Want a rare Chinese rifle for $35?
- Thread starter silverlance
- Start date
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Ohio Rifleman
Member
I don't have much money, and this seems too good to be true. But I've read the posts so far and it seems that it's actually in decent condition. If I'm just looking for a shooter, what, if anything, do I need to do to this rifle if I were to get one of my own?
In 1954.12, 12 would be the month. So far, I've seen that only on carbines made at factory 296. The receiver markings would read:
296
five three year type (in Chinese)
yyyy.mm
serial number
The ones made by factory 26 would look like:
five three type (in Chinese)
yyyy
26
serial number
Just want to add that 296 and 26 both refer to the same state armory at Chongqing.
296
five three year type (in Chinese)
yyyy.mm
serial number
The ones made by factory 26 would look like:
five three type (in Chinese)
yyyy
26
serial number
Just want to add that 296 and 26 both refer to the same state armory at Chongqing.
A lot of cleaning supplies, wood refinishing stuff, and elbow grease.
If you're just looking for a shooter and not particularly interested in Chinese guns, I'd recommend getting a re-arsenaled Russian M44 or any other Mosin Nagant variant. They're still available at around $100 or less.
Ohio Rifleman
Member
I have more powder solvent and lubricating oil than I know what to do with. Wood refinishing stuff? I don't have that on hand, but I might be able to dig some up, if not, I can buy some. Elbow grease? Check. I really don't care about the nationality of my firearms, as long as they work. I just hope these last a while, cause I'm still recovering from my broken leg.
Maybe I could send someone to my local FFL to pick it up for me, but the legality of that is fuzzy...Edit: I'm only 20, so I can't get a C&R license.
silverlance
Member
Ohio,
You can buy a Russian M44 at any Big 5, Durnham's, Cabelas, etc sporting goods store around the nation. Tens of millions (correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think so) of them were made.
However, go into any of those aforementioned stores and ask for a Chinese Type 53. They will say, "Huh?" This would then be followed by a patient explanation to you of how there is no such thing as a Chinese M44.
You only need refinishing stuff if you are desiring of sacrificing authenticity in favor of cosmetic appearances.
I deliberately did not refinish my rifles. Here is what you will need to do:
1: strip everything down to itty bitty parts.
2: soak all small parts in a bucket of #9
3: wash barreled receiver in either hot soapy water or Powder Blast.
4: Scrub away rush with steel wook, steel wire brushes (auto shop), brass wire brushes, or those green dishwashing pads. Any of the above will do.
5: dry receiver and finish cleaning with CLP
6: dry parts and finish cleaning with CLP.
7: wash stock in hot soapy water. i did it in my friend's bathtub when I was housesitting for him. I forgot to clean up afterwards and he thinks to this day that the cats pushed kitty litter into his tub.
8: wax stock in Birchwood Casey gun wax (about 3 bucks) or buy a tin of Finn Army Wax from one of our members here (pm me if you need his name). He sells them for 8 bucks shipped.
9: reassemble.
10: now heres the question. not a single one of these rifles have turned up having bad headspace, but it would be prudent to do so anyway. if you live near me i will headspace your gun for free, but if not then you can either buy a gage or borrow a friend's. or, if you are really cheap, tie it to a tree and test fire it.
That's pretty much about it.
I love my two T53s and they do the job they were designed for well - killing a man at 50 to 100 yards.
You can buy a Russian M44 at any Big 5, Durnham's, Cabelas, etc sporting goods store around the nation. Tens of millions (correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think so) of them were made.
However, go into any of those aforementioned stores and ask for a Chinese Type 53. They will say, "Huh?" This would then be followed by a patient explanation to you of how there is no such thing as a Chinese M44.
You only need refinishing stuff if you are desiring of sacrificing authenticity in favor of cosmetic appearances.
I deliberately did not refinish my rifles. Here is what you will need to do:
1: strip everything down to itty bitty parts.
2: soak all small parts in a bucket of #9
3: wash barreled receiver in either hot soapy water or Powder Blast.
4: Scrub away rush with steel wook, steel wire brushes (auto shop), brass wire brushes, or those green dishwashing pads. Any of the above will do.
5: dry receiver and finish cleaning with CLP
6: dry parts and finish cleaning with CLP.
