What handgun for vehicle?

[John Joseph]

For shooting vehicles, the 357 Magnum and .38 Super have been getting the job done since the 1930's.
Oh.
I wouldn't leave any firearm in a car as I wouldn't want to give a car thief an extra bonus.
My handgun stays with me.

In another life with the SO, I routinely kept an AR in the trunk of my own car. I never was comfortable with that idea, even though it was the Sheriff's..

 

[CraigC]

Been keeping polymer autos in my vehicles for over 20yrs.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Summer temperatures where I live are frequently in the mid 90s, and in a parked vehicle, much higher. Humidity is high and often near 100%.

With that in mind, what handgun would be most suitable for storage inside a parked vehicle? Heat variation, humidity, corrosion resistance, and above all else, reliability are key issues to be considered. I am looking for the gun least likely to suffer from extreme heat and humidity, least likely to have its functional reliability affected, and least likely to corrode.

Would a Glock be a good choice? In general I would say yes. It is unlikely to corrode, and would probably be reliable even after prolonged storage. But what happens to polymer when it is subjected daily to extreme variations in temperature? I don't know how hot it gets inside a car parked in 95 degree heat, but it is very hot.

Would a stainless steel revolver be a better choice?

Or an all metal frame semi-auto like a Sig 229 or 1911? Seems like they would more likely to corrode than a Glock.

Also what lubricant should I use for a handgun subjected to extreme heat and humidity?

How bout a Kel-tec folding carbine? When stowed, they are small enough to fit in many consoles or gloveboxes, use common mags, are available in .40 for good penetration on other vehicles, and are cheap enough that you won't fret too hard if it does get stolen. I'd spray it with a liberal dose of silicone, wipe off the excess and say have a nice day.
My glove box is tiny, so I go with a rough but ready Sig P6, with 3 extra mags, for a total of 33 rounds, in a clip-on holster; should be sufficient to allow me too fight my way to the Taurus CT9 carbine in the trunk if SRHTF, but if I was starting from scratch, I'd seriously consider the Keltec.
Other trunk items include 2 spare 25-round mags for the carbine, 100 rounds of boxed ammo, a KaBar, an old Mag Light (do they still make those?), an entrenching tool (just cuz- its got an interchangeable axe head too), a flare gun with 5 reloads, Gerber multi-tool, 30' of paracord, zip-ties, a boonie, cami jacket, spare socks, 1st aid kit, and a surplus GI backpack to hold it all.
Have considered an AR for a trunk gun, but I'm willing to accept the tactical limitations of the 9mm so I can feed both from the same ammo supply.
Around here, the only dangerous predators are two-legged, ranges are short, and civil disorder would be the main threat.

 

[C0untZer0]

I use the Gumcreek holster also. Just the way my model car is - the holster can actually be mounted under the dash just to the right of my right knee. It is primarily for car jackings, and I load my B6P with Snap Caps and practice drawing, flipping the safety off and pulling the trigger from the seated position. It's not easy, that's why I keep practicing. I keep doing it over and over until I can do it right a hundred times in a row. Over the course of 2 weeks without practicing, the next time I do practice, I'll either hit the muzzle on the steering wheel or pull the trigger while the safety is still on. From a deployment standpoint, I'd be way better off with an HK P7M8, but that gun is now worth more than the car I'm driving... And the B6P holds 19+1 rounds, so there is that when compared to me beloved HK.

I keep a knife on me, a knife clipped to the overhead visor and a knife in the glove compartment. If I end up upside down with a stuck seat-belt, hopefully I'll be able to access one of those knives to cut my way out. I keep a multi tool and a mini tool kit in the glove compartment. The mini tool kit has mini vice-grips, a 4" adjustable wrench, a 4" saw handle that takes reciprocating saw blades, a Chapman ratchet set with common screwdriver bits - including Torx bits for my knives, and the kit has other stuff:

 

[C0untZer0]

That whole kit is only 5½ " by 2" and you can put in it your back pocket (its bulky and uncomfortable to sit down, but you can carry it in your back pocket)

 

[C0untZer0]

I also keep a Get-Home-Bag in the trunk of my car, with a 9mm Taurus Millennium G2 PT111.

