What lube do you like for the pivots on your folding knives?

[Zaydok Allen]

I have recently started buying a little bit nicer knives than I was formerly accustomed. I now am wondering about lubricating the pivots on some flippers. I thought originally I would just drop a little lubricating gun oil in, but then I considered how little I knew about quality knives a few months ago, and how much I'm likely still very ignorant about. So I thought I'd ask.

What products have a good service record for not ruining finishes, not drying up and getting sticky if the knife is left idle for awhile, and for good performance overall?

 

[Boattale]

Mobil 1.

 

[crestoncowboy]

I use rem oil (in the dropper bottle) on everything from 10 dollar knives I sharpen for others up to my nicer automatics. Motor oil works too but can stain jeans. It's truly amazing to rebuild a 200k mile engine and feel the crank and rod bearings. Even dino oil keeps them remarkably smooth and slick. I figure if anything works to keep a gun working it works for the incredibly low demand of a knife. others may disagree

 

[ApacheCoTodd]

Grape-seed oil.

We always have some in the kitchen so I keep a little cup of it around with toothpicks in it.

Also, G-96.

Todd.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

What do you gents think about Hoppe's lubricating oil? I have a bunch on hand. Only worry is that it's known to dry up and make things gummy. I can always clean it out though, and I find knives fun to fidget with so I doubt they will sit around for too long.

 

[whughett]

The old reliable been around since he’s was a corporal, 3 in 1 oil.

 

[crestoncowboy]

do you gents think about Hoppe's lubricating oil?

I've used it too. Whichever gun oil in a dropper I have at the time, so long as clear. And 3 in 1 I have used as well. I worry more about staining than gumming. If it doesnt gum up in a gun with Lint and powder residue then it will never be a problem in a knife. Even in automatics I've never had an oiled knife give me a problem. Now old rusty beater knives in our tractors and farm trucks are a different story. I sharpen knives for quite a few people (on a worksharp usually) and no one has had any issue.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

I've used it too. Whichever gun oil in a dropper I have at the time, so long as clear. And 3 in 1 I have used as well. I worry more about staining than gumming. If it doesnt gum up in a gun with Lint and powder residue then it will never be a problem in a knife. Even in automatics I've never had an oiled knife give me a problem. Now old rusty beater knives in our tractors and farm trucks are a different story. I sharpen knives for quite a few people (on a worksharp usually) and no one has had any issue.

I see a Work Sharp Ken Onion edition in my future.

 

[crestoncowboy]

I see a Work Sharp Ken Onion edition one my future.

That's what I have. Was on sale at cabelas online for black friday (which made it the same price as normal on amazon) and I had enough points to buy it. As far as I can tell though, the normal one would be just as good and cheaper to buy belts for since they are a more common size. I like mine though. Gives a great convex edge very fast. Great for anything but a tanto blade. (It will un-tanto a tanto blade rather well if you aren't careful) maybe 3 minutes to shaving sharp on a badly abused blade... and most that people bring me to sharpen are abused..... and resemble a flat screwdriver

 

[hso]

Depending upon the make/model a knife may not need lubrication.

Teflon or phosphor bronze don't need lubrication. Bearings are generally better off without lubrication.

So, unless the manufacturer calls for lubrication just keep it clean and dry.

 

[Corpral_Agarn]

That's what I have. Was on sale at cabelas online for black friday (which made it the same price as normal on amazon) and I had enough points to buy it. As far as I can tell though, the normal one would be just as good and cheaper to buy belts for since they are a more common size. I like mine though. Gives a great convex edge very fast. Great for anything but a tanto blade. (It will un-tanto a tanto blade rather well if you aren't careful) maybe 3 minutes to shaving sharp on a badly abused blade... and most that people bring me to sharpen are abused..... and resemble a flat screwdriver

Does it do a recurve blade okay?

Like a benchmade 710?

 

[RA40]

Manufacturers and makers vary so you can experiment or call them for suggestions. The flippers often have bearings so those don't really need any lubrication. If they get gunked up, disassembly to clean would be my suggestion.

When I assemble my traditional liner locks I use Rem oil for break-in because I have plenty of it. After the brass bushings are worn in lubrication isn't needed and I wipe it off. The phosphor bronze bushings are a nicer surface and those don't need lubrication either.

 

[crestoncowboy]

Does it do a recurve blade okay?

Yeah. And with patience it can do a tanto I'm sure but it's hard not to take the heel off. I personally wouldn't recommend it for a tanto at this point but I've only used it a little. It Does serrated edges as good as anything I've found. As long as they arent completly beat its sufficient.


Those were my Guinea pigs. Old abused knives. Id not use a great knife to learn on. The top right Kershaw was a badly abused Tanto and had the tip broke off. I had it usable in 5 minutes.