7: wash stock in hot soapy water. i did it in my friend's bathtub when I was housesitting for him. I forgot to clean up afterwards and he thinks to this day that the cats pushed kitty litter into his tub.
8: wax stock in Birchwood Casey gun wax (about 3 bucks) or buy a tin of Finn Army Wax from one of our members here (pm me if you need his name). He sells them for 8 bucks shipped.
9: reassemble.
10: now heres the question. not a single one of these rifles have turned up having bad headspace, but it would be prudent to do so anyway. if you live near me i will headspace your gun for free, but if not then you can either buy a gage or borrow a friend's. or, if you are really cheap, tie it to a tree and test fire it.
That's pretty much about it.
I love my two T53s and they do the job they were designed for well - killing a man at 50 to 100 yards.
Silverlance,
I really would like to know your thoughts on the wax.
Do you use that on all your milsurps, or just the T-53?
Is it just for preservative reasons, or does it provide an historically accurate finish?
Your stock has a lot of red to it. Is that from the wax?
My T-53 stock is very dry. I'm not someone inclined to do a "new furniture" like refinish to my milsurps. All I've ever used is BLO or pure Tung oil, as appropriate. I've never done the oven cleaner or dishwasher method.
I know that the original finish seems to be a varnish, like the Russian M-N's, because there is some of it left.
While its nice to see a firearm go up in value, I have no intention of selling this, and I do plan to shoot it.
You obviously have an opinion. Please share your thought process.
My inquiring mind wants to know.
silverlance
Member
Sure!
Well, the birchwood casey wax is actually quite good in that it's easy to apply and does a good job of protecting and glossing. however, it doesn't last very long and doesn't realy sink into the wood.
Alibama's Finn Wax lasts much longer and sinks into the wood, but requires removing from the metal parts because it's rather thick (like shoe shine).
I would recommend that you use the birchwood casey wax for your t53. just put a coat on, wait an hour, put another coat on, and so forth. it will eventually sink in enough that you won't have a dry gun anymore.
Well, the birchwood casey wax is actually quite good in that it's easy to apply and does a good job of protecting and glossing. however, it doesn't last very long and doesn't realy sink into the wood.
Alibama's Finn Wax lasts much longer and sinks into the wood, but requires removing from the metal parts because it's rather thick (like shoe shine).
I would recommend that you use the birchwood casey wax for your t53. just put a coat on, wait an hour, put another coat on, and so forth. it will eventually sink in enough that you won't have a dry gun anymore.
Ohio Rifleman
Member
That's a lot of solvent. I've only seen them sold in these little bottles, around 4 ounces or so. How would you go about getting a whole bucket full of it? I assume you'd want to do it outside because the fumes would be horrendous. It gets pretty bad when I'm just cleaning my guns normally!
The_Antibubba
Member
Forget the rifle!! Once folks realize that website is a Pre-99 they'll be all over it!!! 
I have four Mosins. Why do I need another (like "need" has ever been a valid reason)?
*sigh* I really have to get that C&R paperwork out.
Silverlance, did he say how many he has in stock?
I have four Mosins. Why do I need another (like "need" has ever been a valid reason)?
*sigh* I really have to get that C&R paperwork out.
Silverlance, did he say how many he has in stock?
silverlance
Member
he has a bunch, but let's put it this way - i sell stuff on ebay and i've had buyers happy with their purchase link me to this thread as a "tip".
hehe
hehe
Red Tornado
Member
OR,
You can get a gallon of mineral spirits for a few bucks and it will melt cosmoline right off.
Alternatively, there are several alternatives. Do a search on cosmoline removal and be prepared. Everyones got their pet method, and pretty much all of them work.
My stock is currently under the seat of my truck in a trash bag, and it may get some oven cleaner when it comes out.
RT
You can get a gallon of mineral spirits for a few bucks and it will melt cosmoline right off.
Alternatively, there are several alternatives.
Do a search on cosmoline removal and be prepared. Everyones got their pet method, and pretty much all of them work. My stock is currently under the seat of my truck in a trash bag, and it may get some oven cleaner when it comes out.
