What caliber ball in old hexagonal* barrel rifle? * Edit:Octagonal with seven sided twist-Pictures

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stageman

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17854773_10212300231477750_3230222069653118177_o.jpg This has been in my family for well over a hundred years. It appears that it used to be a flint lock that was converted to percussion. The set and trigger work as intended. The barrel ( iron hexagonal) is clear and my micrometer measures .35. What size patched ball would that translate to?
 
If it's truly hexagonal, you might want to determine twist rate first (tight patch, scotch tape, and count the turns as you pull the cleaning rod). Quite probable you're going to then be looking at shooting a very fast- twist hexagonal bullet in that regard -- a bit problematic in 35 caliber.

You sure you don't have that rifle's matching mould in an attic junk box somewhere?





failing that, try a .320 ball will some thicker 0.020" 100% cotton ticking from Joanne's for spit patch.... or a more expensive .330 ball
 
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If it's truly hexagonal, you might want to determine twist rate first (tight patch, scotch tape, and count the turns as you pull the cleaning rod). Quite probable you're going to then be looking at shooting a very fast- twist hexagonal bullet in that regard -- a bit problematic in 35 caliber.

You sure you don't have that rifle's matching mould in an attic junk box somewhere?
You know, I do have a mold. I just never considered it was for this gun. I'll get it out and check. Thanks for the memory jog!
 
If it's truly hexagonal, you might want to determine twist rate first (tight patch, scotch tape, and count the turns as you pull the cleaning rod). Quite probable you're going to then be looking at shooting a very fast- twist hexagonal bullet in that regard -- a bit problematic in 35 caliber.

You sure you don't have that rifle's matching mould in an attic junk box somewhere?





failing that, try a .320 ball will some thicker 0.020" 100% cotton ticking from Joanne's for spit patch.... or a more expensive .330 ball
2018-04-22 08.06.59.jpg I found the mold! Does it look close?
 
Well, the mould is a bit toasted... but it might indicate trying a .315" Hornady roundball with various ticking thickness patches.
I wouldn't buy commercial patches -- pig in a poke. Just go down to a fabric store w/ your calipers and buy a yard each of 0.012 twill,and 0.020 ticking. . Cut into 1-1/4" wide strips/dampen in mouth, lay ball on top at muzzle, smack flush w/ mallet/piece of wood, cut flush and ram home on starting load of 20-40 grains/3Fg.

DON'T DO THIS UNTIL SOMEONE ELSE/EXPERIENCED BP SHOOTER HAS EXAMINED BREECH & BOLSTER. (Also see if nipple can be removed with a well-fitting nipple wrench. Check thread conditions there too.)
(even then... take the first several shots from inside an old tire/long string and look for gas leakage at bolster threads.)

Take care..
(and clean that sucker well w/ soap & water/left well-oiled afterwards fer sure);)
 
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You mean that the outside of the barrel is octagonal (8 sided) not that the bore is hexagonal(6 sided)?
 
[B said:
ayettwer[/B]]You mean that the outside of the barrel is octagonal
(8 sided) not that the bore is hexagonal(6 sided)?
Jeeez Louise... What a dumb question (that I didn't ask it first)
That would make it a likely 32-36?cal classic squirrel rifle.
 
I can't blow the picture up enough to see any pan or frizzen attachment points or other details.
A close clear picture of the lock would be interesting.
I beg leave to wonder about the qualifications of an appraiser at the local gun shop.

Don't feel bad, I have seen many references to "hex" barrels on the internet.

Seven groove rifling of an old style.
I am not versed in how to get the right ball and patch sizes starting from scratch.
 
I can't blow the picture up enough to see any pan or frizzen attachment points or other details.
A close clear picture of the lock would be interesting.
I beg leave to wonder about the qualifications of an appraiser at the local gun shop.

Don't feel bad, I have seen many references to "hex" barrels on the internet.

Seven groove rifling of an old style.
I am not versed in how to get the right ball and patch sizes starting from scratch.
Here you go:
2018-04-22 12.52.37.jpg 2018-04-22 12.53.25.jpg 2018-04-22 12.53.39.jpg
 
Way too cool! Hope you find that’s its still in fireable shape!

I wonder if #2 buckshot (.270”) can be made to work with a thick patch. With those grooves I’d think it could be done nicely.

And if the bore can be accurately measured you can get a custom design made by Accurate Molds. Maybe you could even send him the mold to see if he can duplicate the design.
 
The cylindrical drum (the round part that the nipple is screwed into) -- that is itself screwed into the barrel where the flintlock vent hole has been drilled out so the bolster/conversion can be screwed in -- lends credence to a converted flintlock.
 
The cylindrical drum (the round part that the nipple is screwed into) -- that is itself screwed into the barrel where the flintlock vent hole has been drilled out so the bolster/conversion can be screwed in -- lends credence to a converted flintlock.
Thanks for the info. My Grandfather died in 1988. I am 60 now, so I would like to consolidate good information on this gun for my kids.
 
The stock would have been cut down to a half-stock style as well most likely. Half-stock flintlocks just weren't much of a thing in this country minus a couple military rifles.

I suggest you get the entire gun thoroughly checked out before shooting to avoid any damage.
 
Drums were commonly used on inexpensive new make percussion rifles, too. Bolsters and patent breeches were relatively expensive, seen on the high end stuff like Hawkens.
I don't see anything on the lockplate where a pan or frizzen was removed.
 
Looks like lock was percussion from the start. Small for a flinter, looks like the plate was cut for the drum and no place where pan would have been. I have an original Leman percussion that could be your guy's first cousin. Stock is later percussion squirrel rifle style. I can be, and often am, wrong. Barrel is a very typical seven narrow groove style to be used with a round ball and heave ticking patch. Mine is nominally 38 cal and i use a .355 ball with mattress ticking.
 
Looks like lock was percussion from the start. Small for a flinter, looks like the plate was cut for the drum and no place where pan would have been. I have an original Leman percussion that could be your guy's first cousin. Stock is later percussion squirrel rifle style. I can be, and often am, wrong. Barrel is a very typical seven narrow groove style to be used with a round ball and heave ticking patch. Mine is nominally 38 cal and i use a .355 ball with mattress ticking.
Any idea of the age of this?
 
You mean that the outside of the barrel is octagonal (8 sided) not that the bore is hexagonal(6 sided)?
Ok, I knew about the octagon barrels. But I never heard of counting the "sides" inside a barrel. Is this just on antiques or all BP guns?
 
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My totally uneducated guess would be after 1850. My grand dad was shooting squirrels, rabbits and other things with one like it after 1900. You used what you had. His description on loading the percussion 10 gauge was a hoot.
PapaG,fill us in on that description. I know I am not the only one who would love to hear it!
 
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