Types of AK47s.

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One thing with the Yugos, not all aftermarket add ons (I don't recomend many, but some improve the AK substantually) will work with it due to different dimentions IIRC.

The lack of a chrome barrel isn't that big a deal IMHO due to there being very little corossive 7.62x39.
 
Rasputin,

An excellent one to start with is the Saiga. It's a very nice rifle with excellent fit and finish. It's also the cheapest. But it comes with a thumbhole stock, which many folks don't like. However, you can learn on this Saiga, decide if you like the rifle or not, and then later, you can either do the conversion yourself or send it somewhere like to Chris (I forget his web site and business name, he does very nice Saiga conversions) and he will convert it to accept hi-cap mags, add the US parts to be 922r compliant and add a nice stock set. The great thing about Saiga's is that they are very nice rifles (they are Russian-made) and they are only going to go up in value. You used to be able to get a Saiga for about $180 a few years ago.

A guy that I work with bought his son a Saiga for his first rifle a while back and they couldn't have been happier with it.
 
I have 3 different AKs, and the best version I've seen are the VEPRs. Incredibly smooth actions, excellent fit and finish, and built on the RPK receiver, which helps with accuracy. I see that they are starting to be brought into the country again. I'd recommend picking one up.
 
I'm starting to look around at AK's as well, and have some noob-ish questions.

Assuming you are buying from a moron at a gun show, who may or may not know anything about what they are selling, can someone write out a few specific physical features to look for to determine what you are buying? You get a bonus cookie if you post pics. :)

For example:

- What is the visual difference between a chrome/normal barrel? Chrome is shinier?
- What features on the receiver to look for (i.e. I see all kind of talk about "dimples" and other things).
- Are canted sights obvious? Will they be obviously tilted? Left/right, or fore/aft?
- Can all receivers accept a folding stock later?
- If you want a scope later on, the mounting rail is on the left side, correct?

I assume that I will pick up one at a gun show sometime, but want to walk in with every shred of knowledge I can. Thanks to all the pros!
 
I just got a GP-WASR at a gun show. A few things:
-They come with a bit of cosmoline on them. This stuff needs to be cleaned off. Disassemble the rifle and soak what you can in mineral spirits. Use a paint brush and spirits to get the rest off.
-Remove the furniture, wash it in soapy water, and let it dry. Then take some fine grit sandpaper and/or 0000 steel wool and smooth the wood down. I applied 3 coats of tung oil, knocking down the grain with steel wool inbetween each coat. The wood isn't the prettiest, but it's comfortable to hold and shoot with.
-Lube it well! I was having some cycling problems that were partially caused by lack of lube. Also, cycle the action at least 100 times, vigorously, by hand.
-Always let the bolt slam forward, i.e., do not ride it forward otherwise it will hang on the hammer.
-Do expect a "break-in" period for the gun. Mine didn't cycle normally until 80-100 rounds were put through it.


I also wanted something inexpensive with which to learn about AKs and the WASR is perfect for that. I will not spend $800+ on an AK. For that kind of $$$, I'll buy an AR. The WASR is a TON of fun to shoot.
 
- What is the visual difference between a chrome/normal barrel? Chrome is shinier?
You mostly have to go by make/model (i.e., all the Romanian civvie AK's are chrome lined, AFAIK); research what models are and aren't before you go to the show. However, the chrome lining on my SAR-1 extends out of the barrel a little onto the muzzle crown, and looks like satin silver paint (not high-gloss) in contrast to the surrounding finish.

- What features on the receiver to look for (i.e. I see all kind of talk about "dimples" and other things).
That depends on the model. The receiver is wider than the magazine, so there has to be something in the magwell to narrow that space so the magazine doesn't flop around. SAR's have stamped oval dimples above the mag opening; WASR's have riveted blocks instead.

You can see the magwell dimples on my SAR-1 pretty well in this photo:

gallery_260_23_20379.jpg


The dimple everyone is talking about is the oval indentation just above the magazine, behind that big rivet.

- Are canted sights obvious? Will they be obviously tilted? Left/right, or fore/aft?
Left/right is the problem (occurs when whoever assembled the rifle from parts didn't take the time to line everything up straight). If the cant is bad enough to worry about, it will be obvious.

What you want to do is shoulder the rifle a little low (or look at it from the rear) and see if the front sight assembly is leaning left or right compared to the gas block (the slanted metal part above the barrel, in front of the upper handguard). The gas block may also be misaligned, so check both to ensure they're on straight.

-Can all receivers accept a folding stock later?
As far as I know, yes. HOWEVER, you may be limited to a certain type of stock. SAR's and WASR's can take Romanian and East German sidefolders, as well as aftermarket folders from Ace and Tapco. Some other makes/models may require different stocks (the Polish underfolders come to mind). Vepr's are built on an RPK-style receiver and don't accept AK-style stocks.

- If you want a scope later on, the mounting rail is on the left side, correct?
Yes. Left side, sort of above the trigger guard area. It should be attached to the receiver by two rivets, one at the front and one at the back. Sorry I don't have any pictures handy.

Some other helpful info:

The lever on the right side, just above the trigger, is the safety. All the way up is safe, all the way down is fire. The magazine catch is a little lever on the gun's underside, at the front of the trigger guard/rear of the magazine well.