RT
quick over view,
Overal.- SPIDERS!!! i swear there were spider eggs in mine. i cnat imagine what else they would be. any way. no 2 numbers match on mine. the magazine and butt plate are Izhevsk. the reciever is from arsenal 26. the bolt is chinese, havnt paid much attention to it.
Metal.- surprisingly good condition once cleaned up. some blueing left. the bayonet is in less than ideal condition in terms of finish, but its still great for 35$
Wood.- down and dirty. lots of gouges and scratches, dry as heck. plenty of splinters to go around
did a quick clean up of the metal. just to catch any rust early. gunna do a more indepth treatment once i got some 00 wool.
il deal with the wood next weekend.
Overal.- SPIDERS!!! i swear there were spider eggs in mine. i cnat imagine what else they would be. any way. no 2 numbers match on mine. the magazine and butt plate are Izhevsk. the reciever is from arsenal 26. the bolt is chinese, havnt paid much attention to it.
Metal.- surprisingly good condition once cleaned up. some blueing left. the bayonet is in less than ideal condition in terms of finish, but its still great for 35$
Wood.- down and dirty. lots of gouges and scratches, dry as heck. plenty of splinters to go around
did a quick clean up of the metal. just to catch any rust early. gunna do a more indepth treatment once i got some 00 wool.
il deal with the wood next weekend.
Attachments
BobCav
Member
A big old pot of boiling "Purple Power" will melt cosmoline in short time and keep everything contained.
CajunBass
Member
I got mine in yesterday. They appear to be in about the same shape as the one Hoppy posted pictures of. I won't have time to fool with them for a couple of days, but one thing I could tell is they are DIRTY. Not rusty or anything, just plain old dirt soaked in cosmoline.
Harry Paget Flashman
Member
The five I ordered came in today. Two were for a friend, three for me. I had the FFL randomly divide them before opening the boxes just to be fair about who got what. He did, but when my friend and I got to the gun store the FFL jokingly told my friend he'd complied with randomly sorting the rifles but that I'd been lucky and got two of the pristine arsenal refinished ones. It was a nice joke at my friends expense.
The rifles are everything I expected, which was beat up but serviceable. They were very dirty but with less rust than I'd imagined. There was just a coating of dry, dusty "crud" on them. Almost no cosmoline on mine except for the bolts which were packaged separately. The bayonets were packed separately too.
I am expecting that with some steel wool for the steel, fine sandpaper for the stock and a solvent they are going to clean up quite nicely.
I did some research on the net and came up a few useful links about the Chinese Type 53. www.mosinnagant.net/global%20mosin%20nagants/Chinese-T53Carbine.asp (General)
7.62x54r.net/ (Markings, etc.)
7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinM44EEC.htm (Chinese Type 53)
I had intended to give two to son-in-law's but am rethinking that. It seems that one of them is a 1953 "test/trial" model as denoted by the letter "A" in the serial number followed by the Chinese character "shi". It's a factory "296" edition and doesn't have the 3 or 4 Chinese character lettering like the other two. The other two are both factory "26" editions built in 1955 and 1956. The 1956 Nagant has a different stock than the other two as well. It lacks the metal and inletting for the strap hole and is missing the dimples on the wood just aft of the rear barrel band. I'm keeping all 3.
For $35 apiece I'm real happy.
The rifles are everything I expected, which was beat up but serviceable. They were very dirty but with less rust than I'd imagined. There was just a coating of dry, dusty "crud" on them. Almost no cosmoline on mine except for the bolts which were packaged separately. The bayonets were packed separately too.
I am expecting that with some steel wool for the steel, fine sandpaper for the stock and a solvent they are going to clean up quite nicely.
I did some research on the net and came up a few useful links about the Chinese Type 53. www.mosinnagant.net/global%20mosin%20nagants/Chinese-T53Carbine.asp (General)
7.62x54r.net/ (Markings, etc.)
7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinM44EEC.htm (Chinese Type 53)
I had intended to give two to son-in-law's but am rethinking that. It seems that one of them is a 1953 "test/trial" model as denoted by the letter "A" in the serial number followed by the Chinese character "shi". It's a factory "296" edition and doesn't have the 3 or 4 Chinese character lettering like the other two. The other two are both factory "26" editions built in 1955 and 1956. The 1956 Nagant has a different stock than the other two as well. It lacks the metal and inletting for the strap hole and is missing the dimples on the wood just aft of the rear barrel band. I'm keeping all 3.
