Warning: Montana Extreme Bore Solvent & coated rods

[edwardware]

Having seen some glowing recommendations for Montana Extreme's bore solvent, I ordered a bottle. Last evening I went to clean my .223 bolt gun, and while wiping the rod, a KleenBore Saf-T-Clad one-piece, after the second wet patch, I found the red coating soft and sticky! The ~30 seconds of exposure (first patch, then second patch) to the bore solvent softened the coating to the point that it's wiping off onto a paper towel.

It still hasn't rehardened all the way, and I suspect it won't since epoxy doesn't usually reharden after a solvent attack. I haven't heard back from Montana Extreme yet. . .

So you're warned. Might do to test a bit of solvent on your rod before you get to work pushing patches through. . .

 

[Devonai]

Did you read the bottle? There may be a disclaimer about plastics on there.

In any case, I wouldn't blame the solvent. Just use all-metal rods unless you're really concerned about scraping up the rifling/crown.

 

[edwardware]

Yup. Read the bottle and Montana's FAQs before buying. No mention of any issues.

Given that the solvent ruined the rod, I think I'll blame the solvent. If I wasn't concerned about damaging the rifling, I'd be cleaning from the muzzle with a bare rod.

 

[The Bushmaster]

I knew there was a reason I use brass rods...

 

[Devonai]

It's your rifle, and I certainly appreciate your desire to be as careful as possible with the barrel. Hopefully you can find a rod/solvent combo that works for you.

 

[edwardware]

Devonai:

Just use all-metal rods unless you're really concerned about scraping up the rifling/crown.

edwardware:

If I wasn't concerned about damaging the rifling, I'd be cleaning from the muzzle with a bare rod.

Reading my reply again, it sounds really snarky; sorry, I didn't mean it that way.

I'm not convinced that a bore guide and patch consistently keep the rod from touching the bore, so I prefer an epoxy rod to a metal one.

 

[maxxhavoc]

Thanks for the heads up. A solvent that attacks a rod designed to hold up to solvents may attack wood finishes and poly stocks. I'll put it in the "test on a hidden area" category.

 

[CLP]

I knew there was a reason I use brass rods...

Those ammoniated solvents attack brass too- at least they do my jags, which is why they make aluminum ones.

However, I haven't had any problems with Butch's attacking my Dewey coated rods, but Montana Extreme may be a more concentrated solution.

 

[The Bushmaster]

CLP...I've been using the same brass rods and jags for the last 15 years. I see no loss of brass on any of them. Nor do I see any verdigris forming on them either. I DO tend to wipe them down before I put them away after cleaning. I use Hoppe's Benchrest copper solvent, by the way.

 

[CLP]

I don't think Hoppes is as ammoniated either. Try wetting a brass jag with one of those super-ammoniated copper fouling cleaners and let sit. It'll react.

 

[rcmodel]

If I wasn't concerned about damaging the rifling, I'd be cleaning from the muzzle with a bare rod.

Coated rods have the potentional to hold more abrasive grit and grime then uncoated rods.

That's why I have used 1-piece polished stainless steel rods for about 40 years.

They are too slick and clean to damage a bore if you wipe them off once & a while.

rc

 

[Panzerschwein]

+1

No fancy coated steel, just quality brass.

 

[The Bushmaster]

CLP...Have you put your nose in a container of Hoppe's Benchrest copper solvent lately? Take a whiff. It will burn the hairs out of your nose. Plenty of ammonia in there.

None the less...Brass or stainless make the best rods.

 

[edwardware]

Update: I've heard back from both Rob Behr at Montana X-Treme (Western Powders) and from CS at Kleen Bore (Safariland). It seems likely it was the rod!

Rob Behr:

Ed,
This is not a known problem. We use epoxy coatings on our rods as well. Prolonged exposure, overnight for example, would soften the coating, but not the excess solvent from a simple cleaning session. I’m sorry this happened, but you are the first to report anything like this to me.

Safariland (Kleen Bore):

Ed,
About 2 years ago we did have a batch that came through with an issue to the coating. You may have gotten one from that batch. I do apologize.
(. . .)

Safariland is sending a new rod, which I will test when it arrives. I've used a variety of ammoniated solvents with this (apparently defective) rod, but I guess I stayed lucky until this last round.

 

[stchman]

Never understood using all the fancy solvent and stuff. I just use Hoppe's #9 and my segmented brass rod. Hoppe's #9 will remove copper fouling if left to soak overnight, and brass is WAY softer than the barrel. I've been doing the above combination for years with no problems.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Never understood using all the fancy solvent and stuff. I just use Hoppe's #9 and my segmented brass rod. Hoppe's #9 will remove copper fouling if left to soak overnight, and brass is WAY softer than the barrel. I've been doing the above combination for years with no problems.

I do the same. These fancy, coated rods and fancy solvents are all "much to do about nothing" and "angels dancing on the heads of pins" and whatnot methinks.

 

[edwardware]

And one last update:

I received the new rod from Safariland, and tried a bit of Montana X-Treme solvent. It softened the coating, just like before.

In conclusion, it appears the X-Treme solvent is not compatible with the coating. . .