Well, I did it... I waxed my pistol.

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BHPshooter

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I picked up my FEG today, and at the edge of the grips, I saw --

RUST!!! :uhoh:

So, I did a full wiping down ro remove the rust, applying oil liberally. Then, after it sat for a while, I waxed it just like I'd wax a car. I guess we'll see how it turns out. :confused: I was lucky to catch it early, though -- there wasn't even any pitting.

What really gets me stumped is wondering how the rust formed in the first place. I wipe down my guns every night, whether I've handled them or not, with a silicone gun cloth. Apparently that's not enough for the blued FEG, but the epoxy-finish Browning is still just fine. :confused:

I'll let you all know how it turns out.

Wes
 
Waxed? :scrutiny: I've not heard of anyone waxing their firearm...what kind did you use? Did you just wax the external frame & slide? How did you wipe/buff off the excess?
 
I have used rennesance (sp) wax and good old Johnson's paste wax. Rub some on and into the finish with a piece of old T shirt and then just buff it in, the thinner the coat the better.
 
Waxing the pistol's exterior was probably a good idea, but if you waxed over a coat of oil I'm not sure the wax will work like it should.

The choice of which wax is important too. Be sure what you have has something called "carnauba" in it.

Wax is especailly good on polished blue and plated surfaces. Less so on matt finishes because it's harder to rub out - but it will still work. Wax also won't hurt wood or plastic surfaces like some oils will.

And if you haven't done so, remove the grips and wax the metal underneath them.

Also be sure that there aren't any rust pits left. Once it gets established it will keep going.
 
Let me clarify. :D

I oiled it up with very thin oil, wiped the excess off, and laid it where the sun and air could get to it and waited for whatever was left to either evaporate or to go wherever it is that oil goes. After it was dry to the touch, I used pure carnauba wax (just like for your car) on a rag to give it a nice thin coat. Wait a few minutes for it to harden (just like on your car), and buff it off.

I think it worked, because it feels different to the touch and still smells like car wax.

As before, updates will follow. ;)

Wes
 
Don't most of these waxes have mild abrasives in them? Wouldn't that be harmful to the blueing?

Steve
 
Actually, Steve, if you use a modern paste wax, there should be no abrasives.

Abrasives USED to be in waxes, but that was in the good ol' days, before clearcoats.

Cheers,
Wes
 
I oiled it up with very thin oil, wiped the excess off, and laid it where the sun and air could get to it and waited for whatever was left to either evaporate or to go wherever it is that oil goes.

The oil doesn't go anywhere. A microscopically thin film of it remains on the metal, which is why we oil guns. Whether it will weaken the wax remains to be seen.
 
I collect nickel Smiths and use Flitz on all of them. Have used car wax on my shotguns also.
 
Wax is great for blued & shiny guns. Great protectant too.

Think about the millions and millions of cars that sit out in the sun, rain & snow year after year and still shine because of that thin coat of wax on them. They get more abused than the majority of guns.
 
Due to inherent laziness I have yet to complete some waxing again .. but it is IMO a good protection for external surfaces.

It has been said - correctly ..... even a miniscule film of oil remaining will impair the wax adhesion... probably best to rub over these parts first with some alcohol and then apply wax before getting skin grease (or even sweat - horrors!) on the finish. Then the applied film should be quite durable.

Fumegator ....... ''edge of grips'' ... know what? That is one area to watch real careful ....... seems as tho a small amount of sweat can creep into that small space and stay .. even if you'd think your wipe down with the cloth was good. I have learned that after a range session (and carry particularly) ... good to remove grips and ensure the wipe get under grips too. My ole blued snub has suffered a bit just a fraction above grips, near cyl release ..... that from body sweat creeping unbeknownst to me.:(
 
Don't most of these waxes have mild abrasives in them?
Polish has abrasives, wax should not.

Be careful to use wax and not polish. It's not always apparent. Read the labels carefully. A clue is when it says "safe for clearcoat" it should contains no abrasives.

This applies to your car also. When I was a teenager, I literally polished the paint off my first car because I didn't know the difference.
 
Wax

I've been using car wax for years and have had good luck with it. About a year ago, I switched to RENAISSANCE Microcrystalline WAX POLISH after reading about it in the Rifleman. It works very well on blued & SS guns.

Of course, the first cylinder full gives off a little smoke.

Check this site:

www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html

John
 
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Whenever I set up any of my guns for long term storage, i always blast it with a liberal dose of Boeshield T-9 which is essentially a lubricant/wax in a solvent carrier. When the solvent dries, a thin film of wax is left for protection. Do this religiously now after a relatively new 1187 rusted on the side of the receiver about a couple of years ago.

http://www.boeshield.com/

t912.jpg
 
Spray-on wax. Kewl! :cool: Remember to give us a range report, Chris. :)

I haven't carried a blued gun since I discovered wax, but it works great on my Dillon press.
 
I've been meaning to try out a can of Eezox but am still using up my Boeshield (8 years now).
 
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