For $35 apiece I'm real happy.
Solid Snake
Member
Got my three
I got my three t53's. Like everyone else is saying - they're super dirty, but aside from realistic amounts of scrapes and dings - they're in good shape. There are some random spots of rust, but I think they'll clean up just fine. I cleaned two of them so that they were shootable and went to the range.
They are loud. They definitely make a nice concussion wave, which was new to me. They may kick, but I was focusing on the overall effect, so compared to shooting 12ga slugs, these weren't bad at all. I was just wearing a t-shirt so I used another one to put between the metal butt plate and my shoulder.
The most amazing part of shooting them was when I decided to take a shot at the longest available distance. I think it's ~300 yards, whatever distance it was, it was a long stinking ways out there. Notched the rear site to "3" and took the shot. A split second later there goes a poof of dust from that target range - right on. This is my first non-22 or shotgun, so these long distance shots are new to me.
Note to other new owners. I used 'cleen bore' or some spray solvent like that and it removed the cosmo nicely on one. The other I had already scrubbed as best as I could using various techniques before buying the solvent. The gun that I sprayed down started off ejecting easily half the time, difficult the other half and eventually ran just fine. The one that I evidentally hadn't cleaned well enough shot the first round and that was it. I had to take it home and WORK that sucker out. So, moral of the story is... CLEAN those suckers good - those nooks and crannies must have surprisingly tight clearances.
I got my three t53's. Like everyone else is saying - they're super dirty, but aside from realistic amounts of scrapes and dings - they're in good shape. There are some random spots of rust, but I think they'll clean up just fine. I cleaned two of them so that they were shootable and went to the range.
They are loud. They definitely make a nice concussion wave, which was new to me. They may kick, but I was focusing on the overall effect, so compared to shooting 12ga slugs, these weren't bad at all. I was just wearing a t-shirt so I used another one to put between the metal butt plate and my shoulder.
The most amazing part of shooting them was when I decided to take a shot at the longest available distance. I think it's ~300 yards, whatever distance it was, it was a long stinking ways out there. Notched the rear site to "3" and took the shot. A split second later there goes a poof of dust from that target range - right on. This is my first non-22 or shotgun, so these long distance shots are new to me.
Note to other new owners. I used 'cleen bore' or some spray solvent like that and it removed the cosmo nicely on one. The other I had already scrubbed as best as I could using various techniques before buying the solvent. The gun that I sprayed down started off ejecting easily half the time, difficult the other half and eventually ran just fine. The one that I evidentally hadn't cleaned well enough shot the first round and that was it. I had to take it home and WORK that sucker out. So, moral of the story is... CLEAN those suckers good - those nooks and crannies must have surprisingly tight clearances.
aaronrkelly
Member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2005
- Messages
- 1,087
Got mine today, its about what I expected.
The stock on mine is dirty.....there is one crack on the thin part of the forend. I did a quicky repair job by spread the crack and dribbling some super glue in it - problem solved.
It has alot of dings, gashes.....generally beat to heck appearance.
The metal wasnt as bad as I was expecting. Mine has considerable bluing left with just patches of speckly, rough rust. Not of the rust was in any important parts so I just left it there.....just keeping it real.
All the numbers matched on mine EXCEPT the bolt. The bolt has a different serial.....which kinda sucks. I would have rather had the bolt match the rifle but hey, whatcha gonna do.
I tried for about 10 minutes to get the cleaning rod to screw in.....just couldnt get anywhere. Then I took my flashlight and shined it down there......the very end of a cleaning rod appears to be broke off inside the lug, just enough that I cant pull the lug out from the inside of the stock.
Whats a guy to do.....
bubba it Chinese style......
Went down to the local parts store for some materials. I wanted it to be original so I was looking for Chinese made 1/4" vacuum line.....the counter jockey looked at me odd.
Anyways, slipped a bit of hose over the cleaning rod and slide it up toward the muzzle......it keeps the rod in enough of a bind up against the forend that I can almost pick the rifle up with the cleaning rod and it wont come out.
