Wanna Try Wet Brass Cleaning Method

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We're neighbors (EG) and our water if pretty hard. For the F.A.R.T. I'm using a .45ACP case of LemiShine.

I got my LemiShine and Armorall Wash-n-Wax at my local WalMart

That makes sense. I just did a little research and I may be on river water after all even though I am just off Florin and I5. I thought the two Sac Water collectors (one is near the confluence and the other by Sac State) were supplemented by wells, but it doesn't look that way. EG is definitely well water.

https://www.egwd.org/about/

I guess I could get a test kit to be determine the hardness but at the end of the day I am going to go with what works after some experimentation.

Either way, even with a whole .45acp case.... that is so much less than unclenik used for 5% even if Lemishine is 100% citric acid.
 
Harder water tends to be higher PH, Higher PH takes more acid.
How much citric acid is not an exact science, you may find a 9mm case full is enough.
In the event a 9mm case full is enough a .45 case full won't hurt, just wasting citric acid, but if you order it from Amazon 5lbs goes a long way.
I keep a small qty in an old spice jar. I don't even measure exact anymore, I just dump some in to the lid of the jar,measure by eyeball and dump it in the tumbler.

Yes you can put in to much acid, but you would have to make an effort to do it.......
 
When I started wet cleaning I was on well water. It was very acidic, from all the coal around this area. I only needed to add 1/2 tsp of citric acid to get my brass clean. I switched over to county water for I could not keep the ph adj on my well for more than a couple of days. I had to up the citric acid to 2 tsp to get my brass clean. This water is what I call soft since it's hard to get the soap off of you.
 
Is it really necessary to deprime brass before wet cleaning?

If so, why?

Short answer is NO.

Personally I like my brass really clean and shiny so I do multiple passes of cleaning. My first run is for 30 minutes with pins, dawn and citric acid, dry it in my brass dryer. Assuming it's indoor range brass (outdoor range brass I process differently and will take some longer initial runs) the brass is honestly clean enough to reload.

The reason I do this is because I don't want dirty brass going through my case feeder or dies. Some folks use a decapping die, but you will still be spreading carbon and LEAD dust all over everything if you try to decap dirty brass.

One thing to keep in mind is that you really shouldn't let wet primed brass sit around wet. It's best to dry it out as soon as possible even if it means getting it discolored slightly in the oven. The reason is depending on the primers, some of them will build up slight corrosion and when you go to deprime it you end up with a ringer. With that being said from my experience in processing over 50K brass, 20K of it outdoor brass I've only had about 25-30 ringers and 99% of them were from outdoor brass that probably went through multiple wet dry periods were it sat wet for weeks.

My next step is to then resize/deprime nicely cleaned brass. If you like, you can even very very lightly lube the cases (like 2 sprays of hornady one shot in a bag of 1000 and shake them around). After that is done, I run them again for about an hour to an hour and a half with dawn, citric acid and steel pins. After this is done I rinse them off and run them one more time for just 5 minutes with a tiny bit of citric acid and wash and wax. No pins this time. This last run is just to give them a quick bath in wash and wax which will keep them from tarnishing (for me it's lasted over a year without tarnishing).

When I show my reloads to folks they say they look cleaner and better than factory rounds and that is all that is important. If the rounds don't look good then they are not worth using. J/K. But in all seriousness I do take pride in my work and don't want sloppy dirty half assed rounds.

One other thing to also consider. Some folks don't bother resizing/depriming before doing their reloading on a progressive press (i.e. they take the cleaned/dried cases from my step one and reload those) . There is nothing wrong with doing that to save time and realistically clean primer pockets don't make a difference, but I much prefer to just add the extra cycle and recommend that you do as well. The reason is I like to get into a routine while loading my rounds, that is I eyeball every powder drop and eyeball every bullet drop on each cycle. When I skipped the resize/deprime cycle I would occasionally end up with a crimped case, a case that cracked after resizing, a ringer, a 380 (when doing 9mm) etc. While I detect all of these once they hit station 2, they cause a disruption in my reloading flow. I'd rather take the time up front to catch all of these while just sizing/depriming and then when I'm actually reloading it's 100% problem free and I can concentrate on just the powder drop and bullet drop. This method has been rock solid for over 30K rounds.
 
I guess if you were loading on a single stage loader, depriming first would not be an extra step. But for a progressive, it'd be a PITA
I 'deprime-only' on my LNL-AP all the time,, just as fast as I can stuff-em in the shell plate
Would hate to do the same on a single stage though.,
 
I 'deprime-only' on my LNL-AP all the time,, just as fast as I can stuff-em in the shell plate
Would hate to do the same on a single stage though.,

It’s not as bad as you might think. I do all my reloading on a Lee single stage press. Decapping is pretty quick but I am not a high volume shooter. I have a gallon jug for range brass. When it gets full I deprime and clean it in my pickling solution (hot water, tsp of Lemishine, squirt of Dawn). I have some really grungy brass to clean now that my replacement decapping pins are here. We’ll see how well that solution works on really nasty range brass.
 
Would hate to do the same on a single stage though.

It was nearly as fast as the Lee APP for me, but with a lot more movement.
I can grab out the deprimed case with my middle finger and the back of my index finger, then insert the new case. Drop the finished one In the Done bucket as I grab another case, operating the press arm as I reach. One movement across for each case cuts effort but requires dexterity.

