Tumble cases after resizing?

[Sam Adams]

After many years of on-and-off reloading, I'm getting back into it in a serious way (mainly for accuracy, but the cost savings doesn't hurt). Anyhow, I'm going to (finally) spring for the right equipment and start cleaning my cases with a Midway vibratory tumbler next week, when my order arrives. Based on some posts in other threads (thanks, everyone), I will be getting walnut media at a local pet or farm supply store (which is not only cheaper, but saves a bunch on shipping), and putting some paint thinner in it. Step 1 will be to deprime using a Lee Universal decapper. Step 2 will be the walnut/paint thinner cleaning. Step 3 is to lube the cases with Hornady 1-shot case lube (I'm talking bottle-necked rifle cases) and resize. Step 4 is ????

The main question is: should I: a) clean the cases again at this point, or b) do all of my case prep, priming and loading and THEN clean the cases, or c) not bother with cleaning the cases a second time?

I specifically ask this question because I don't know whether the case lube will ultimately dirty up and/or clog my bullet seater die (and the crimp die, for those times that step is involved). I am not interested in having cosmetically perfect cases, just cases that are clean in order to: a) be able to inspect them for various defects prior to loading and b) to not damage my dies (esp. the sizing die).

The secondary question is: IF you recommend that I clean the cases a second time (either immediately after sizing or after the reloading operation is completed), should I use corncob media (either plain or with kerosene mixed in for a few minutes before adding the cases) or should I just use walnut media (again, either plain or with kerosene).

The final question: What size cut is best for walnut and corn media? I just called a couple local stores, and has 40 lb. bags of 1/4 inch cut corncob for $11 and 1/8 inch cut for $13. Walnut seems to be a consistent $15 for 25 pounds, with no particular cut specified.

Thanks VERY MUCH for any advice that you may give.

 

[Northwest Cajun]

Sam,
Here is what I do:
Lube, deprime, clean, trim then load.
I've thought about cleaning agian after I trim but dont see it's nessasary.
I get my corn cob/ walnut from the pet store. The smaller the better. I got the wrong size on time and having to pick midea out of 200 mil surplus.223 cases is a pain. I'll only use walnut for 223, 30 caliber on up gets corn.
ALSO, a drop of car wax in the tumbler usually does a good job on the shine.

Cajun

 

[30Cal]

I tumble first, wipe off, lube, then size. I use the tumbler to clean the brass prior to sending it into my precious sizing die.

Ty

 

[Dave R]

I also tumble BEFORE de-priming/resizing. I don't want that gunk in my sizer die, which is where ofrces are the highest.

I think the question is, do you tumble again AFTER lubing and resizing, in order to get the lube off.

Oddly enough, I just did that last night for the first time. In the past, I have just wiped the brass off with a damp rag after lubing and sizing (using One-Shot, which is water soluble.) But last night I was too tired to wipe all those cases. So I threw 'em in the tumbler.

 

[Swamprabbit]

I use an old fashion tumbler, not a vibrating one, so I have always been afraid that the case necks could get banged up during tumbling. Because of this, I only tumble my cases the one time BEFORE lubing and sizing them.

 

[Smokey Joe]

Procedure

I think DaveR has it right; the idea is to have clean cases for each step in the process. I clean empties before starting, and if/when I use a sizer die that requires lube I'd clean the cases of the lube before proceeding.

Re walnut or corncob: Have a gallon jar of both, started with the corncob, and it has worked so well for cleaning/polishing that I haven't even opened the walnut. Another option that has been suggested—no personal experience—is rice; I see no reason why that wouldn't work just as well.

As to the size of the corncob flakes, how could that make a difference? Go with whichever is cheaper.

As to additives to the polishing medium, personally I'm leery of anything that could possibly leave a residue on my cases, and that would include kerosene. Cases that don't polish up nicely in 1 hour or so, in plain medium, should get maybe 2 hours in the tumbler, and if they still look bad then they are probably junk. Unless you're dealing with some incredibly rare or expensive cartridge, don't use brass of questionable quality.

 

[donkee]

Call me psycho.....

1. I'll run the cases first through the walnut for an hour.
2. Decap/resize, trim, clean primer pocket.
3. Put in a bucket of hot soapy water for 1hr, shaking every 15 minutes
4. Rinse
5a. If the cases are tarnished badly (range pickups usually), I'll soak in solution of white distilled vinegar, 2 tbl spoons of salt and 1/8 cup of water (mixed by the quart) for 1hr shaking every 15 minutes. Then rinse well in warm water, spread on towel, and shake off as much water as I can. Then throw the damp cases in corn cob for a couple hours. Poke out any corncob in the cases/primer holes. If not to badly tarnished, skip and go to 5b.
5b. Tumble in corncob. If really nasty tarnish, do 5a instead.
6. Prime
7. Charge
8. Seat bullet
9. Crimp

You can start calling me psycho now. The vinegar solution followed by the corncob makes those puppies look brand spankin new. Even old tarnished range pickups if they are in reasonably good shape, soak overnight if needed...............

