What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?

[Tilos]

I had trouble reading the text on my Lee powder hopper so I traced the raised letters with a black sharpie. It is much easier to read now without squinting.
View attachment 1097271

The auto-disc measure doesn't have those cast-in markings so I used a Silver Sharpee to make my own:

It is cast on the top of the black housing, you can see the reflection in the pic, but it's hard to see, even when colored sliver.

.

 

[Riomouse911]

The auto-disc measure doesn't have those cast-in markings so I used a Silver Sharpee to make my own:
View attachment 1097448
It is cast on the top of the black housing, you can see the reflection in the pic, but it's hard to see, even when colored sliver.

.

I do the same with my Lee measures. The little molded in markings are almost impossible to see.

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Readin...=1660972934&sprefix=desk+lamp+,aps,242&sr=8-3



I found these LED clip on lamps on Amazon for not too much $$. I put one right over two of my presses. The flexible stand makes putting it where I need it easy and the extra light makes seeing in the cases checking powder levels, etc. a piece of cake.

Stay safe.

 

[Tilos]

I do the same with my Lee measures. The little molded in markings are almost impossible to see.

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Reading-48-Brightness-Protection/dp/B08T24FJC9/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=21D9BOM2GGPZP&keywords=desk+lamp+with+clamp&qid=1660972934&sprefix=desk+lamp+,aps,242&sr=8-3

View attachment 1097471

I found these LED clip on lamps on Amazon for not too much $$. I put one right over two of my presses. The flexible stand makes putting it where I need it easy and the extra light makes seeing in the cases checking powder levels, etc. a piece of cake.

Stay safe.

Nice Light
I use these lights: mag base, LED, called sewing machine light on Amazon.
I use these as task lights, all over my garage/loading bench, instead of overhead operating room bright lighting.


Amazon.com: EVISWIY Sewing Machine Light LED Lighting (30LEDs) 6 Watt Multifunctional Flexible Gooseneck Arm Work Lamp with Magnetic Mounting Base for Workbench Lathe Drill Press 2 Pack : Arts, Crafts & Sewing

.

 

[Smaug]

I don't know if this counts as a clever trick, but here it is:

With simple and low budget reloading gear, I can load ammo on my couch while watching TV. Initially, you might think: "Whoa, that doesn't sound safe!" But since it's single stage and I'm checking my results between each stage, it works out swimmingly.

Here's the gear:

1. Lee Hand Press breech lock version now available, but mine's the old thread-in type. I size and decap pistol brass with this and put the cases in the loading tray, bullet end down, so I can see they're decapped and with dirty primer pockets.
2. Lee primer pocket cleaner. I use it by hand, as it doesn't take much and I don't want to drill it deeper or anything. If you were gentle, you COULD chuck this in a small cordless screwdriver. As I clean the primer pockets, I put them into the next tray bullet end up.
3. Lee Hand Prime tool. This is my favorite way to prime so far. I get a good touch with it.
4. Expander die to slightly bell the case mouths; move to the other tray, still mouth end open
5. Powder funnel + dippers. Lee makes a dipper set. They're marginal for pistol calibers, as they don't have a lot of in-between sizes, but a member here pointed out to me that I could file down 9 mm cases to get the sizes I need. For example, loading 38 Spl yesterday, I found the 0.3 cc was too small and the 0.5 cc is too big. I can make a 0.4 cc myself. It'll be the perfect size for a 38 Spl load of Win 231.
6. Lee's Safety Powder Scale is inexpensive and good to check the dippers. The Lee dippers throw less than they're reported to if you strike them level like you're supposed to, so it's worth checking them.
7. Seat bullets with the seating die in the Lee Hand Press; crimp as appropriate for your round. I like a roll crimp for revolver loads and a "factory crimp" for auto pistol loads.

Because you're watching TV, (once you know what you're doing) it doesn't matter that it takes forever, because you're watching the game.

Bonus tip: This mentality also works with flossing your teeth. But not while reloading; that's for a different night. I tend to not floss as often as I should, but if I leave the floss and flosser on the end table by where I watch TV, I don't care that it takes time and I do it.

PS - I'm not affiliated with Lee. I started with RCBS and found their stuff not to be a good value, where Lee is.

 

[PWC]

I don't know if this counts as a clever trick, but here it is:
With simple and low budget reloading gear, I can load ammo on my couch while watching TV. Initially, you might think: "Whoa, that doesn't sound safe!" But since it's single stage and I'm checking my results between each stage, it works out swimmingly.

Because you're watching TV, (once you know what you're doing) it doesn't matter that it takes forever, because you're watching the game.

Mmmmmm......Be careful; sounds like an accident waiting to happen due to distractions. Loading complete rounds isn't the same as priming brass while watching TV.

 

[Skgreen]

Version 2.0:

 

[PWC]

Skgreen......Ok, I give...what is it?

 

[barnfrog]

Skgreen......Ok, I give...what is it?

