What are some of the things that are done to a "better" 1911 to make them functionally smoother and more reliable that are not done to a "cheaper" one.
A common cost savings to many cheap 1911s is using cast or MIM parts in place for forge or tool steel. This isn't a knock on MIM or cast parts...let's not start that on this thread...it is just a way of saving money. I can't think of a 1911 priced under $3k that doesn't have cast parts.
Another common area is the type of steel and the tempering applied to the extractor...to say nothing of the lack of tuning that some have when they ship out. I've even seen extractors that were just press fitted into the frame
The ones that are easy to spot are:
1. Slide to frame fit...frame, slide, extractor, ejector all being flush at the rear
2. Vertical play in the trigger...there shouldn't be any
3. Beavertail grip safety to frame fit. The beavertail's top surface should be flush with the arc of the frame when at rest and the bottom surface should bee flush with the arc of the frame when depressed...I saw this causing a lot of bleeding at a recent class I attended (coupled with incorrectly blended thumb safeties)
4. Sight fit to slide...there shouldn't be any light showing around the rear sight body. Ideally the base of the front sight should be contoured with the top of the slide.
The most amazing I've ever heard....I haven't seen this...from a creditable source, was a breach face that was vertical