Now my left hand lazily fills the Lee collator that I covered three of the holes and taped to the top of a drop tube, and shakes it to feed the ever cycling APP “Dedicated Decapper.”:thumbup:

I look like an octopus when I’m weighing every drop, charging and seating a bullet for my 50AEs…

Handloading calisthenics!
Maybe I’ll hook a barbell to the LnL AP so I can do squats while it loads!:D


One thing is for certain though. It’s all easier when the cases are cleaner. :)
 
I love retirement. I was able to indulge myself guilt free with a few experiments last night.
  • As I stated, I am trying to come up with more organic method than a tumbler or sonic cleaner. I want to stay away from another "machine".
  • Real Estate is in very short supply in my garage. It's cluttered up with a table saw and assorted power tools, a squat rack and 500lbs of weights.
  • I also wanted to see if I could meet the challenge of doing it with equipment and materials I already had on hand.

I did not deprime first. I think next test batch I will. Good excuse to buy an APP.

My formula for 1 quart of BOILING water:
  • 1/4 cup of citric acid for about a 5% solution, which is pretty strong I know.
  • Two 45 acp cases of Dawn
  • 1 tablespoon of salt
I then mixed it all in a one gallon metal paint can (my only purchase)

Followed that up with two rinses using hot tap water.

I first did a small test batch and stirred it briefly and it worked pretty well. So I did a larger batch per above and let it "soak" for about an hour. As some predicted, the brass had a slight salmon pink color to it so I will probably reduce the soak time and percent of acid next time.

Stirring it up. May use a paint mixer and drill next time.

Stir.JPG

Before
Before.JPG

After
After.JPG

Sheen is hard to photograph, but the difference was marked. Very clean to handle, which is the main thing I want.

I made up an "oven" using a 400F+ heat gun and a one gallon metal paint can that dried them pretty fast, but the cases I dried with this method did not come out as shiny because that seemed to create some surface oxidation.

Oven.JPG

Next test batch I will reduce the amount of citric acid to about 2-3%
 
If your that strong you may want to do a backing soda rinse to neutralize the acid. Cut your time way back too, too long for that strength acid.

Yeah. That's what I was thinking. My brother is bringing over his APP tonight, so the next test batch will be done with decapped brass and I will cut the citric acid at least in half. Then rinse with the baking soda. It's not like Arm & Hammer is expensive or hard to come by. I keep some on hand anyway because when it comes to acid reflux it's abot the best medicine you can buy at any price. It's the duct tape of powders.:)
 
Okay. My original question has been answered and I changed my mind. Even though it may not be required, it's really a good idea to deprime before wet cleaning and after testing my brother's APP tonight it is not really going to add a lot of time. Plus it's really fun to clunk clunk clunk and watch the brass drop into a one gallon bucket placed in the press. More than enough reason to order one, which I just did from Titan..
 
I just cleaned that grungy batch of green range brass and it came out fine. There are a few cases (mixed 308, 223, and 9mm) that have some darker areas left but that’s not a concern. If it weren’t for looking them over in full daytime sun I probably would have missed the spots.

I just eyeballed it today but it was probably 1tsp of Lemishine powdered citric acid and half a tap of Dawn in 2 quarts of steaming hot tap water. I agitated the cases by hand for about 20 minutes.
 
I just cleaned that grungy batch of green range brass and it came out fine. There are a few cases (mixed 308, 223, and 9mm) that have some darker areas left but that’s not a concern. If it weren’t for looking them over in full daytime sun I probably would have missed the spots.

I just eyeballed it today but it was probably 1tsp of Lemishine powdered citric acid and half a tap of Dawn in 2 quarts of steaming hot tap water. I agitated the cases by hand for about 20 minutes.

Wow.... 20 Min?
My tumbler is a Harbor Freight rock tumbler, I run steel pins and Dawn, and I've been runing 3 hrs per batch.
 
For what it is worth I deprive prior to wet tumbling my brass simply in the hopes that my primer pockets get cleaned.
 
Wow.... 20 Min?
My tumbler is a Harbor Freight rock tumbler, I run steel pins and Dawn, and I've been runing 3 hrs per batch.
I have the same setup and run a 1 hour timer with the drum packed full of brass. 30min is clean, but not super shiny, so I run it for an hour. If the timer had a 45min selection I would probably use that.
 
I just eyeballed it today but it was probably 1tsp of Lemishine powdered citric acid and half a tap of Dawn in 2 quarts of steaming hot tap water. I agitated the cases by hand for about 20 minutes.

YUEP, that's how I do it also! Never have timed it though. I just agitate it while surfing the forums and then rinse in how water, towel dry and then into the toaster over on timer for 1/2 hour @200* then leave it until cool enough to pick up. Then when needed I size it, uniform primer pockets, trim and then into corn cob for an hour or so to get the sizing wax off. Comes clean enough for me!
 
I can run 4 batches of normal dirty range brass in about an hour and a half. That’s about a gallon of mixed brass. I have a bunch of 223, 308, and 30-30 cleaned but I used nearly all my 9mm. I have some 357 cases to clean but those are much cleaner to start with and I’ve just been wiping them off and reloading them.

Wow.... 20 Min?
My tumbler is a Harbor Freight rock tumbler, I run steel pins and Dawn, and I've been runing 3 hrs per batch.

it seems like a lot longer with my hands stirring a large bowl and colander full of brass and hot water. It’s pretty shiny when I rinse and spread it out on a towel. It turns a tiny bit darker when I oven dry it.
 
I used to not deprime and never had a issue. But I always baked my brass at 200deg f after wet tumbling in a tumbler with dawn, lemishine and pins to dry. I have since started depriming before wet tumbling. Just makes everything a little bit cleaner. I use 2 dual drum harbor freight tumblers. A pinch of lemishine a few drops of dawn and a teaspoon or 2 of pins. Run them for a hour or two and then seperate the media and dry them.. They always look as good as dry tumbling but without the dust .
 
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