What gunsmithing or repairs have you done today

[stonebuster]

I am thinking you probably could have put an .003 or even an .004 in there. I am a rank amateur but put shims equeal to the endshake in my Model 28. My effort is described here.

I figured it was easier to add another shim if it wasn't enough than have to fish one out again that was too thick.

 

[a5werkes]

I have been fascinated by the 4-blade pattern on Remington magazine cap screws. The cap slots are 0.085" - 0.0900".

I have fabricated leather lined vise-grip and have the Proto polymer insert pliers to avoid marring the cap on tough ones; never get as much torque with the pliers and the vise-grips can actually slightly deform the cap into an oblong ellipse (happened on a Browning A-5).
Just replaced the inserts on the polymer, the cap knurling will chew them up.

I always imagined that the Factory has / had a special driver to remove difficult ones sent-in to their repair shop. I emailed Remington a few years ago and inquired of the customer service rep IF any of the old shop Masters in the shop knew of such a device, a few days later the response was "no". For the task, I had already fabricated a 1" wide flat blade from a spade bit (have a whole set of long & short ones).

Finally, got around to making a tool in the shop today. Used 6061 Aluminum 1" round stock turned to diameter on the lathe; used 1/2" square end mill for 0.085" blades; center drilled 0.200" for central clearance where blade corners meet. Center drilled and tapped opposite end for 3/8"-16 hex head tool drive function. Dremel chamfered the sharp blade edges. Plan on chamfering the driver end on the lathe tomorrow, for a more finished appearance.

 

[a5werkes]

........

 

[Col. Harrumph]

Well yesterday I finally figured out how to put a PPK slide back together. I guess that's kinda gunsmith-ish.

 

[AzShooter1]

........View attachment 1189060View attachment 1189061View attachment 1189062View attachment 1189063

That's phenomenal.

 

[AzShooter1]

Gathered parts for my new 10/22 build. My receiver came in today, a blem from S&P along with the mounting screws for the barrel. Ordered a KIDD Trigger Kit. Using a MagPul Stock and an 8 X 34 Simmons Scope. Have the 20 inch Clark Barrel and I'm good to go.

I'll be working on it this weekend. One of the first things to do is to clean everything with acetone then use some Blue Loctite for the scope mount and let it sit for at least 24 hours. I'll put a BX trigger kit into it in the meantime just to test it. Once the Kidd Kit comes in I'll take the old trigger assembly from my stock 10/22 and set it up.

 

[a5werkes]

About 10 years ago I authored a technical Manual based on the .380 Manurhrin PPK .

 

[a5werkes]

This is the setup I intend on deploying the magazine cap tool. Gently tap the close-fit tool into the cap.
A 1950's Remington 11-48 Sportsman, 16 ga.

 

[carbine85]

I just remembered that I accidentally doubled an order for an AR lower receiver a few years ago and packed it up when we moved. Now I'm in the process of digging through parts to see what I come up with. My spare parts will determine the outcome.

 

[a5werkes]

A little chamfer for less utilitarian appearing tool. Done.

 

[troy fairweather]

Picked up a synthetic post 64 classic stock to fit to my 3006 pre 64 model 70 super grade, it's being a little of a pain more so from old bedding in the stock and it doesn't seem like the action is sitting to high in the stock at the front. The part under the recoil lug for the receiver flat in the stock seems like it was bedded higher and I'm debating to nock off the 1/16" I think it needs. The front of the receiver looks about right in the stock but the barrel looks like it's up a little higher. There's also about the same 1/16" space on the bottom, I'm waiting for a floorplate and some other parts I should get it figured out then. Bugs me to the trigger guard around the rear hole sticks up some since the grip must be shaped a little different. After a bunch of bedding it should workout for a good working deer rifle.

 

[Savage30L]

I found a use for those high-profile scope mounts I took off my Marlin 1894. I got a Picatinny mount, and put them on my Remington 760, along with a spare Nikon ProStaff fixed 4X scope. This gun was in near-new condition when I got it, but the scope that came with it was worthless. So I removed it and put on what you see here. I don't know if I'll end up keeping this scope on the gun, but for now, it will suffice. Once our cold snap lifts, I'll bore-sight it, and then take it to the range.

(I used a holstered Walther PP to prop it up....)

 

[Savage30L]

About 10 years ago I authored a technical Manual based on the .380 Manurhrin PPK .

View attachment 1189087View attachment 1189088View attachment 1189089View attachment 1189093View attachment 1189094View attachment 1189095View attachment 1189096View attachment 1189097View attachment 1189098View attachment 1189099

Good job! Your illustrations are excellent.