The GHB also has a Camelback hydration pack, some rations, wet weather gear, a SOG Powerplay multitool (got it on sale), a first aid kit - and other stuff, your typical GHB. If I had to leave my vehicle, I'd take the B6P with me - all my stuff is 9mm, but the primary function of the B6P, positioned at my right knee while I'm driving, is for self defense against car-jacking.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

I also keep a Get-Home-Bag in the trunk of my car, with a 9mm Taurus Millennium G2 PT111.

The GHB also has a Camelback hydration pack, some rations, wet weather gear, a SOG Powerplay multitool (got it on sale), a first aid kit - and other stuff, your typical GHB. If I had to leave my vehicle, I'd take the B6P with me - all my stuff is 9mm, but the primary function of the B6P, positioned at my right knee while I'm driving, is for self defense against car-jacking.

Unfortunately, where I live, the law is badly worded- "Firearms must be securely encased, or otherwise inaccessible, to the vehicles occupants." And securely encased is defined as "Snapped in a holster, guncase, or a locking glovebox, trunk, or console." I've known friends who have been stopped with a pistol, snapped in a holster, sitting right next to them, and the LEO checked their papers and said Have A Nice Day....but we've also known folks who were badly hastled for the same thing before being let go- one unfortunate buddy was told that his holster was found unsnapped under the seat and was arrested and charged- he's still denying it and fighting the court battle. I keep mine snapped up in the glovebox so, in theory , I have two layers of protection under the law- but it does slow down access a bit.

 

[C0untZer0]

I'm only able to have a loaded firearm in the passenger compartment because of the Illinois Firearms Concealed Carry Act, which requires a carry license. If I didn't have a CCL any firearm in the passenger compartment would have to be unloaded and completely enclosed in a case.

 

[H3NT3]

For about eight years, give or take a year from that, I had a Nagant revolver in my glove box. I live in Missouri which gets to experience high humidity hot summer days, especially in June & July.
Never a rust problem. Never a failure to fire when socializing with friends presented an opportunity to shoot. Was cleaned same day once shot every time. Never oiled the gun externals upon cleaning.
Only special treatment it got was the holster it came with.
I've never been the kind fortunate enough to always have a shady/covered place to park my car - always full sun.
I share this to show you don't need to go strictly stainless steel; Blued is an option.

 

[RetiredUSNChief]

Regardless of what you get, remember that no firearm is "maintenance free" when it comes to proper lubrication and cleanliness. Lubricants can be adversely affected by long term exposure to temperature extremes (mostly a loss of some/all lubricating properties as the lubricant diminishes under high temperatures). Also, even stainless guns have some steel components which may corrode.

On the subject of stainless...stainless steels are "corrosion resistant steels", not "corrosion proof steels".

 

[.308 Norma]

Also, even stainless guns have some steel components which may corrode.

I'm pretty sure that even the barrels and frames of so called "stainless guns" are not pure, austenitic, stainless steel. That's why magnets stick to them.

 

[.308 Norma]

I also like the idea of that handgun being one I'm willing to replace, because cars are easy to break into.

I feel the same way - the gun I keep in my truck is of neither great sentimental nor monetary value to me. Yet the truth is, as I've posted before, the last time one of my vehicles was broken into was in Southern California, and the thieves were trying to steal my 8-track! If you're old enough to remember what an 8-track is, you know it's been awhile since one of my vehicles was broken into.
P.S. I never had one, but I even remember 4-tracks.

 

[BSA1]

140 degrees isn't hot to you? You must live in Hades?

For human comfort anything above 100 degrees is plenty hot enough for me. 80's and 90's is just normal summer outdoor working temperatures. Drink plenty of water, take breaks in the shade and wear a hat and clothing to protect from sunburn. in fact I spent most of today on a riding lawnmower in full sunshine, 84 degree temperature and 56% humidity. I suppose I could lay some of my polymer frame guns on the sidewalk and wait for them to melt.

140 degrees will melt my Hersey's chocolate bar but we are talking about on heat effects "plastic" (polymer) pistol. Based on my personal experience 140 degrees will not have any effect on it. However the metal slide and parts may be too hot to handle without gloves. The factory "plastic" grips on my Beretta's are just fine when my gun is too hot to touch.