Glad I'm not the only one to whom it's not immediately obvious. A way to load something into a tube, I think.

 

[Skgreen]

Kind of a niche item, I suppose. Prototype was revealed in post 1713.

"Tube" - https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-4006512-P-Lock-N-Load-Bullet-Tube/dp/B00XRFUG3G

After years of 'manually manipulated' tube loading, I wanted something that required less dexterity.

Flop some bullets in the ~tray~, slide 'em in the tube. Too easy. (Kinda fun, too! )

 

[ev780]

I don't use dryer sheets in the laundry room thus no supply for the reloading room. I use these instead. My media stays pretty clean.

 

[Skgreen]

(Kinda fun, too! )

Your mileage WILL vary,,,

Below are some screen grabs of Version 2.0 in use:

 

[Skgreen]

The sleeve that comes on a tray of primers can be used to write down load/date when bulk loading.

Not really ~clever~ or life-changing, but it's free and beats the 'piece of paper' method.

I cut the 'face panel' out. Primer type shown on front, load info written on back.



Store it along with the finished product:

 

[HEAVY METAL 1]

Originally I mounted my powder thrower on my bench top inside of an inverted cottage cheeze container lid to corral spilled powder granuals. It was effective, but getting the granuals out of that was a PITA unless vaccumed out. I changed things up. I drilled a hole in the bench for a powder sump. I glued a vitamine bottle lid with the top cut out to the underside of my bench. Now I can sweep spilled powder into the hole where it collects in the bottle below. Unscrew the bottle, toss the granuals in the trash or the grass.

 

[gwpercle]

I don't know if this counts as a clever trick, but here it is:

With simple and low budget reloading gear, I can load ammo on my couch while watching TV. Initially, you might think: "Whoa, that doesn't sound safe!" But since it's single stage and I'm checking my results between each stage, it works out swimmingly.

Here's the gear:

1. Lee Hand Press breech lock version now available, but mine's the old thread-in type. I size and decap pistol brass with this and put the cases in the loading tray, bullet end down, so I can see they're decapped and with dirty primer pockets.
2. Lee primer pocket cleaner. I use it by hand, as it doesn't take much and I don't want to drill it deeper or anything. If you were gentle, you COULD chuck this in a small cordless screwdriver. As I clean the primer pockets, I put them into the next tray bullet end up.
3. Lee Hand Prime tool. This is my favorite way to prime so far. I get a good touch with it.
4. Expander die to slightly bell the case mouths; move to the other tray, still mouth end open
5. Powder funnel + dippers. Lee makes a dipper set. They're marginal for pistol calibers, as they don't have a lot of in-between sizes, but a member here pointed out to me that I could file down 9 mm cases to get the sizes I need. For example, loading 38 Spl yesterday, I found the 0.3 cc was too small and the 0.5 cc is too big. I can make a 0.4 cc myself. It'll be the perfect size for a 38 Spl load of Win 231.
6. Lee's Safety Powder Scale is inexpensive and good to check the dippers. The Lee dippers throw less than they're reported to if you strike them level like you're supposed to, so it's worth checking them.
7. Seat bullets with the seating die in the Lee Hand Press; crimp as appropriate for your round. I like a roll crimp for revolver loads and a "factory crimp" for auto pistol loads.

Because you're watching TV, (once you know what you're doing) it doesn't matter that it takes forever, because you're watching the game.

Bonus tip: This mentality also works with flossing your teeth. But not while reloading; that's for a different night. I tend to not floss as often as I should, but if I leave the floss and flosser on the end table by where I watch TV, I don't care that it takes time and I do it.

PS - I'm not affiliated with Lee. I started with RCBS and found their stuff not to be a good value, where Lee is.

You ain't just whistling Dixie !!!
The Lee Hand Press is one of Lee's best products and few people know about it or use it .
with a Lee Ram Prime it's the best hand priming tool you will ever buy .
I take my Lee Hand Press and reload ammo sitting at my desk at work , on my drafting table , at home on computer desk , coffee table , kithen table ... do a lot of priming and brass sizing and brass prep sitting in my easy chair or on my bed .
More people need to look at and think about what can be done with a hand press ... these are So Handy ... I have Two and use both .
Gary

 

[BillKilgore]

I needed a funnel to load individual 30-06 brass. I cut down a cheap plastic margarita glass. I carefully drilled a hole in the bottom that just fits over the mouth of the case. It works great, stays attached to the case and the clear plastic is a bonus.

 

[berettaprofessor]

Easy and effective Lee turret holders made from widemouth jar plastic lids. Pictures show the method. The holes are drilled with a 7/8 spade bit. You can get the lids at Walmart or out of your cabinet if the wife isn't watching.
View attachment 1097408 View attachment 1097409 View attachment 1097410 View attachment 1097411 View attachment 1097412 View attachment 1097414 View attachment 1097415 View attachment 1097416

Much easier to cut 2.5-3" long sections of 3" diameter PVC pipe.

