Uberti cattleman help

[cobrajammer]

new revolver functioned ok little rough took it apart installed wolf spring kit and smoothed some rough edges, put back together and cylinder and hammer lock up unless i dont tighten trigger spring all the way down this happens with stock spring also, if i leave the tension off the trigger spring a little everything frees up but seems a little too much and trigger doesnt have all clicks. sorry for the length of this just trying to be accurate.

 

[Old Fuff]

Check and see if the trigger side of the trigger & bolt spring is interfering with the trigger's free movement.

Assemble the lockwork components, but leave off the mainspring and trigger guard. Cock the hammer while holding the revolver upside-down and watch what happens when you cock the hammer.

Another less likely possibility is that something is catching the hand. Remove the cylinder and see if the hammer-cocking issue goes away.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Let me get this straight. You say:

"unless i dont tighten trigger spring all the way down"

Does that mean you are not snugging the screw down all the way that holds the split bolt/trigger spring in position? Part #10 in the following illustration.



That screw is meant to be snugged down all the way to do its job properly. End of story. If you leave the screw a little bit loose, the split spring will not function properly. Don't forget, that spring does two things. It returns the trigger and it pops the bolt up. The last thing you want is to weaken the force that the spring applies to pop the bolt up into position. If you want a lighter trigger pull, then adjust the spring. You can do that either by bending it or thinning it. But I warn you, either of these operations takes a bit of experience to do properly, particularly thinning the spring.

By the way, just how light do you want the trigger pull anyway? All of my Colts and Ubertis have a trigger pull of right around 2 1/2 pounds. I consider anything less than that to be too light. A trigger pull that is really light can be dangerous.

 

[BCRider]

Yep, the trigger spring needs to be fully tight (not over tightened, just seated fully and snug). If you are trying to lighten the trigger return by leaving it less than fully tight it's likely that your cylinder bolt (the stop pin that comes up through the frame to catch the cylinder notches is called a "bolt" on these guns) isn't locking into the notches and that results in the gun not locking up correctly.

If you're simply puzzled at why it seems to not work until you do fully tighten it then this is also the answer. You NEED enough spring pressure from that spring to make the bolt with the split spring tails skip over the cam on the hammer. Too light a trigger/bolt spring will make that less than reliable. So it's no wonder it won't work until the trigger/bolt spring is fully in place by correctly tightening the hold down screw.

And no need to apologize for a "long" post. I wish everyone filled in the details like that. Too often we need to go "data mining" and grill the poster for all the key information. You did just fine. And better too much than not enough anyway.

If we missed the mark feel free to ask away.

 

[cobrajammer]

i am not leaving the screw #10 in the diagram unseated because i want less trigger pull its just that the hammer and trigger are locked up unless that is not fully seated and when it is not fully seated i have too much slop in the cylinder rotation and i am only getting 2 clicks when cocking. some problem with the cam? thanks for the help

 

[cobrajammer]

all better now

just for everyones knowledge had to replace hammer cam was the problem thank you so much for all the help.

 

[MartinS]

Thanks for the final report to resolve the thread. You did well and you are on your way to be the kind of competent tinkerer that helps others out around this electric fire, especially since you have been shown the value of reading and re-reading the Original Post.