Here she is in all her beauty.......
Appears to cycle and function fine, I didnt shoot it and probably wont. How can you beat $35 for a working gun......issues aside.
The stock on mine is dirty.....there is one crack on the thin part of the forend. I did a quicky repair job by spread the crack and dribbling some super glue in it - problem solved.
It has alot of dings, gashes.....generally beat to heck appearance.
The metal wasnt as bad as I was expecting. Mine has considerable bluing left with just patches of speckly, rough rust. Not of the rust was in any important parts so I just left it there.....just keeping it real.
All the numbers matched on mine EXCEPT the bolt. The bolt has a different serial.....which kinda sucks. I would have rather had the bolt match the rifle but hey, whatcha gonna do.
I tried for about 10 minutes to get the cleaning rod to screw in.....just couldnt get anywhere. Then I took my flashlight and shined it down there......the very end of a cleaning rod appears to be broke off inside the lug, just enough that I cant pull the lug out from the inside of the stock.
Whats a guy to do.....
bubba it Chinese style......
Went down to the local parts store for some materials. I wanted it to be original so I was looking for Chinese made 1/4" vacuum line.....the counter jockey looked at me odd.
Anyways, slipped a bit of hose over the cleaning rod and slide it up toward the muzzle......it keeps the rod in enough of a bind up against the forend that I can almost pick the rifle up with the cleaning rod and it wont come out.
Here she is in all her beauty.......
Appears to cycle and function fine, I didnt shoot it and probably wont. How can you beat $35 for a working gun......issues aside.
jimbob1911
Member
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 118
Anyone have a problem with their tracking number from omega?
Mine says the shipment isnt in the system but don says he shipped them out last Thursday.
Mine says the shipment isnt in the system but don says he shipped them out last Thursday.
Last edited:
offthepaper
Member
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
- Messages
- 1,446
-----------------------------------------------
It might not be a problem. When Don shipped mine a few weeks ago, it was regestered for it's arrival at the FedEx facilaty (Phoenix, I believe) and they did'nt have another record of it until it was on the truck in my town for delivery. They had the package in limbo for a week, but it finally did arrive. Mine was pretty much what everyone else has recieved, very dirty, small cracks in the stock (fixable) worn metal, mismatched #'s, but with less rust and pitting than I was expecting. I'm very happy with the purchase as I am starting a modest Mosin collection (limited $) and this really makes a great addition. I cleaned the bore and it certainly seems decent enough to be a semi-respectable shooter. Hey, like has been stated in this thread repeatedly, and rightly so, for $35, how can you go wrong. Not the prettiest MN you're going to see, but one of the more unique ones (thanks to Bill), at least I had'nt seen or heard of many Chinese MN's circulating much recently.
As far as the tracking # goes, be patient and let FedEx do their thing and stock up on cleaning supplies.
Hoppy
I had spider eggs inside the bore of mine as well, along with a small peice of a rock/stone trapped in the spring in the triggerguard. I've held on to it. Might be as close to China as I'll ever get.
Harry Paget Flashman
Member
I am having a lot of fun researching these Chinese Nagants. At this site, http://7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinStocks.htm , looking at chart #10 it appears that I may have a Russian M44 stock on one of mine since it lacks the barrel band finger grooves and sling slot escutcheons. There is a wealth of information out there about Nagants but what stands out most in my recent readings was a statement to the effect..."No matter how much you want to collect all the Nagant variants, you'll never be able to."
Well, I'm trying. I went back to the store to look at a 91/30 my dealer had on the rack. I'd noticed from a distance how good looking it was. Turns out it's a common 91/30, an Izhevsk built in 1938 with so many proof marks and cartouches to explore that I bought it. It didn't hurt that it's the cleanest, least dinged and well blued MN I have ever seen. And, no cosmoline.
I have 7 MN's now.
Well, I'm trying. I went back to the store to look at a 91/30 my dealer had on the rack. I'd noticed from a distance how good looking it was. Turns out it's a common 91/30, an Izhevsk built in 1938 with so many proof marks and cartouches to explore that I bought it. It didn't hurt that it's the cleanest, least dinged and well blued MN I have ever seen. And, no cosmoline.
I have 7 MN's now.
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