a PITA. Shoot them in a snubby.
CAUTION: The following post includes loading data beyond currently published maximums for this cartridge. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Neither the writer, The High Road, nor the staff of THR assume any liability for any damage or injury resulting from use of this information.yeah, they kinda SUCK! but I got like 800 left, so Waste not Want Not
Thanks! 4.5 HP38, are you loading them flush or a little bullet sticking out?CAUTION: The following post includes loading data beyond currently published maximums for this cartridge. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Neither the writer, The High Road, nor the staff of THR assume any liability for any damage or injury resulting from use of this information.
They are fine after you get enough powder behind them. I ended up with 4.5 HP-38 1.26". But they are not great for low-power, low-velocity bullseye-type shooting.
it was so pretty I wanted to shoot them right away… and that mouse fart HBSW was what I had in my bag. They work for 6” and below guns ?!?!?! guess 7.5 was too much barrel frictionNow that was funny!!! Beautiful guns by the way Mark!
Whatever 1.26" OAL is as noted above. IIRC there was a bit sticking out. They are a bit spicy particularly in a snub-nosed. But they group acceptably and shoot to POA with my irons. I think the GP100 is a great choice; on the off chance you maybe double-charged one it likely won't hurt the gun at all.Thanks! 4.5 HP38, are you loading them flush or a little bullet sticking out?
and awaaaa, you didn’t even low key picked on me!
I need to order some real HBWC. Midway has free shipping right now.Whatever 1.26" OAL is as noted above. IIRC there was a bit sticking out. They are a bit spicy particularly in a snub-nosed. But they group acceptably and shoot to POA with my irons. I think the GP100 is a great choice; on the off chance you maybe double-charged one it likely won't hurt the gun at all.
You could try it. But it's not brass; it's lead with a copper plating. And I wouldn't bother drilling/tapping. Just center punch it and drive a screw in. Don't destroy the barrel in the process... and be ready for the screw to stripWhat about drill and tap muzzle end of the brass offender.. install screw and pull out?
Tempting!!! but I’ll probably screw up<<< pun intendedWhat about drill and tap muzzle end of the brass offender.. install screw and pull out?
It's worth a shot IMO. Put some oil around the bullet. Drive in a long screw (a wood screw with coarse/deep threads), hold the screw tight horizontally in a good vise, open the action, and use a hammer and a piece of pine against the recoil shield to give it some good knocks backward away from the vise. Have some help to hold the gun so it doesn't drop to the ground if/when the bullet comes out. You should be able to tell if it's moving well before it comes free.Tempting!!! but I’ll probably screw up<<< pun intended
what the hey… once sec!!!It's worth a shot IMO. Put some oil around the bullet. Drive in a long screw (a wood screw with coarse/deep threads), hold the screw tight horizontally in a good vise, open the action, and use a hammer and a piece of pine against the recoil shield to give it some good knocks backward away from the vise. Have some help to hold the gun so it doesn't drop to the ground if/when the bullet comes out. You should be able to tell if it's moving well before it comes free.
If that doesn't work you can always remove the screw and drive the bullet back through the barrel with a brass rod.
I just make myself a nice Mint Julip with brown sugar and that’s the end of touching guns for the nightGood plan grasshopper; patience saves many future problems.
I ordered .35 brass rod (two of them) 12”Hopefully the rods you ordered will fit down the bore, hammering rifling into the outside of 7.5" of brass rod doesn't sound like fun. Check a short chunk in the forcing cone before pounding away. That's a nice little colt, be a shame to mess it up! +1 on the powder increase and pulling the rest of the ammo batch. Or run it in a tough 357, that possible double charge somewhere would keep me up at night!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you need about 5 thousandths smaller than .35" to clear the rifling? Maybe your colt has shallow rifling, but check first before you get too committed...if the rod is too big around you can chuck one up in a drill and put sandpaper around it while running the drill to get it down to size. I hate squibs, only ever had one from reloaded ammo and I was ready for that. Have had several from surplus ammo. They suck. But not as much as a double charge...in factory ammo.I ordered .35 brass rod (two of them) 12”
Good Point!Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you need about 5 thousandths smaller than .35" to clear the rifling? Maybe your colt has shallow rifling, but check first before you get too committed...if the rod is too big around you can chuck one up in a drill and put sandpaper around it while running the drill to get it down to size. I hate squibs, only ever had one from reloaded ammo and I was ready for that. Have had several from surplus ammo. They suck. But not as much as a double charge...in factory ammo.