I just started cowboy fast draw and purchased a Uberti cattleman new model. The purchase included an action job. After a couple weeks of practice with a laser cartridge in my hall way, I think the sear/bolt spring broke. Half cock works, cylinder rotation behavior is normal, but the hammer will not stay in full cock unless the trigger is manually held forward. Here’s my question: the action job set the trigger pull at 2.5 lbs (at least that is what I was told). How do you set the trigger pull? Are the springs sold by weight or are they sold stock and you have to do something to them (filing/trimming) to get the pull you want. I’ve seen “reduced tension” springs but beyond the obvious, I’m not sure what exactly that means. I seem to be really confused about this. I have discovered that a 3 lb trigger pull is recommended for CFDA so since I need to do something, replacing the spring with a rated 3 lb pull is what I would like to do. Thanks, Bill.
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Jim Watson
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The first thing I would do is open it up and look inside for the failure.
The second thing I would do is to contact the seller for something bought for "just started", it ought to be warranted.
Trigger pull was probably set by a combination of sear engagement (which I do not consider user adjustable) and trigger spring tension. The standard SAA trigger/bolt spring is a flat spring slotted into two leaves, one side for each part. It can be "adjusted" (reduced) by grinding or it can be replaced by a bent piano wire spring. I don't think you can get a specific weight of pull by ordering a different spring. Frankly, I'd replace it with whatever the seller said he used and carry on.
I am sure Driftwood Johnson can elaborate and show pictures of the parts involved.
The second thing I would do is to contact the seller for something bought for "just started", it ought to be warranted.
Trigger pull was probably set by a combination of sear engagement (which I do not consider user adjustable) and trigger spring tension. The standard SAA trigger/bolt spring is a flat spring slotted into two leaves, one side for each part. It can be "adjusted" (reduced) by grinding or it can be replaced by a bent piano wire spring. I don't think you can get a specific weight of pull by ordering a different spring. Frankly, I'd replace it with whatever the seller said he used and carry on.
I am sure Driftwood Johnson can elaborate and show pictures of the parts involved.
Jim, thank you so much for the information. It makes sense. I did purchase a gunsmith screwdriver set earlier in the summer to protect the screws and watched some videos. I need to be able to be self sufficient since I’ll be traveling around the country to compete....at some point. I did call the seller last night and left a message. I’ll do the disassembly today to get access to the spring. I guess I’ll need a trigger pull gauge next. This should be fun.... I’ll post result. Any suggestions on a good gauge? Bill
Jackrabbit1957
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The replacement spring that you install is most likely gonna make your trigger pull a bit harder, you're on the right track by using a scale to check it. I would consider the 2 1\2 pd pull a bit light for what you're doing with the quick draw stuff , thats just my opinion.
David Hoback
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Honestly, I wouldn’t worry about using a draw gauge. Trigger pull is an objective thing. I’ve been setting up triggers on many, many, many different firearms for over 2 decades. And NO! I do not use a Dremel!
How the trigger FEELS to the individual is much more important than a number of pounds listed on a gauge. A gauge cannot tell you pre-travel, over-travel or creep....it can not tell that gritty feeling. I’ve set up triggers on 1911’s that a person would SWEAR is under 2lbs. And they are amazed when a draw gauge reads 4lbs! When I was a young shooter, I to would think in terms of pull weight alone. But as I learned trigger tech, I let my finger be the gauge. I don’t even use a gauge now.
If you are interested, I recommend you familiarize yourself with each part of the trigger system. Learn to assemble/disassemble, until you can do it easily. Study the relationship between the components. Look at the spring(s). If it’s a round or flat bar type, measure the OAL & wire diameter. If a coil spring, measure its O.D., OAL and diameter of the wire. The real heart of a trigger is the relationship between trigger/hammer & sear surfaces. This is what controls the overall FEEL. It’s not difficult to learn, but not just something to attack with a Dremel! They are NOT a trigger’s friend! Files, & stones are what is needed for these. Remember that a trigger is a relationship of Two Rotational Planes with perfectly Perpendicular surfaces.
How the trigger FEELS to the individual is much more important than a number of pounds listed on a gauge. A gauge cannot tell you pre-travel, over-travel or creep....it can not tell that gritty feeling. I’ve set up triggers on 1911’s that a person would SWEAR is under 2lbs. And they are amazed when a draw gauge reads 4lbs! When I was a young shooter, I to would think in terms of pull weight alone. But as I learned trigger tech, I let my finger be the gauge. I don’t even use a gauge now.