 

[troy fairweather]

I found a use for those high-profile scope mounts I took off my Marlin 1894. I got a Picatinny mount, and put them on my Remington 760, along with a spare Nikon ProStaff fixed 4X scope. This gun was in near-new condition when I got it, but the scope that came with it was worthless. So I removed it and put on what you see here. I don't know if I'll end up keeping this scope on the gun, but for now, it will suffice. Once our cold snap lifts, I'll bore-sight it, and then take it to the range.

(I used a holstered Walther PP to prop it up....)

Hard to find the 4x nikons,

 

[a5werkes]

Amateur tinkering in the shop today.

Mounting a NightForce Cosine Angle Indicator on Knights SR-25 14.5" SBR.
There is not much linear rail real estate under the magnification ring otherwise no need for this project, the next forward rail location cleared the scope ring, not the QD lever of the Spuhr mount. The outer diameter edge of the Angle mount was making contact with the knurled-lobulated magnification ring surface. I needed to reduce, actually thin the inner surface of the mount O.D.; used a 3/16" 60 deg chamfer in combination with 3/16" sq. end mill to provide clearance between the two surfaces. Aluma-black application and calibration of angle indicator with a rail positioned digital angle meter. Done.

As an aside, milled a 1/16" index mark on the 7.62 bolt cam pivot pin to re-install in the same orientation every time.

 

[a5werkes]

.......

 

[AzShooter1]

Well, the KIDD trigger kit showed up so I tried to install it in my aluminum housing for my 10/22. Unfortunately the kit is for the polymer housing and just didn't fit so I had to send it back. I ordered a Powers Custom trigger kit that fits the aluminum housing and had no troubles with the installation.

Trigger pull is now at 2.5 pounds and feels nice. I put this trigger in my Steel Challenge gun where it came from and put the black trigger assembly in my new plinker with the Clark barrel. I stoned all the surfaces and polished everything with my Dremel. When I reassembled the I put in a Volquartsen Hammer kit and the trigger pull is also set at just over 2.5 pounds.

 

[troy fairweather]

Still messing with the stock on the winchester, I'd like to get the action back more in the stock but make more problems so I may just bed it where it seems to fit nice and straight. For some reason when I slide the action back it tips up and makes the action rock, I can't see where or why it's doing that so it may have to stay the 1/8" forward.you can see the picture that shows the tang how its forward some. The stock is thicker from top to bottom by about 1/16" so I'll have to address that somehow since the tabs on the trigger guard for floorplate hinge aren't clamping down on the box mag like it should.

 

[AzShooter1]

Today I did the Bobby Pin trick on my 10/22. I've been playing with it trying to get a good trigger pull and I installed a Powers Custom Trigger Kit. That got me down to a nice average of just under 3 pounds. Then I took out the trigger return and spring and plunger and replaced it with a bobby pin. Sounds funny but it works. My trigger pull dropped down to a pound and an half.

It's totally safe, I bounced the gun on the ground a few times and it never fired. Can't wait to take it to the range and see what she can do. Next I'm going to do the same thing to my Steel Challenge rifle. It's already at 2.5 pounds.


Here's a picture showing where the bobby pin goes.

 

[a5werkes]

Tinkering in the shop today. I guess I could have purchased a round die holder for lathe tail stock but decided to fabricate one to my
own liking. Started with 3" 6061 aluminum round stock, turned down one end to a diameter for 1" collete 5C to be used in a square colette holding fixture to tap / drill 5/16-18" and cross-drill 3/8" for Tommy bar. These larger gunsmith size dies are used for creating or cleaning up muzzle / suppressor barrel threads.

 

[AzShooter1]

Worked on the trigger with the Bobby Pin trick today after a disappointing day at the range. The pin's pressure was too light and I had no trigger reset. I reformed the spring and now, with 1 pound 12 ounces of trigger pull everything is OK.

I also did my target 10/22. I used a sear spring as a return spring and it didn't work. Gave me a nice trigger pull buy no reset. The new spring works like a charm.

Good thing there are no matches this weekend. Weather was perfect today but with all the rain we've been getting the range is flooded, targets can't be placed in the mud so match cancelled.

 

[a5werkes]

Worked on the trigger with the Bobby Pin trick today a

What is the trick ? and how is the Pin modified and installed ? thanks

 

[AzShooter1]

The trick is to replace the return spring with a Bobby Pin. It will drop your trigger pull down about another pound.

Go to RimfireCentral.com and look it up. They explain it better than I can. Here's a picture of what it looks like.

 

[a5werkes]

Do they come in Pink ? and are the Pins make of real spring steel or chinesium prone to short term fatigue failure?

 

[AzShooter1]

Yes they come in pink. They are made of real spring steel but you still have to watch for fatigue. If that happens the trigger will not reset and you have to do it by hand.

Here's a diagram of what you need to do.