What is all the fuss about powder coating your bullets?

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Funny you should mention the .300 BlackOut. Here is a bullet designed for that and the Whisper (NOE .311-247) that I am casting for use in my .30-06 for deer hunting. My mould is a 2 cavity that produces one HP. My intent is to use about 20.0gr of 4227 for a velocity of 1400-1500fps, and with an SD as high as this bad boy has, I figure I won't really need to drive it very fast. It will be non-PC of course, with lube courtesy of White Label (BAC).

Don

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Lead bullets, in my opinion are all that I will need. However, I hate that they are dirty, they gt everything dirty with lube when I am loading and they smoke. The Blue Bullets I bought have none of those issues. I think the coated bullets also look better, in addition they don't have to be oversized or the correct hardness like lead. If I were casting it wouldn't be an issue but I don't have time to cast or a good source of lead.

Oh, one other point, I can drive them a bit faster than lead and not worry about alloy or anything else. I don't get much time to shoot and taking one more step out of the "load development" of lead is nice. Find a good velocity that is accurate and not worry about any leading at all.
 
I'm following up on those theads to see if the "higher velocity" claim holds any water (concerning accuracy, not fouling). And to see if they eliminate gas tube fouling of a semiauto rifle.


From my experience it does not do much, if anything, to increase accuracy at higher velocities/pressure. It does, however, give you the option of testing faster loads without leading. For example, I have 44 mag lead SWCs that are the most accurate at around 1500fps but lead the crap out of my barrels with the 45/45/10 lube at those speeds. I have to back them down to around 1200fps to prevent it. Those same bullets start turning into flyers too much above 1500fps.

I know a lot of people would chime in at this point and say that I am doing something wrong... they are not wrong. I am using a lube that is not sufficient in any quantity for this hot of a load. I know there are folks who have luck with much hotter loads in their guns with 45/45/10 but it has never worked for me.

With the exact same bullet (same alloy, same mold, etc) I can drive them as fast as I want without leading. They still start flying at much of 1500fps but it allows me to get to that max pressure/velocity without exceeding the limitations of my lube.

The reduced smoke issue is gospel to me. I shoot revolvers most of the time and there is very little to no smoke compared to the same loads (same powder, etc) with oily lubes.

All of this is Just my .02. I can't tell you about gas tube fouling since the only semi-auto rifles I shoot regularly are handgun calibers.
 
"But what do I know, I'm just one of those young (47) newcomers wasting my time on worthless "solution looking for a problem" newfangled lubes and ruining castboolits for everybody"


HAHAHAHAHHAA Best use of sarcasm I've seen today...
 
I scored a freebie used Kenmore range from a friend, so I decided to experiment with powdercoating bullets and small Jeep & Harley parts. Bought a static spray kit from Horror Freight, and some red and black powder.

Tried the dry tumble method with red, it worked but they weren't "pretty". Then tried the spray method and OMG, those were beautiful in comparison! And a helluva lot easier than I was expecting.

Haven't got to shoot any yet, but I've several boxes of .45acp 230gr. LRN's ready to try in my 1911's. Need to do that. Bullets sized and loaded up very easy, just like any others.

Haven't tried any Jeep or bike parts yet, the HF black is matte, I need a semi-gloss. I'll try it first on something unimportant, maybe a pipe fitting or such.
 
What school allowed this project.
Bet that it was not in Oregon.

Utah. The last time he made it to the regional science fair (he accidentally didn't try this year) with a reloading project he was right next to a muzzleloader project. There are still free states.
 
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