If you are interested, I recommend you familiarize yourself with each part of the trigger system. Learn to assemble/disassemble, until you can do it easily. Study the relationship between the components. Look at the spring(s). If it’s a round or flat bar type, measure the OAL & wire diameter. If a coil spring, measure its O.D., OAL and diameter of the wire. The real heart of a trigger is the relationship between trigger/hammer & sear surfaces. This is what controls the overall FEEL. It’s not difficult to learn, but not just something to attack with a Dremel! They are NOT a trigger’s friend! Files, & stones are what is needed for these. Remember that a trigger is a relationship of Two Rotational Planes with perfectly Perpendicular surfaces.
Thanks everyone for the input and advice. I did summon some courage and with this info, some videos and after purchasing a good gunsmith screwdriver set, I removed the trigger guard to get access to the sear/bolt spring. It appears not to be broken or damaged. Next is a call to the seller. I think this is a sear issue?
Jackrabbit1957
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Sounds like the sear has broken at the end of the trigger, or hammer full cock notch is damaged. Take it apart and look at it, this is not a complex machine, nothing to be afraid of.
Thanks Jackrabbit1957, I'm planning to do just that. One question about tightening the screws. I have been looking to see if there are torque specifications for the 1873 SA cattleman but have not found anything. I've downloaded the Uberti instruction manual but the torque specs are not listed anywhere. I have not been able to locate a "service manual". Does such an animal exist or is it the wild west when it comes to tightening the screws? If any gunsmiths have guidance I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance. Bill
David Hoback
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Just tight, but don’t try to be Hercules torquing them down! They are not torque specific, so not a must to stick to a specific.
A good way to think about those screws, is tighten to what you can with a small screwdriver without stripping the screw head. Envision that. That’ll be tight enough.
BTW: here’s a decent video you can follow.
A good way to think about those screws, is tighten to what you can with a small screwdriver without stripping the screw head. Envision that. That’ll be tight enough.
BTW: here’s a decent video you can follow.
David Hoback
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I wish I could help you some more. This “diagnose via Interweb“ can be difficult. I do my best to help though.
Shame...of you were near me, I’d say c’ mon over! I’d show you every last detail on disassembly, and slickin’ up the Action. They really aren’t difficult. Just helps if you have a person can show you the little things. I didn’t have anyone...Had to learn everything on my own. Which, I thank The Lord for His Grace in blessing me with knowledge retention. But would have been a whole lot easier with some kind of mentor. So, I like helping others out where I can. I’m actually disabled, and I don’t do any of this for money. My wife & I are very blessed.
Shame...of you were near me, I’d say c’ mon over! I’d show you every last detail on disassembly, and slickin’ up the Action. They really aren’t difficult. Just helps if you have a person can show you the little things. I didn’t have anyone...Had to learn everything on my own. Which, I thank The Lord for His Grace in blessing me with knowledge retention. But would have been a whole lot easier with some kind of mentor. So, I like helping others out where I can. I’m actually disabled, and I don’t do any of this for money. My wife & I are very blessed.
David, you have already been a great help! Thank you! The video was awesome. I was able to locate the corresponding re-assembly video as well. I contacted the company I purchased it from and they are going to take care of the issue. They're in Texas and a real pleasure to talk with and do business with, and they really helped me get started! So i'm covered in that regard. I live in CT, just getting started in Cowboy Fast Draw. Probably start competing towards the end of this year or the start of next year.
David Hoback
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Glad about that my friend. And great news on the company taking care of it!
Good luck on fast draw. Have a BLAST.. LOL! Seriously..report back when you do. Would love to hear your thoughts on it.
Good luck on fast draw. Have a BLAST.. LOL! Seriously..report back when you do. Would love to hear your thoughts on it.
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45 Dragoon
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Whbjr24,
I think it would behoove you to do away with the flat springs/wire (copy) springs and use coil springs if your going to shoot fast draw. An action stop and a bolt block are a must for that setup, as well as the timing is rather critical. This will give you a S.A. that will last rather than needing constant repair/re-builds. Nothing "out of the box" (factory tuned or not) is going to stand up for fast draw.
Mike
I think it would behoove you to do away with the flat springs/wire (copy) springs and use coil springs if your going to shoot fast draw. An action stop and a bolt block are a must for that setup, as well as the timing is rather critical. This will give you a S.A. that will last rather than needing constant repair/re-builds. Nothing "out of the box" (factory tuned or not) is going to stand up for fast draw.
Mike
Jim Watson
Member
That is what I called the "bent piano wire spring." It is a modern replacement for the original flat slotted spring.
It is not likely to break but is usually installed because it is weaker and reduces the trigger pull without gunsmith work or without much.
As Mike says, fast draw, even the cowboy version, is hard on the gun. Serious competitors would have "a pair and a spare." One gun shooting, one in reserve, one in the shop.
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