 

[drband]

Much easier to cut 2.5-3" long sections of 3" diameter PVC pipe.

^^^Agree^^^

 

[pert near]

I found these "T" nuts at the local hardware store. They are about a $1 a piece. When I re-surfaced my loading bench top I flush-mounted 1 about every 18" (btw; my bench is 10' long). I cut some metal plates & drilled & taps some holes to mount my powder measure stand & my bench primer.

Unlike you reloaders, my bench gets messy some times. If I want to just prime some cases I can always find a "clear" spot now!

 

[mdi]

I used the "tooth" type on the underside of my bench. May not look as "clean" as the exposed t-nuts, but has worked quite well for small vises, bench grinders, work hold-downs as well as as my reloading bench tools... https://www.mcmaster.com/tee-nuts/

 

[Tilos]

I found these "T" nuts at the local hardware store. They are about a $1 a piece. When I re-surfaced my loading bench top I flush-mounted 1 about every 18" (btw; my bench is 10' long). I cut some metal plates & drilled & taps some holes to mount my powder measure stand & my bench primer.
Unlike you reloaders, my bench gets messy some times. If I want to just prime some cases I can always find a "clear" spot now!
View attachment 1133809 View attachment 1133810 View attachment 1133811 View attachment 1133812

I use a lot of T-nuts too, usually from the bottom up/underneath though.
That way the underneath flange allows more torque on the bolt screwed into it.
I cut off the barbs when using T-nuts thru thin metal, it's better than tapping a hole.

And it is much easier to use a piece of threaded rod and a nut instead of a bolt that needs to be an exact length.
T-nuts under every piece of threaded rod here, and coupling nuts that can be tightened more without stripping too.

A bonus is other stuff can be screwed into the coupling nut like a power check mirror mount, etc.

.

 

[MauriceSam]

My vibratory tumblers have a simple wing nut, washer and 1/4"-20 threaded rod holding the lid against the bowl. That works OK, but I found it often loosens up while tumbling.
View attachment 1094847



Rather than over-tightening the lid and potentially stressing or warping the lid, I installed a stop using an upside down 1/4"-20 T-nut on top of a standard nut (I happened to use a square nut) and tightened them against each other. I positioned the nut assembly so that the lid was under slight tension when the wing nut is tightened down. Now I can tighten the wing nut as much as needed while not over-flexing the lid, and it doesn't vibrate loose even after running for hours.
View attachment 1094848

I just put a rubber fender washer under the metal fender washer that the wing nut screws down on. It keeps the wing nut from loosening and quiets down the noise of the metal washer

 

[MauriceSam]

I sleeved a measured piece of 1/4 inch fuel line over the the threaded rod.

Same difference.....

View attachment 1094902

I did the same thing. It also keeps brass from getting scratched by threads of rod

 

[MauriceSam]

I'm an old fashion sort of guy so I still use a long rod to measure the cartridge-over-all-length (COAL) of a bullet touching the lands. I use to use a cleaning rod & mark with tape until I found these 32" bamboo skewers at Walmart. They are in the sporting goods department along with the camping gear. On an empty chamber with bolt closed, slip skewer from the muzzle all the way in until it touches the bolt face. Using a razor blade, scribe a mark on the skewer. Next drop your favorite bullet into the chamber & seat it gently against the riflings. Run the skewer in again until it just touches the bullet tip & mark again. Using a caliper, the distance between the 2 marks is the COAL. Play with your seating depth from there to get your best accuracy. Of course you can use a cartridge seated to that COAL to then measure the Base-to-Ogive (BTO) for your rifle.

The skewers are $.98/dozen & reuseable.
View attachment 1046344
View attachment 1046345

I took an aluminum (or brass) rod that fits down the barrel and use two collars that will slide up/down the rod. The collars have set screws. Run rod to bolt face and secure collar at muzzle, remove rod, install another collar and re-install rod down barrel until it touches tip of bullet that has been inserted into chamber end. I use a pencil with eraser touching base of bullet until I get light feel into rifling, secure collar, remove and take outside measurement of both collars, then subtract width of top collar to get max coal with that bullet touching lands.

 

[MauriceSam]

When doing load development I like to use heavy card stock and shoot-n-c 1” dots.

In order to keep my rows straight I’ll fold the paper as shown. A lot quicker than trying to use a ruler.

View attachment 1003004

View attachment 1003005

I use a spirit level to make sure it’s plumb when I hang it. That’s important when using the OCW (OCD? )method as you’re looking for group center deviation from your point of aim

I use cereal boxes for this (use front and back pieces) then staple my copy paper targets to it to keep holes clean through paper. Easy to store and free. I also use plumb bob when aligning targets on holder to keep/check alignment of crosshairs in scope.

 

[Bobaloo22]

I made this powder drop stand so that I could use it now and I’ll buy a “real” one when I can.