what do you lubricate your firearms with!?

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Right now I just use RemOil but before I read this I was actually thinking of using regular motor oil. I see 10W30, 20W50, and maybe some others. Do you guys suggest a heavier or lighter oil? And, where does this oil work best? Like on a AR just the BCG area? And on bolt actions the bolt and such?
 
I clean with Hoppes # 9 then lube with Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50.

100% synthetic motorcycle formulation retains max detergent compounds that have been EPAd out of the automotive versions and 20-50 stays where I put it.

Works in my ARs, 1911, H&K P-7, S&W revolvers and mod. 41, Colt revolver, Sako bolt, ULA bolt, Anschutz bolt, Ruger Revolver n 10-22, AKs, SKS, Mauser bolt, and in the piston chamber of my Beeman R-10 spring air rifle it gives less dieseling and slightly higher velocity compared to Beeman's chamber oil.

Been using this stuff for years in and on my guns with no complaints.

I'm particularly fond of it in ARs. The direct impingement gas system really eats up lube. M-1 V-Twin keeps the bolt carrier group wet for far more rounds than Breakfree and makes clean up much easier by keeping the carbon deposits soft.

Not only do I love how it works on guns I shoot, I also like how if lube up a gun and put it away for 7-12 months, its not bone dry when I take it out.

I know that some people will coat the outside of the gun with product A, lube all the internals with product B except for the slide rails that get grease C. Unfortunately, I am to riddled with ADD to remember all of these steps so I just lube all moving parts and wipe down the exteriors with the above M-1.

At $5.00 per quart how can you go wrong?
 
It all depends what the flavor the month is. Yes, I am a Lubaholic and whenever I find something new, I have to get it.

So, EEzox, Sentry, Weapon Shield, Militec, Slipstream, Gunzilla, TW25, etc
 
CLP for my AR, Tetra gun grease and hoppe's gun oil for my Glock. Going to start using the CLP for the Glock as well. Pretty good stuff IMHO.
 
Anyone ever tried Slick 50.? I put some in my Jeep while doing an oil change. "Slick" is right. That stuff is super slick and is supposed to stick well. I wish I would have drained the last few drops out and tried it.
 
I've never used Slick 50 but did use 30w engine oil mixed 50/50 with STP oil treatment. It stays where you put it. I don't remember why I quit using it.
 
Corrosion-x, as a lube & protectant it can't be beat. Plus it doesn't smell bad & a little goes a long way.
 
I used to use Remoil, but it goes away before too long, too runny, I use Hoppe's Elite, with "Thin-coat" technology, literally leaves a really thin coat, doesn't run everywhere like Rem oil, for any gun you care about, I would reccomend Hoppe's Elite, five bucks at Wally World for a 2 oz bottle, but it goes farther than you would think.
 
smokeyandthebandit05: said:
Right now I just use RemOil but before I read this I was actually thinking of using regular motor oil. I see 10W30, 20W50, and maybe some others. Do you guys suggest a heavier or lighter oil? And, where does this oil work best? Like on a AR just the BCG area? And on bolt actions the bolt and such?

What steven58 said. :)

Been using M1 20w50VTWIN on all of my firearms (AKs, bolt actions, Glocks, HKs, S&Ws, Ruger MKIIs, you name it) for better than fourteen years. No problems, no corrosion, incredibly smooth operation, no discernable wear in many cases and easy clean-up thanks to the dispersant/detergency add pack.

Here you go, pick your poison-

http://www.stoppingpower.net/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16727

Pick the viscosity and temperature range that works for you. Many different brands, lots of choices and none of 'em wrong.
 
Personally i use Break Free CLP, and have never had a problem with it. I have heard of people using graphite before but I have not given this a try.
 
Although I have had no personal experience with this, I have heard that graphite can have a severe destructive reaction with certain aluminum alloys.
Therefore, graphite is specifically cautioned against as an AR lube.

Can anyone with a better education on the subject confirm or deny this?
 
Mobil 1 10w-30
Remoil
Eezox

Each has been used with very satisfactory results.
 
I think this was addressed, what could you use, in a worse case scenario. Good Quality engine oil. A quart would last you a long time, if you couldn't get to better quality gun cleaning solvents/lubricants.
 
Vaseline. Yes, booty-lube. It actually breaks up the buildup on the bolt, and all you need is a thin layer. You can put it on your barrel to keep the water from rusting it as well. The walgreens brand works just as well, too.
 
USDA H1 rated Mineral Oil, USP is clear, colorless, odorless, tasteless and nontoxic.
It is used as a base in formulating medicines and for lubricating food processing machinery in conditions in which "incidental contact with food is possible." Outers Honing Oil is one commonly available food grade mineral oil, or your can buy mineral oil, USP from any pharmacy. It is particularly effective in protecting iron bullet moulds from rust, and sublimes away into a smoky gas without leaving any residue on the mold which would impair casting.

Food grade H1 rated grease is also available, manufactured from pure USP mineral with a calcium hydroxy stearate thickener. Amoco FG was the particular brand I bought 20 years ago and which am still using, because a pound lasts a long time. Any food service supply house or the W.W. Grainger catalog can locate USDA H1 rated grease in pound cartridges used for charging grease guns. They cost only a few bucks.

H1 rated food grease provides good corrosion protection, because it is intended to resist hot water wash-out, steam and salt spray. Its four-ball wear scar results are comparable to good lithium wheel bearing grease and is suitable for use on ferrous or nonferrous parts, brass, aluminum, plastics, stainless steel, even wooden rollers!

I was introduced to "food grease" by the late Harry J. Archer, a clandestine services officer. Para-militaries in remote regions need lubricants which keep their equipment working in hot-wet, jungle environments, which have no tell-tale odor which would alert an enemy passing only a few feet away. Long range patrols may have to operate for weeks in hostile environments where potable water is scarce and troops will not be able to bathe frequently.
 
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