You know, I do have a mold. I just never considered it was for this gun. I'll get it out and check. Thanks for the memory jog!If it's truly hexagonal, you might want to determine twist rate first (tight patch, scotch tape, and count the turns as you pull the cleaning rod). Quite probable you're going to then be looking at shooting a very fast- twist hexagonal bullet in that regard -- a bit problematic in 35 caliber.
You sure you don't have that rifle's matching mould in an attic junk box somewhere?
I found the mold! Does it look close?If it's truly hexagonal, you might want to determine twist rate first (tight patch, scotch tape, and count the turns as you pull the cleaning rod). Quite probable you're going to then be looking at shooting a very fast- twist hexagonal bullet in that regard -- a bit problematic in 35 caliber.
You sure you don't have that rifle's matching mould in an attic junk box somewhere?
failing that, try a .320 ball will some thicker 0.020" 100% cotton ticking from Joanne's for spit patch.... or a more expensive .330 ball
Jeeez Louise... What a dumb question (that I didn't ask it first)[B said:ayettwer[/B]]You mean that the outside of the barrel is octagonal
(8 sided) not that the bore is hexagonal(6 sided)?
Story my grandfather told me and confirmed by an appraiser at a LGS.Looks like an original percussion gun to me. What makes you think it used to be flint?
Here you go:I can't blow the picture up enough to see any pan or frizzen attachment points or other details.
A close clear picture of the lock would be interesting.
I beg leave to wonder about the qualifications of an appraiser at the local gun shop.
Don't feel bad, I have seen many references to "hex" barrels on the internet.
Seven groove rifling of an old style.
I am not versed in how to get the right ball and patch sizes starting from scratch.
Thanks for the info. My Grandfather died in 1988. I am 60 now, so I would like to consolidate good information on this gun for my kids.The cylindrical drum (the round part that the nipple is screwed into) -- that is itself screwed into the barrel where the flintlock vent hole has been drilled out so the bolster/conversion can be screwed in -- lends credence to a converted flintlock.
Any idea of the age of this?Looks like lock was percussion from the start. Small for a flinter, looks like the plate was cut for the drum and no place where pan would have been. I have an original Leman percussion that could be your guy's first cousin. Stock is later percussion squirrel rifle style. I can be, and often am, wrong. Barrel is a very typical seven narrow groove style to be used with a round ball and heave ticking patch. Mine is nominally 38 cal and i use a .355 ball with mattress ticking.
My totally uneducated guess would be after 1850. My grand dad was shooting squirrels, rabbits and other things with one like it after 1900. You used what you had. His description on loading the percussion 10 gauge was a hoot.Any idea of the age of this?
Ok, I knew about the octagon barrels. But I never heard of counting the "sides" inside a barrel. Is this just on antiques or all BP guns?You mean that the outside of the barrel is octagonal (8 sided) not that the bore is hexagonal(6 sided)?
PapaG,fill us in on that description. I know I am not the only one who would love to hear it!My totally uneducated guess would be after 1850. My grand dad was shooting squirrels, rabbits and other things with one like it after 1900. You used what you had. His description on loading the percussion 10 gauge was a hoot.