 

[Murphster]

Paint thinner? I must have missed all those threads; never heard of using it in a tumbler. Not to tell you what to do, but if paint thinner and or its fumes are flammable, I'd be wary of having them hovering over the electric motor that's running my tumber. I use Nu-Finish car polish with my tumbling media. Bright and shiny with no muss or fuss. I have read the many threads regarding case lube gunking up dies. I use the Hornady spray on everything from .380 to 45-70 and haven't had that problem. Every 500 or so rounds, I'll clean the dies with a cotton swab and acetone, but they usually aren't too bad. Good luck and welcome back to reloading.

 

[goon]

I tumble first.
That way I clean any dirt off the cases before I run them into my dies. It also eliminates me having to dig the media out of the flash holes.
Even if there is a peice stuck up in there, it gets punched out with the primer.
Works for me.

 

[Sam Adams]

Murphster

Here's one of the threads: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=66257&highlight=paint+thinner+corn

Check out #2 and #6

Pay attention to Mr. Jones - he's probably had more experience in reloading than any 20 of us who frequent this forum.

There are several other threads, with essentially the same people and message. Jones says that the paint thinner helps walnut to "cut the crud" on cases, and given his experience, I'll take his word for it.

 

[tbeb]

I only reload for handguns. I tumble the cases, and then deprime/resize. Next I inspect the cases, and measure overall length. (I tumble with crushed corn cobs, and nothing else added. I use this media because a huge bag was given to me.)

 

[Cacique500]

On the walnut media, make sure it doesn't have any of the red rouge in it - I think some of the lizzard litter walnut has that in it...makes a mess.

You also may want to consider leaving the spent primers in the case until AFTER you tumble...keeps crap out of the primer pocket and out of your press.

I run corncob first for about an hour and then in walnut for about an hour (both DRY...except for 1 capful of turtle wax in the walnut...and if you do that make sure you run your tumbler w/o brass for a few minutes so it mixes)

Anyway, after all that the cases come out looking shiny and new

 

[Murphster]

Sam Adams: Thanks for the thread! Sounds like those folks have used it (paint thinner) more than enough to prove it doesn't create a fire hazard in a tumbler.

 

[usp_fan]

With OneShot you don't need to tumble again. I've never had sticky cases or cases that gather dirt. I've never had this lube accumulate in my seating die.

That is just my experience using RCBS dies and loading .223 and .308.

Now if I run out of OneShot and have to resort to the feild expedient non-stick cooking spray--I tumble again to remove the gunk.

--usp_fan

 

[Black Snowman]

I tumble again to take the lube off because I find it's the easiest way. My process is: Tumble, lube, size/deprime, tumble for a little while to remove lube, trim, clean primer pockets if nessisary, prime, charge, seat, crimp if nessisary.

Oh, and as to the field expediant cooking spray. Skip the spray and use a little canola oil in a bag and shake to coat. Much cheaper, less messy, more even coating.

 

[ftierson]

Here's what I do, for what it's worth...

1. Deprime cases with Lee Decapping Die. If necessary, swage primer pocket with RCBS Swaging Die. Also clean primer pockets.
2. Wash cases in hot water/Palmolive Dish Soap solution and dry on deck in sun.
3. Resize.
4. Wash cases as above to remove resizing lubricant.
5. Trim cases if necessary (always trim rifle, but not pistol). Debur mouth.
6. Polish cases in Midway Vibrator Cleaner (using corncob media and Midway polishing agent).
7. If pistol, expand mouth.
8. Drop powder.
9. Seat bullet.
10. Crimp bullet.

Appropriate inspections between steps.

Works for me.

 

[autoload]

media additive

Somebody made a suggestion to me that makes complete sense, yet I have never seen it mentioned in a forum, though I am still a somewhat of a newbie to most forums, but is there a reason nobody mentions Brass-o as a walnut additive. I think that should work wonderfully. I am picking up my tumler tonight as I just got my first set up for reloading this weekend at the local gun show.

 

[M2HMGHB]

Brasso can weaken brass because of the ammonia in it.

 

[ftierson]

What M2HMGHB says...

Don't use Brasso for shining up cases that you plan to reload.

As a matter of fact, just to prevent mixups, don't use Brasso on any cases at all.

(It's great for a lot of other uses, however, like polishing the scratches out of your watch crystal).

 

[DragonFire]

Brasso

It's been a while since I read the thread, I think it was on GlockTalk, but it was my understanding that Brasso was one of the few brass cleaners that didn't contain ammonia.

I've used it on and off for a couple of years on my pistol brass without any problems. I mix a little of it with a cap full of mineral spirits/paint thinner.

I don't think there's enough "vapors" from the paint thinner to cause a problem.

 

[ftierson]

Don't use Brasso for brass cartridge cases if they're to be reloaded...

I haven't bought any Brasso for the past couple of years but, unless the new cans are different, it says right on the side that it contains petroleum distilates and, you guessed it, ammonia...