Tuning extractor to lower trajectory

[Southerncomforthemi]

Hi,

i have just fitted an extended ejector and this seems to have cured my ejection problems.

HOWEVER... 25% of the brass is now hitting the underside of the grip mount rail.

The end of the ejector is square.

How do I change the ejector face to make the brass eject a t a lower trajectory.

The recoil spring is 10lbs using 4.3 of WST with 185gr bullet.

Not sure I can go much lighter with the powder to 50 yards and keep tight groups.

So changing the point where the ejector hits the brass seems the only way out.....any tips on doing this?....thanks

 

[Drail]

If you've never done this before it helps to get a couple of spare ejectors in case you go too far (an extended ejector gives your more material to experiment with). What you need to change is the first point of contact with the case by the ejector. The lower the point of contact the more loft the case wll get. Higher point of contact should chuck the case out the side without lofting it. Another thing to look at is the extractor's hook. The hook should only contact the case's rim on the inside flat portion of the hook. There should be no contact with the case rim bevel. By sliding an empty case up under the extractor seated against the breechface with the slide off the gun, hold it up to a good light source and look at how the hook is holding the case. A magnifying glass helps. Bill Wilson's book on customizing 1911s shows what it should look like. By filing the ejector's nose at an angle you can raise or lower the contact point. Be patient, this takes a little time and repeated disassembly and reassembly at the range. I think your recoil spring weight is maybe a little on the light side.

 

[Southerncomforthemi]

Hi Drail,

I am only using 4.4 of WST for 185gr swc for bullseye.

I have angled the ejector so the brass hits the very top edge.

The brass is still coming out at a very high angle around 55 degrees and hitting the underside of the grip mount rail.

If the ejector angle was say 40 degrees all would be fine.

Does the extended length of the ejector have a dramatic effect on the angle that the brass is thrown at...... should I consider shortening it.

 

[Drail]

It will have an effect but usually only in how early the ejection process starts. You can also adjust the ejector nose shape by angling the first point of contact from left to right. This may give you more side impulse. Also the shape of the hook can be adjusted to pull the case rim at a higher or lower point by careful filing. It's pretty much a matter of adjusting the hook contact with the rim so it's not too high above the ejector's nose. In some cases you will run out of adjustment because of the way the slide was machined and bored. Can you tell if the case is hitting the port on the way out? (brass marks) Is the port lowered or flared any? I wish I could help you more but without seeing the gun I can only give generalities here. Keep trying and if you can, get another extractor to swap in to see if it makes any difference. This is one of those things that can drive a person insane.

 

[Southerncomforthemi]

thanks....insane ..yes

There are no markes on the inside of the slide by the exit port so I do not think the cases are bouncing up.

Also there is only one mark on the case and that dent on the front edge of the case, a perfectly flat area 1/4 inch wide about 1/4 inch down the case.

I can clearly see where the case is hitting under the back edge of the rail and then sometimes the case is flipping up and tapping ( tiny marks ) on the scope extension tube at the rear.

The case must be rising nearly vertically and not moving out to the side enough.

I have checked the tension on the ejector and that is fine, just enough to hold a loaded bullet in place when shaken about.

Am I right in your drawings do you suggest shaping the ejector in two planes to help the case move to the right so the ejector face would be triangular when viewed looking down on the frame from above?



.

 

[Drail]

Yes. I can't help but think that on your gun something else is going on here. Suggest you try to find a good smith and advise us of what he thinks. But try to get some feedback on his work before you let him start modifying the gun. There is a gentleman on this forum by the handle of "Tuner 1911" See if you can contact him and see what he thinks. He is very good.