The SOG beside it also had a screwdriver tip. Lol. Hence the very fine point.
The Wenoka diving knife is a recurve. Granted they aren't great metal since corrosion resistance is more important than edge holding for a saltwater diving tool. The camillus US will shave you as well. So will my machete on my atv. The great thing is that big hunting knives take no longer than small ones really. It also takes absolutely no skill and would be difficult to screw up.

 

[herrwalther]

I have been using Smith's Honing oil for years when I sharpen my knives that need it. A drop or so gets in the pivot and smoothes it out until the next sharpening. Has always worked for me.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

Depending upon the make/model a knife may not need lubrication.

Teflon or phosphor bronze don't need lubrication. Bushings are generally better off without lubrication.

So, unless the manufacturer calls for lubrication just keep it clean and dry.

I fell into some good deals last week, so...... I did some irresponsible spending. But, they were good enough deals I didn’t want to pass them up. Special pricing on one and gift cards used on another. So I got significant discounts on both.


These are both on ball bearings as I’m sure you are aware. They are very smooth. So lubrication may not be needed regularly.

ZT0609 and 0456. I really like both of these knives.

 

[earlthegoat2]

The oil I have around most of time is sewing machine oil. Plus it comes in a dropper bottle.

Pretty sure though, if it is a knife that actually needs oil, any petroleum based LIGHT oil will work.

 

[sparkyv]

What do you gents think about Hoppe's lubricating oil? I have a bunch on hand. Only worry is that it's known to dry up and make things gummy. I can always clean it out though, and I find knives fun to fidget with so I doubt they will sit around for too long.

This is what I use. Doesn't ever gum up.
Nice ZTs, BTW.

 

[Boattale]

I wasn't joking with the Mobil 1 comment. I've got an old trigger pump oil can with the flex tip. Mobil 1 5w30 is what stays in it for anything that needs lube.

 

[JohnKSa]

Wax Bicycle Chain Lube. The liquid kind that evaporates and leaves wax in place. Works much better than anything else I've tried.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

Wax Bicycle Chain Lube. The liquid kind that evaporates and leaves wax in place. Works much better than anything else I've tried.

Didn't know there was such a product. But I haven't lubed a bike chain in 50+ years, and jeans didn't show the stains.

I have one knife lubed with Balistol, my others get BreakFree. But any oil that doesn't get gummy will work.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I have recently started buying a little bit nicer knives than I was formerly accustomed. I now am wondering about lubricating the pivots on some flippers. I thought originally I would just drop a little lubricating gun oil in, but then I considered how little I knew about quality knives a few months ago, and how much I'm likely still very ignorant about. So I thought I'd ask.

What products have a good service record for not ruining finishes, not drying up and getting sticky if the knife is left idle for awhile, and for good performance overall?

I'm a firm believer in the concept that oil is oil. Having said that this is cheaper per ounce thanmost gun oils and it doesn't have benzene's which are carcinogens in it like motor oils do.



I bought this bottle in probably 2005 and I still probably have 3 oz left

 

[hso]

Didn't know there was such a product

White Lightning is the one I use.

 

[hso]

known to dry up and make things gummy

You answered your own question since gummy is fine for candy but not for knives.

 

[lemaymiami]

I've done a bunch of reel repair work over the years (some of my customers brought me reels by the five gallon bucket full -and all of them used in the salt...). I learned over the years to avoid 3 in 1 oil like the plague since the stuff turns into varnish over time. I've been able to restore function on some reels -just by using solvent to remove that nasty old oil that turned into glue...

That said, for my folders I always use a good quality gun oil (Break Free, Gunslik, and others) for the moving parts. I only own blades with standard type pivots (with one exception, a full sized Griptilian that's never actually been used yet - it's a backup blade for my skiff..). For the blade surfaces I simply use an oily rag that's got some semi-synthetic outboard oil on it - then carefully remove any residue with a dry cloth...

Like most, I started out with 3 in 1 oil -since that's what my Dad had on hand when I was a kid... I learned over many years not to use the stuff at all - and recommend against it to all of my reel repair customers... It's great stuff when new - but leave it in place for a few years and you'll see what I'm talking about as it dries out and turns into the opposite of lubrication...

 

[Fiv3r]

I dont usually oil my folders beyond what gets down in the pivot when I clean the blade.

Like others have said, some dont require much. The captured baring systems like to be clean, but they usually move well on their own. PB washers usually dont require much either, but some like a bit. My Chris Reeve Inkosi has wide cut outs in the PB called grease pockets. The knife comes with a little tube and a small dollop in each pocket while you have the knife apart should hold it over for a good long while.

On knives that are pressed and riveted together I obviously dont go to such lengths. Part of the fun of a 450 dollar knife is pride of self maintenance.