Give the gun manufacturers credit when they build their guns. A polymer frame that melts when it gets to 140 degrees will not stay on the market very long and there will be lot of reports of it happening on THR forum.

 

[Balrog]

For human comfort anything above 100 degrees is plenty hot enough for me. 80's and 90's is just normal summer outdoor working temperatures. Drink plenty of water, take breaks in the shade and wear a hat and clothing to protect from sunburn. in fact I spent most of today on a riding lawnmower in full sunshine, 84 degree temperature and 56% humidity. I suppose I could lay some of my polymer frame guns on the sidewalk and wait for them to melt.

140 degrees will melt my Hersey's chocolate bar but we are talking about on heat effects "plastic" (polymer) pistol. Based on my personal experience 140 degrees will not have any effect on it. However the metal slide and parts may be too hot to handle without gloves. The factory "plastic" grips on my Beretta's are just fine when my gun is too hot to touch.

Give the gun manufacturers credit when they build their guns. A polymer frame that melts when it gets to 140 degrees will not stay on the market very long and there will be lot of reports of it happening on THR forum.

You must live in a cool place. Where I am, the temperature was 93 degrees with 77% humidity. I realize the gun isn't going to melt at 140 degrees. My question is, what is the effect of heat variations up to 140-150 degrees day in and day out, with drops at night to upper 70s, on polymer after say 10 or 15 years. The daily heating and cooling for a prolonged period is what I am asking about. I know plastic parts in car interiors tend to become brittle and break over time. I realize that gun polymer is probably better, but I do not know to what extent it would be affected the same way. Does the daily expansion and contraction of the molecular architecture of polymer cause deterioration over time? Perhaps this is a question best asked on a materials engineering forum and not a gun forum. Its probably not reasonable for an average shooter to know the answer.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

You must live in a cool place. Where I am, the temperature was 93 degrees with 77% humidity. I realize the gun isn't going to melt at 140 degrees. My question is, what is the effect of heat variations up to 140-150 degrees day in and day out, with drops at night to upper 70s, on polymer after say 10 or 15 years. The daily heating and cooling for a prolonged period is what I am asking about. I know plastic parts in car interiors tend to become brittle and break over time. I realize that gun polymer is probably better, but I do not know to what extent it would be affected the same way. Does the daily expansion and contraction of the molecular architecture of polymer cause deterioration over time? Perhaps this is a question best asked on a materials engineering forum and not a gun forum. Its probably not reasonable for an average shooter to know the answer.

There has been extensive debate in the thread "Glocks: 129 years in the future." Some of the contributors on there are waaaay smarter than me.

 

[22-rimfire]

Colt Detective Special is my choice for a truck gun. Bought it pretty much specifically for this purpose. It is in a holster, so I can carry it if I choose to.

 

[.308 Norma]

I realize the gun isn't going to melt at 140 degrees. My question is, what is the effect of heat variations up to 140-150 degrees day in and day out, with drops at night to upper 70s, on polymer after say 10 or 15 years.

While I have no doubt that the interior temperatures in an automobile could reach 140-150 degrees, and even higher on hot summer days, just for the sake of clarification, the highest outside daytime temperature ever recorded anywhere in the US was only 134 degrees F. And that was in Death Valley in 1913.

https://www.thoughtco.com/highest-temperature-ever-recorded-1435172

 

[Balrog]

You must live in a cool place. Where I am, the temperature was 93 degrees with 77% humidity. I realize the gun isn't going to melt at 140 degrees. My question is, what is the effect of heat variations up to 140-150 degrees day in and day out, with drops at night to upper 70s, on polymer after say 10 or 15 years. The daily heating and cooling for a prolonged period is what I am asking about. Does the daily I know plastic parts in car interiors tend to become brittle and break over time. I realize that gun polymer is probably better, but I do not know to what extent it would be affected the same way.

