What powder for .25 acp?

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I remember reading somewhere that you can just take a case that your loading for and file the case down until you get the correct weight charge for the particular powder and just dip the powder and throw them in, and solder a copper or iron wire to the filed case and essentially you now have a known weight by volume and just keep throwing them without weighing it.(of course check to see if the weight and technique you use is consistent…)
Actually, you will not have a "known weight". You will be using a set volume, Yes. But the powder packed into that volume will not be the same time after time.

► The method will be faster than a "trickler", but that's about all. You could use the scoop to pre-measure and place power on the scale, but you'll still want the scale in the process.

► The problem is the same for everyone.... trying to turn a measured volume into a precise weight. The act of "scooping" still varies the Density. And powder density is still your biggest foe. In other words... Did you skim the surface when the powder source was full, or did you turn the handle vertical and dig deep into the pile ? Scooping works great for shotgun loads where plus or minus 0.2gr is no big deal. But if your 25cal load varies by the same amount, you're better off going back to the fixed volume powder measure.

Hope this helps.
 
I have followed threads discussing low charge weight loads for years.

Many have found that using a dipper made from something like a 22 LR case trimmed to the correct length can produce charges with adequately low weight variations. The important things are a repeatable routine, a relatively small diameter dipper and use of a ball powder or small grain pistol powder.

Again, trying for very low charge variations by percent has typically been proven to be a waste of time. This is especially true for pocket pistols. Even with what would typically be consider high SDs on velocity, many of these guns shoot just fine. Remember that we are not trying for bench rest performance here. As long as the low charge weight end of the range cycles the action and the high charge weight end of the range is safe, fun shooting can be achieved. Only if relying on these reloads for self defense would I think about weighing each charge (and even then, just for the small batches to be carried for this use).

On another note, good luck to the OP on finding happiness reloading the 25 ACP. When I was looking for a low cost per round gun to build, the 32 S&W (sometimes called 32 short) and 25 ACP did not pass my "big enough for normal fingers" criteria. While reloading, I can handle a 32 ACP case pretty good. However, I came to the conclusion that anything smaller would be more fumbling than desired.
 
People actually handload 25 ACP? I'll be darned. My first thought was WHY?
 
Why not? If you shoot 25 ACP at all, you find that ammo is almost impossible to fine, is very expensive per round IF you do find any, and I enjoy reloading. I consider reloading a separate hobby in itself and enjoy it. :)

32/25 ACP has been rare and expensive for years because not many people actively shoot it. Down on that end of things, rimfire will suffice and is probably more effective. Nothing wrong with the hand loading hobby aspect of it, though, if you actively shoot it. I've never seen anybody down at the range burning up the 25. I never imagined that. I now consider myself informed.

If someone were to give me a 7.65mm Walther PPK, I might consider loading for that, if I could even find brass.
 
32/25 ACP has been rare and expensive for years because not many people actively shoot it. Down on that end of things, rimfire will suffice and is probably more effective. Nothing wrong with the hand loading hobby aspect of it, though, if you actively shoot it. I've never seen anybody down at the range burning up the 25. I never imagined that. I now consider myself informed.

If someone were to give me a 7.65mm Walther PPK, I might consider loading for that, if I could even find brass.
Every once in a while I get in a mood and tear heck out of .32ACP through my CZ-70. It's fun to shoot and very mild mannered. That happens about every red moon... ;)
 
I have a 32 Ortgies (pre war). German and a heck of a pocket pistol. I shoot it every 15 years or so.
The shop down the road has an Ortgies in .25ACP. It's about the size of a .32, by my eye. They're asking $200 (after tax and FDLE fee) so I passed. May have to go grab it. I have a LOT of .25ACP hanging around from decades past.
 
The shop down the road has an Ortgies in .25ACP. It's about the size of a .32, by my eye. They're asking $200 (after tax and FDLE fee) so I passed. May have to go grab it. I have a LOT of .25ACP hanging around from decades past.

The Ortgies 25 is smaller. They also made the gun in 9mm Kurz (380 ACP), but you don't see them very often. All of the Ortgies pattern pistols, made by Deutsche Werke, Erfurt, Germany are stout, wellmade pistols. The desirable grips are wood with the Sphinx emblem. If the magazine is original, it will have the caliber and the sphinx on the bottom. They are usually pretty reasonably priced because they aren't from a big name like Mauser or Walther.

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I went to the range yesterday, and while there, I test fired a 25 auto that my dad left me. I fired 4 shots, all were quite accurate, but lost all 4 cases in the 100's and 100's of 22 long rifle cases:(
I have a couple dozen cases left, but l'm going to have to find more. If anyone knows of a source of 25ACP brass, please PM me.
 
So I cleaned, sized, and sorted all of my .25 acp brass. I notice that the brass length varies quite a bit even within the same headstamp. Now, I know that consistency is key and I also know that some folks don’t trim their pistol brass because it doesn’t “grow” much and or improve any more accuracy. But I feel the need to if I am going to keep things consistent since it is going to be my first time. What y’all think? To trim or not to trim?
 
I finally received the correct part for my reloading dies and loaded up some 25 ACP, Bear Creek lead round nose, 55 grain, over 1.1 grains of W231.
They shot fantastic. I honestly didn't have any problems loading them, although the components are very tiny. I like loading 45 ACP much better:p
 
I finally received the correct part for my reloading dies and loaded up some 25 ACP, Bear Creek lead round nose, 55 grain, over 1.1 grains of W231.
They shot fantastic. I honestly didn't have any problems loading them, although the components are very tiny. I like loading 45 ACP much better:p
Hey now, that’s good news!
 
Okay so with the reloading components slowly returning…I wanted to start reloading with .25 acp to start off. I’ve never reloaded before but have been reading my manuals, watching youtube, read “how to reload” manual, got Lee Precision 2019 Revised manual and Lyman 50th Edition manual. Got me press, got me dies, got me 50 grains magtech bullets, got some range once fired brass. I’ve basically got all the equipment to start reloading. What I need to know is what powder should I get start out with reloading .25 acp? What powders do you guys think I should start out with? My guns for testing are going to be my Beretta 950 BS and Astra Cub .25 acp. I know there’s “bulk” powder and then there’s those powder with large granules or flakes for a cartridge this tiny. What powder would be best for the .25 acp? I also acquired the Lee Microdisk, I see that it is discontinued.

.25 ACP loves fast powers. Look for Lovex D032 (Shooter's World Clean Shot), AA#2, TiteGroup etc. Of the above, Clean Shot is my go to, because it burns sooooo clean, and meter's like silk. It's very close to AA2 (if not quite exactly the same). TiteGroup is very very good, and fills the case nicely, but does not meter quite accurately enough for .25 ACP on a progressive. The Clean Shot or AA2 will probably work best with your Lee Microdisk.
 
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