With the safety on, you can pull the bolt back just far enough to see that the chamber is empty. However, to pull the bolt all the way back, the safety has to be off (safety feature to keep you from accidentally chambering a round, I suppose). I'd ask the seller before working the bolt, though.

The button at the rear of the receiver cover is the disassembly button. You push that button in all the way, and the receiver cover comes off, along with the recoil spring guide and recoil spring. Field stripping instructions are all over the 'net. I don't think it's necessary to field strip one before buying, though (I didn't).
 
In the $500 or less range I would consider a Mak 90 if you come across one. I still see them in this area in excellent to NIB condition for around $400 to $500. These are among the best ak's ever imported. Personally I would prefer the MAK as it is not a parts kit gun slapped together by the importer. Not that all the parts guns are bad, many are just fine, but you can get a problem gun. Ask any Mak 90 owner and you will likely hear reliability is 100%. Also Maks are chromed bore, chamber and gas piston and the quality is top notch. Most Maks also have fantastic triggers. Gook luck!
 
Only thing about MAK's is that IIRC, they lack the optics rail, and most I've seen have thumbhole-type stocks. The optics rail can be retrofitted by a gunsmith, but you may have to play the 18 USC 922(r) parts count game (more $$$) to fit a regular stock. They may also have longer barrels.

If an optics rail, unattached pistol grip, or carbine-length barrel are important to you, you'd want to check into that. Having said that, I have a friend with a MAK-90, and it is indeed a very well-made rifle.
 
benEzra, many thanks for that post. That's exactly the kind of info I was hoping someone would put up. Much appreciated!

I thought of one more question. Trigger slap seems to be an issue, and is mostly corrected by the proper parts. Is there any way to see/feel that you've got a good trigger job (without actually shooting it, of course). I know that's not too big a deal, just curious.
 
I need to read this thread when I get home from work...Is there any way to subscribe without posting in a thread?
 
I keep hearing a lot of good things about Saigas in other threads. Can anyone tell me more about those?
 
chromed bbl rifling

an earlier posting said of chrome lined rifling that most ammo available is not corrosive. hence, chromed bores are a non-issue.

i disagree. uncle sam did a study and found that chromed bores keep the original rifling contour about 1 1/2 times longer than non-coated bores. the problem same cures is gas errosion from mega hot propellent burning upon firing. the first signs of displaced metal is rounding of the corners of the rifling "lands".

{as opposed to the "valleys" created when the rifling is cut in a smooth bored "blank"}

this is why the H&K roller block rifles sported a polygon, hammer forged style of rifling. the corner of rifling is most susceptible to gas errosion. polygon rifling has no raised corners. matter of fact, H&K even chrome lined the bores to further aid with this malady.

corrosive ammo is a mortal kiss only for those who fail to clean the bore and gas system, post-shoot.

while i'm at the pulpit, some flavors of mikey kalashnikov's ugly little warrior even go as far as to chrome the op-rod piston, gas tube bore and bolt.

but these are weapons that the original posting author:

May 5th, 2007, 06:31 PM #1
Rasputin747

should keep in random access memory until he sees if the kalashnikov system melts his butter.

i DO agree with an above promoted statement that >1K priced AK's seem as realistic as values that are thrown about on "antiques roadshow" to me.

still, i bought my valmet way back when they cost what mudpuppy says the bulgarians run now. another top notch AK clone is the galils...but if you need to know the current american inflationary notes requirement for same...don't bother to try finding one.

gunnie

PS a bud-o-mine's older brother had the dis-stinked pleasure of digging up one of charlie's mass graves in 'nam. they did their best to hide the body count whenever possible. same a function of manipulating the american news media, much the same as insurgents in the sandbox do on yer boob-tube every day lately. it is hard for me to understand why alpha romeos are able to do this with their obvious ploys, and every government attempt to justify the conflict gets magnifying glass scrutiny.

at the bottom, in their haste, they had tossed in an expired soldier who still had his AK in tow, on a shoulder strap. the grave was estimated to be about six months old, from a fire fight that had taken place then. you can probably imagine how hard on iron the fluids in that hole had to be!

he dropped the dust cover, pointed the '47 upward, and emptied the magazine.

they ARE reliable as a claw hammer.

gunnie

take care of your weapon, and it'll take care of you.
 
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I thought of one more question. Trigger slap seems to be an issue, and is mostly corrected by the proper parts. Is there any way to see/feel that you've got a good trigger job (without actually shooting it, of course). I know that's not too big a deal, just curious.
I don't know how you'd tell without shooting it (it is POSSIBLE that if you dry-fired it, and then held the trigger down with your left hand while cycling the bolt with your right, that you'd be able to feel the trigger move on a gun with bad slap. I don't know if you would or not.

My SAR-1 is generally slap-free, but develops just a touch of slap when hot. Go figure.

I do know that the newer GP-WASR's or WASR-GP's (not sure what they call them) have the Tapco G2 trigger group, which is reportedly very good and slap-free. If you do get a gun with slap, upgrading to the Tapco group is the easiest way to fix it, or so I have heard.
 
I know some say $600 is too much but just a couple years ago they couldn't (preban type anyway) be touched for under $1000.

Those Yugo underfolders look nice.
 
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