While I have no doubt that the interior temperatures in an automobile could reach 140-150 degrees, and even higher on hot summer days, just for the sake of clarification, the highest outside daytime temperature ever recorded anywhere in the US was only 134 degrees F. And that was in Death Valley in 1913.

https://www.thoughtco.com/highest-temperature-ever-recorded-1435172

The gun probably will never be in Death Valley or anywhere else in California for that matter, but it will probably see 140 plus temperatures in a car daily.

 

[C0untZer0]

I was at NTC in the Mojave Desert in 1986 and I came across an OP where soldiers had left behind some C-rats. They must have been left sitting there in the sun for a long time because we had switched over to MREs for at least a year. The cans were too hot to hold with bare hands, but I opened up the cracker tin and the crackers were fine

At the time, I was carrying a M1911A1 made by Singer

 

[BSA1]

"My question is, what is the effect of heat variations up to 140-150 degrees day in and day out, with drops at night to upper 70s, on polymer after say 10 or 15 years. The daily heating and cooling for a prolonged period is what I am asking about. I know plastic parts in car interiors tend to become brittle and break over time. I realize that gun polymer is probably better, but I do not know to what extent it would be affected the same way. Does the daily expansion and contraction of the molecular architecture of polymer cause deterioration over time?"

I don't know why you are comparing the "plastic" used in automobiles to the polymer used in firearms. I rarely see cracked dashes in modern vehicles. My 21 year old Ford Ranger has sat outside everyday with the temperature outside the truck ranging from 110 to -10 below and none thing has cracked including the armrests.

Anyway there is a polymer frame handgun that has been tested the temperature ranges you are concerned about for at least the last 35 years...

GLOCK.

This far exceeds your 10 -15 year time span. While I am not a Glock fan which means I don't spend much time reading Glock Discussion Forums I have never read anything on any of the Forums I do read about the polymer frames becoming brittle, cracking or deforming in the temperatures you described. As has already been pointed out it is UV rays that also causes damage.

A visit to GlockTalk would probably answer all of your questions.

I am very confident that if Glock frames had any of this problems it would be all over the Discussion Forums.

 

[Balrog]

"My question is, what is the effect of heat variations up to 140-150 degrees day in and day out, with drops at night to upper 70s, on polymer after say 10 or 15 years. The daily heating and cooling for a prolonged period is what I am asking about. I know plastic parts in car interiors tend to become brittle and break over time. I realize that gun polymer is probably better, but I do not know to what extent it would be affected the same way. Does the daily expansion and contraction of the molecular architecture of polymer cause deterioration over time?"

I don't know why you are comparing the "plastic" used in automobiles to the polymer used in firearms. I rarely see cracked dashes in modern vehicles. My 21 year old Ford Ranger has sat outside everyday with the temperature outside the truck ranging from 110 to -10 below and none thing has cracked including the armrests.

.

Right. But after sitting in the hot sun at 140 degrees, heating and cooling day in and day for years, your dashboard doesn't have to take the mechanical stress that a handgun frame does. From reading another thread, Glock armorers are now being taught to check for brittleness of the frames on older model Glocks, and if brittleness is found, it is recommended the frame be replaced. I would be concerned that repetitive heating and cooling may accelerate the degradation of the pliability of the polymer, and could contribute to shorter frame life.

I think I will just stick with an all steel Ruger GP 100, though I don't really like DA revolvers very much and would rather shoot a Glock. But in this setting, I am just not sure polymer is the way to go.

 

[C0untZer0]

You can get all steel CZ and CZ clones

 

[Ironicaintit]

I opted for a stainless Ruger Speed Six. The wife and I carpool, and that is her preferred sideram. (Actually, she prefers the SP101, but I'd rather have that extra round) I'm not too shabby with it myself! It gets inspected, cleaned and lubed every so often, and the ammo gets rotated regularly during practice.

I've found that a lockbox secured to the floor makes heat pretty much a non-issue.

 

[FL-NC]

That Glock will be fine. Its much hotter in iraq, afghanistan, etc. than where you live this time of year, and they do fine over there.

 

[MTMilitiaman]

I also carry a Glock. And carrying in and around vehicles is one of the few times I feel like the 10mm has an appreciable advantage over other service calibers. The same ability to drive a 200 gr bullet through the shoulder plate of a large hog or black bear also gives it pretty good penetration through windshields and auto bodies.