Which gun oil?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I have emptied a couple cans of Breakfree CLP in the last 40 years, but I have a bucket of partially used products including a couple bottles that came with Benelli and Franchi shotguns. I hate to throw useful stuff away, but the Frog Lube hit the bin.

A drop of oil in a knife or pliers joint does wonders, but there are many drops in a bottle! I agree with the others who maintain that as long as it is judiciously applied when and where needed, just about any oil will do the job.
 
I used to use WD-40 for years a long time ago. Never any problems. Now I use Rem-oil, Hoppe's No.9 and I have a very old little bottle of Outers that I like a lot. Three little bottles of gun oil will last me for years. Probably never need to buy any again. I'm careful not to over oil. IMO no need to.
 
One of the things I've found with most modern lubricating oils is the packaging makes it darned near impossible to just get "a drop". I've never cared for aerosols for that reason, and the best bottle I remember using is those little RemOil vials, but I stopped using Remoil as a lubricant 15 years ago. So I picked up a couple of these little bottles, and they're really great at letting you dispense exactly how much you need and not a drop more. I keep 10w30 in one and Eezox in the other.

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Squeeze-Bottles-Stainless-Applicators/dp/B07943VXRR

41m9zEkbX-L._SL1066_.jpg
 
"I am glad to see the fad for hating on WD-40 appears to be fading. It certainly is no miracle oil, but it's not the evil fluid of death it has been made out to be."
As mentioned above WD-40 really caused problems by it's misuse. It works fine as a topical but keep it out of places it can gum up. Problem was it was sold as a fix all and guys started to just squirt a bunch in the innards instead of proper cleaning. I remember being told "Nah you don't have to pull it apart and clean in there. Just soak the insides down and it will be fine." Well after a couple seasons of the once or twice a year hunter things stopped working. Clicks and misfires. Feed mechanisms started jamming. Gas systems just seized up. Central NY used to be loyal Remington Country so there were a lot of their guns in use.. I live 60 miles from the factory and I was at a site for work yesterday right next to the factory. Guys would spray down the gas systems on the 1100s and 740 family of rifles with WD40 and it would turn to varnish gumming them up. This went on for decades from the 60s on up. Most gunshops did a brisk business early season cleaning out varnished guns. With all the other good products out there WD isn't the first used anymore. But you still find varnished up guns that haven't been used in years.

I was squadded one year at Camp Perry with a Dupont Triboloist. He had a PhD in the discipline. His comment on WD40 was that it was made so an evaporative light oil solvent would deposit a silicone layer. Given time, that silicone layer will gum up mechanisms.

If you are really, really concerned about exterior rust, a very simple and cheap form of protection is paint. The British painted the surface of these rifles:

oeY86w7.jpg

Kum5tTT.jpg

eCxz5r1.jpg

Paint is surprisingly durable and also very good at preventing rust. It is also easy to apply. I re painted another of my No 4 MK2's, and I redid the muzzle of that Savage No 4 with black spray paint. Of course the interior of the barrel is not to be painted, but a light layer of oil, with some sort of muzzle protector, should work nicely. I read comments about infantry using condoms over the muzzles, to keep the rain out! Maybe saran wrap and a rubber band will work just as well.

Motor oils are lubricanting oils, not rust preventative oils. Of course motor oil on the surface is a better barrier than nothing but it does not contain additives which block water/oxygen migration. Rust preventatives do contain those additives. But it is my opinion, in something that will be handled, oils and greases wipe off with use, leaving bare metal.
 
Regarding the folks who have taken issue with my post claiming that WD-40 is not "evil fluid of death", I agree that repeatedly hosing down the inside of your gun with it is not a good plan. I did not even know that was a part of the discussion. I personally will continue to use it to remove powder fouling and fingerprints from the surface of my guns with the assumption that it will still work as well for me as it has during the past 30 years.
 
So I picked up a couple of these little bottles
Those are the same exact ones I bought from Amazon. I use them for bore cleaners, as well as oils. You're right, they make it so much easier to apply things where you want them to go, and saves product too.
 
How much oil do y'all use when you clean a gun? It sounds like some of you are using it by the gallon each year, but maybe that is just perception. I don't bathe guns in oil. I just try to wet the metal parts, assemble, then wipe clean with a cotton cloth. My safe is indoors with the A/C so maybe that

It doesn't take that much IMO. I have 4 and 6 ounce bottles of Slick 2000 EWL and M-Pro7 that I have been using for a while. Compared to what I spend on ammo, what I have spent on gun oils and cleaners is insignificant.
Dude!
The need for chasing magic bullets is actually a curse, which a long ago Chief of the Chawanakee tribe cast on armed settlers . Home made concoctions requiring a mixture whale oil, Doritos grease and Carpathian goat snot get ten extra points :rofl:
 
One of the things I've found with most modern lubricating oils is the packaging makes it darned near impossible to just get "a drop". I've never cared for aerosols for that reason, and the best bottle I remember using is those little RemOil vials, but I stopped using Remoil as a lubricant 15 years ago. So I picked up a couple of these little bottles, and they're really great at letting you dispense exactly how much you need and not a drop more. I keep 10w30 in one and Eezox in the other.

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Squeeze-Bottles-Stainless-Applicators/dp/B07943VXRR
That is one reason I like the M-Pro7 stuff. The bottles I bought have an applicator tip that makes that easier. I am looking for it on Amazon and I don't see the same style bottles now.

https://www.amazon.com/M-Pro-LPX-Gu...child=1&keywords=M-pro7&qid=1580826002&sr=8-6
 
I would also add something similar to what slamfire said. Most gun oils contain rust preventative additives that protect the metal. I don't know what random motor oil has. It probably has something, but it is not designed for guns. My Dad has a old Ruger 22 pistol. We shot that pistol all the time growing up. I remember cleaning it once as an adult. We used to just add a little Hoppes oil when we went shooting to make sure it was operating smoothly. Looking at the pistol now, it still doesn't have any rust.

But that is just my story. If what you are doing works for you and your guns stay in good shape, keep doing it I guess.
 
I believe these are the bottles linked earlier https://smile.amazon.com/Plastic-Sq...XTGCSZ6DRGH&psc=1&refRID=09E9DE20WPFNQVJ6TBDB
Because I overdo everything, I ordered these: https://smile.amazon.com/AGEOMET-Pl...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GSY2Q5HKGYV9V6PAR5K2
and because I liked the idea of a more secure cap for travel, I ended up with these: https://smile.amazon.com/Dropper-El...6FYVVY264VC&psc=1&refRID=KF9GE93BJ6FYVVY264VC
These bulk buys amuse my friends, especially when I pass along the extras for their benefit.
 
One of the things I've found with most modern lubricating oils is the packaging makes it darned near impossible to just get "a drop". I've never cared for aerosols for that reason, and the best bottle I remember using is those little RemOil vials, but I stopped using Remoil as a lubricant 15 years ago. So I picked up a couple of these little bottles, and they're really great at letting you dispense exactly how much you need and not a drop more. I keep 10w30 in one and Eezox in the other.

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Squeeze-Bottles-Stainless-Applicators/dp/B07943VXRR

View attachment 889204

Pro Shot 1-Step CLP can be bought in little bottles like that. I have a few and refill out of the gallons of the stuff I bought at auction.
 
Agreed, most oil is far more effectively--and sparingly--applied by the drop where needed.
That's one reason Breakfree CLP isn't my go-to for everything. The bottle I have, and all the ones I've seen locally, have a nice tiny hole in the applicator... which is a 3/8" wide disc, raised slightly at the edges.
That will put CLP everywhere around where I want it but never onto slide rails or in their grooves, and it draws out the drop I want and ten more to make a mess.
Got a few bottles with tiny tips, and suddenly it works a lot better in the L and P departments.
 
I lube EEsox in bore Mobil 1 on side rails of autos and SS revolvers any moving parts. Where ever hands touch my guns I wipe down with a LAMBS WOOL bonnet bought in Lowes or Home Depot (buffing type) cut into a 3 inch square and satuarated with Birchwood Casey product called RUST INHIBITING GREASE----LABEL SAY RIG. LONG TERM STORED GUNS GET A MORE LIBRAL APPLICATION. My carry, target and hunting guns get a quick wipe down after I use them. My guns never rust even when hunting in rain or snow. Wipe down with paper towel to dry and relube after temperature is stablilized. In cold weather gun stays outside in truck, case open. My SS plastic stocked gun is my rain rifle that way water under barrel between the stock is as much of a concern. When barrel is removed from stock I apply RIG to the bottom of barrel or action.... Modify to your weather conditions. An old target shooter got me onto RIG about 45 yrs. ago. Metal on all my guns look like new except for blue worn off from handling. afish4570
 
STOS will be your new BEST friend.

Stops current rust. Prevents new. Helps to prevent scratches.

Made by IOSSO
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top